Daenaerys Targaryen the breaker of chains

[n18]

You can buy a second master link for $5(Links: Performance, REI, Spokes(Not in stock?)). REI has been offering for months at least 10% off drivetrain components, so you can buy 3 chains, or 2 master links and a chain to qualify. This is in addition to the 10% store credit, or the equivalent of 19% discount.

Also, this tool both opens and closes master links. I bought it after hurting my hand while using the pliers method to open chain links.

[n18]

@lordofthemark 178687 wrote:

BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

Recently, I discovered that my chain is stretched beyond 0.5% and 0.75% on the chain indicator tool. It had 1600 Miles and 6 months on it and I oiled it maybe 3 times.

[hozn]

I’d actually make the counterpoint that this chain has too many miles on it to be worth changing. You’ll likely need a new cassette if you put a new chain on now. (Or maybe it won’t make much difference, but either way, the new chain isn’t going to do anything for the life of your cassette.) So, keep the 3k-miles chain and run it down with the cassette. You should get another 2-3k miles out of both of them, I’d think.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@lordofthemark 178687 wrote:

We do not seem to have a consensus here. I guess maybe try the crank arm first (I think the bike room has one of those taper things) and then go ahead and break the chain – using pliers if I can find them in our general purpose tool chest, or the regular chain break tool otherwise (and worry about the rivet later). BTW, the chain has 3000 miles on it.

regardless of consensus, my opinion as a mechanic with 20+ years experience is that crank arm will likely need to be removed to un-entangle the chain. using a square taper crank arm puller is not without its pitfalls; it is very easy to cross-thread the tool into the crank arm, and if the puller strips the threads on the crank arm, you’re hosed (unless you have a Hozan JIS thread cutter/helicoil kit).

The chain, although it’s worn, doesn’t need to be broken. I would inspect it for bent links, however. I would also inspect the chain rings for bent teeth, and readjust the front derailleur after re-installing the crank arm.

Edit: If you’re uncomfortable with either removing a crank arm or breaking a chain, you should take your bike to a shop.

[lordofthemark]

Step one. Check the chain.

It is stretched.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17986[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17987[/ATTACH]

Oddly though, the tool goes in more easily at the 1.0 mark, than at the .75 mark. Could that be because the tool is bent?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17988[/ATTACH]

[lordofthemark]

So I need a new chain. The best outcome is I remove the chain (quite confident doing that with the standard chain breaking tool, since I will replace the chain anyway). Leave bike in the bike room, go to a bike shop (or REI) by car, get a new chain, and replace the chain myself (never done that, but the logical next step in my evolution as newbie amateur bike mechanic)

But. Everyone says with a worn chain, you need to check the cassette and crankset for wear.

So. Next step, look at the cassette and crankset for wear.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17989[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17990[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17991[/ATTACH]

The crankset is the one that was on the bike when I received it from Karen, and I have ridden it almost 6,000 miles since then. Not sure how many miles Karen had on the crankset. When I replaced the cassette last, I kept the crankset, in part because the least worn ring was the middle one, which is the one I usually ride (and almost always commute) in. Karen and I appear to have different riding styles, which turns out to have been good. As it happens, this Saturday I was riding in high gear on the crankset instead of middle gear (to bomb down George Mason, for my own meaning of bombing) and then, I guess, for whatever reason, went into low gear on the crankset going up the grade on North Hampton – which may have had an impact on what happened to the chain, I guess?

So I am resigned to a new crankset.

The cassette was new with the chain, so just under 3,200 miles. I would be somewhat more disappointed in needing a new cassette, especially if its my own fault for not checking the chain more often. OTOH I do shift the cassette a lot.

I MIGHT consider replacing the cassette myself, that’s easier than replacing the crankset, right? But I don’t think I want to mess with the crankset. I think I will need to take the bike into a shop, but would appreciate any advice (consensus preferred of course) before I go.

[lordofthemark]

BTW we do have one of those crank arm puller things in the bike room. I mean IF people think the cassette is still okay, and suggest I follow Hozn’s advice and keep this chain and run it down with the cassette, I suppose I could TRY removing the crankset myself. But I am nervous about doing it right, even supposing I am physically able to (haven’t tried yet, so not sure how physically hard it is)

[TwoWheelsDC]

@lordofthemark 178752 wrote:

So I need a new chain. The best outcome is I remove the chain (quite confident doing that with the standard chain breaking tool, since I will replace the chain anyway). Leave bike in the bike room, go to a bike shop (or REI) by car, get a new chain, and replace the chain myself (never done that, but the logical next step in my evolution as newbie amateur bike mechanic)

But. Everyone says with a worn chain, you need to check the cassette and crankset for wear.

So. Next step, look at the cassette and crankset for wear.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17989[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17990[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]17991[/ATTACH]

The crankset is the one that was on the bike when I received it from Karen, and I have ridden it almost 6,000 miles since then. Not sure how many miles Karen had on the crankset. When I replaced the cassette last, I kept the crankset, in part because the least worn ring was the middle one, which is the one I usually ride (and almost always commute) in. Karen and I appear to have different riding styles, which turns out to have been good. As it happens, this Saturday I was riding in high gear on the crankset instead of middle gear (to bomb down George Mason, for my own meaning of bombing) and then, I guess, for whatever reason, went into low gear on the crankset going up the grade on North Hampton – which may have had an impact on what happened to the chain, I guess?

So I am resigned to a new crankset.

The cassette was new with the chain, so just under 3,200 miles. I would be somewhat more disappointed in needing a new cassette, especially if its my own fault for not checking the chain more often. OTOH I do shift the cassette a lot.

I MIGHT consider replacing the cassette myself, that’s easier than replacing the crankset, right? But I don’t think I want to mess with the crankset. I think I will need to take the bike into a shop, but would appreciate any advice (consensus preferred of course) before I go.

Replacing a square taper crankset is super easy (replacing most cranks is easy). Takes maybe 5 minutes once you figure out how to use the crank puller, and assuming you have a torque wrench. If replacing a cassette is a 3 on the difficulty scale, the crank is a 3.5.

YouTube will teach you….

[n18]

The rear gears look worn to me. You need to determine if you have a cassette or freewheel. Here is a ParkTool page with video that helps, which also shows which lock ring tool that you need. Removing it is tough if you don’t have the right tools. If it’s a freewheel, the hardest part is removing the gears, I had to use a water pipe for leverage(Home depot sells 2 feet pre-cut segment, just make sure that you get one wide enough for whatever wrench you are using). Here is a YouTube video showing this method. Some use a vise, which works fine, I have seen bike shop use that method. If it’s a cassette, it is easy if you have a chain whip, here is a method by using an old chain if you don’t have a chain whip.

[lordofthemark]

Problem is, it’s past 2, if I try doing it myself now, I miss the chance to take it to Phoenix bikes if I can’t fix it. (Had to drive POTM somewhere). So I am go8ng to take it in.

Side benefit. QOTM: Most of your friends would just ride their other bike, right?

[dkel]

@lordofthemark 178752 wrote:

So I am resigned to a new crankset.

I think you mean new chainrings. You shouldn’t have to replace the cranks, just the sprockets that attach to the spider.

[DismalScientist]

Of course, often a set of chainrings cost more than a complete crankset.

[n18]

How to measure Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD) for chainrings: Link1, Link2

Chainrings ar REI, Performance Bike, Spokes.

If you need a new cassette, I had a good experience with Sunrace cassettes.

[dkel]

@DismalScientist 178783 wrote:

Of course, often a set of chainrings cost more than a complete crankset.

My very cursory research seems to indicate that you’d have to really move up in quality on the rings for them to oputprice a crankset. It’s not difficult to get quality rings for $15 each; it would be a piece of junk triple crankset that costs less than $45.

[Harry Meatmotor]

actually, Dkel – it’s becoming the opposite case.

Replacing inexpensive chainrings is becoming increasingly difficult due to (lack of) parts availability. Sure, you could throw 3 new chainrings @ $15-30 a pop, but, for the most part, it’s easier nowadays to track down a complete Tourney crankset (which are not junk; they’re heavy, but they shift great and are plenty durable). Only if you’re trying to match exact tooth counts across all rings would I recommend replacing individual rings. If you don’t really care whether your middle ring is 34 or 36 tooth, I’d just go Tourney. It’s shockingly inexpensive to replace the entire crankset.

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