[Harry Meatmotor]

actually, Dkel – it’s becoming the opposite case.

Replacing inexpensive chainrings is becoming increasingly difficult due to (lack of) parts availability. Sure, you could throw 3 new chainrings @ $15-30 a pop, but, for the most part, it’s easier nowadays to track down a complete Tourney crankset (which are not junk; they’re heavy, but they shift great and are plenty durable). Only if you’re trying to match exact tooth counts across all rings would I recommend replacing individual rings. If you don’t really care whether your middle ring is 34 or 36 tooth, I’d just go Tourney. It’s shockingly inexpensive to replace the entire crankset.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@lordofthemark 178687 wrote:

We do not seem to have a consensus here. I guess maybe try the crank arm first (I think the bike room has one of those taper things) and then go ahead and break the chain – using pliers if I can find them in our general purpose tool chest, or the regular chain break tool otherwise (and worry about the rivet later). BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

regardless of consensus, my opinion as a mechanic with 20+ years experience is that crank arm will likely need to be removed to un-entangle the chain. using a square taper crank arm puller is not without its pitfalls; it is very easy to cross-thread the tool into the crank arm, and if the puller strips the threads on the crank arm, you’re hosed (unless you have a Hozan JIS thread cutter/helicoil kit).

The chain, although it’s worn, doesn’t need to be broken. I would inspect it for bent links, however. I would also inspect the chain rings for bent teeth, and readjust the front derailleur after re-installing the crank arm.

Edit: If you’re uncomfortable with either removing a crank arm or breaking a chain, you should take your bike to a shop.

[Harry Meatmotor]

From the pictures it looks like you shouldn’t need to break the chain. Just pull the crank arm, however, that’ll require a square-taper crank arm puller:

CCP-22

[Harry Meatmotor]

(patiently waiting for the “Sheldon Brown sez 7spd was the pinnacle of human ingenuity!” post…)

[Harry Meatmotor]

WaPo wrote:

The Class 3 has a larger motor that allows speeds up to 28 mph — and should only be ridden on streets, advocates say.

Advocates haven’t visited this thread, apparently.

[Harry Meatmotor]

For me at least, I enjoy keeping on top of new materials/manufacturing techniques or interesting technologies. It’s pretty easy and inexpensive to get 80% of the ride quality of a top shelf bike, but that last 20% performance/ride feel is where things start getting expensive, and doing a lot of research to make sure your purchase matches your preferences is (to me) fun.

The fact that I race a decent bit changes my calculus a little. If i were just riding gran fondos, shop rides, and commuting, I wouldn’t consider something like a carbon aero handlebar. But, in a race, there are measurable gains that I’m happy to take, especially with a shop/bike “sponsorship”. It would be hard for me to recommend to anyone *not* racing to consider an aero carbon handlebar.

The two places where you can make the most cost effective upgrades on a bike are where the bike touches the ground, and where you touch the bike. So, for me, trying out something like new tires (usually once a season) is not really expensive, and I make it a point to try out different manufacturers and tire designs. The third most cost effective upgrade is (if you bought a bike straight off the shop floor) wheels. Dkel, you know this, but a great set of hand built wheels makes a huge difference in ride feel/perceived benefit for much less than a new gruppo.

My final point pertains to the whole N+1 notion. I usually buy a new bike every year-to-two-years. I make an effort to make sure each bike is set up almost identical fit-wise, but I do try to “play” with different component manufacturers or technologies, i.e., no bike will have the same gruppo, or wheelset, or frame material/construction style. I like being a bit of a bike maven, and I very much enjoy sharing my experiences with this BB, and with my customers at the shop. If I have customers that complain about creaky BB/PF30 bottom brackets, I prefer to own one so I can have firsthand experience with the standard.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@dkel 177085 wrote:

True, but…bikes, you know?

But you’ve already got cool bikes! Tho, one more can’t hurt!

[Harry Meatmotor]

@hozn 177067 wrote:

I am enjoying my 38mm Barlow Pass. They are fast tires (certainly feel faster than the Schwalbe G-One speed or the Roubaix Pro 2BR), especially at low speeds. I am just using standard casing — and have no burning desire to go to the extralite. No flats yet — knocking on wood. Though a couple of punctures (e.g. a thorn in sidewall) that were sealed by sealant. I have ridden these on a fair bit of gravel now; I think I am brave enough to even make these gravel race tires, if the course isn’t too rocky (e.g. not HBR, nor Iron Cross).

Compass makes a 44mm option. Can you fit 44mm under fenders on that bike ?!

Did you do that paint job? It is very bling — and very distinctive.

The brakes are a nice complement too. Too bad Paul doesn’t make those in flat-mount (yet).

Actually, I am really surprised you didn’t do the new Campy hydro.

My midlife crisis bike might be a steel road disc bike, I think — Campy hydro. Maybe even CK hubs

I think 38 plus fender is as big as I can go, 44 w/o fender. But very interested to try some compass tires. You know I’m a huge fan of not-very-durable-but-super-comfy cotton tires like the Turbo Cottons. I picked up the 28mm Hell of the North version for this racing season. 28 is the new 25!

Paint is stock from Spec – it’s crazy; really well executed off-white to black fade, with a reflective clear coat. See pic.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17735[/ATTACH]

I was tempted to go H11 disc, but pricing is not very competitive. You’re basically stuck paying Super Record prices for Athena-level shifter guts. I did grab the H11 rotors, with the new rounded edges, kind of a neat trick to idiot-proof the rotors. I’ve only ridden it enough to bed the pads, but Campy Chorus is noticeably more Campy-feeling than the Athena. Athena shifts more like 105/Ultegra – Chorus more like/better than Dura Ace mechanical.

[Harry Meatmotor]

Cool – I think I’m going to grab something in the 40-44mm range, probably compass, eventually. I do intend to not try to beat the p*ss out of this bike like i did my last commuter bike. Also trying the new cool sh*t for long wearing chain/lube: KMC DLC + Silca NFS lube. Also, the reflective clear coat on the frame is insane!

[Harry Meatmotor]

NBD!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17722[/ATTACH]

Spec Sequoia Pro Module, Roval Fusee, Roubaix Pro 700×32, Campy Potenza (52-36, 11-28), Paul’s Klampers, Zipp cockpit (waiting on stem…). PDW fenders coming at some point.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17723[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17724[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17725[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17726[/ATTACH]

[Harry Meatmotor]

@sjclaeys 175050 wrote:

This reminds me of a conversation that I had yesterday with someone who works with the lithium ion battery industry. As of now, there is no way to recycle lithium ion batteries, so all of those batteries full of nasty chemicals are going into the waste stream. So how are e-bikes environmentally friendly again?

They’re more environmentally friendly because they got all the soccer-moms out of their SUVs and successfully increased ridership numbers for PAC meetings!!

(for about 15 minutes)

[Harry Meatmotor]

One too many spilled cups of hot purple goop?

[Harry Meatmotor]

@drevil 172732 wrote:

Can a few people just volunteer to police and zap the spam when it comes in? I can be one of those people.

Whoever’s in charge, feel free to ping me…

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This is kinda what I was thinking too.

[Harry Meatmotor]

ProTip from my GF:

check out deals on junior-sized gear. She picked up a $300 (retail) pair of hardshell insulated riding pants, junior/boys size XL, for like $75. She’s 5’9″-ish and they fit her fine.

[Harry Meatmotor]

Oh! and we love beer and pie.

[Author]

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