Interesting bunch of criteria for your bike. Sounds like a fun project.
Disclaimer: I work in a local shop and I’m up to my elbows in this style of bike all day, every day.
A few things: Internal cable routing has a great aesthetic, but is often a pain when it comes to maintenance. A good bike shop can help with changing cables. Park tools makes a nice kit to make threading cables easier.
Threaded bottom brackets are my personal favorite. That comes from a guy who works 40-60 hours per week working on other people’s bikes. Press fit bottom brackets were developed to solve problems with carbon frames (You can’t thread into carbon and aluminum inserts are either heavy or fragile.) Press-fit bottom brackets on steel, ti or aluminum frames solve a problem that doesn’t exist and cause problems that shouldn’t exist. I attended a bike brand kick-off where the marketing wonk introduced the latest and greatest BB technology for non carbon frames…. it is the 68mm, English-threaded bottom bracket shell. WOOHOO! They’ve only been around for decades!
Tire clearance. The best and most capable studded tires for real winter riding with 700c wheels come in 35, 38 and 40mm sizes. If using serious studded tires is your goal, make sure you get a frame that can handle that size of tire with a little room so they don’t pack up too much. It is easy to have a giant ice ball that engulfs your front derailleur and prevents shifting.
One thing that I didn’t see you mention is geometry and ride quality. Before the advent of modern adventure/gravel bikes, we used cyclocross bikes for this kind of riding. Many folks still do with great success. CX bikes are really designed for CX racing… which is fast-paced and requires quite twitchy handling characteristics. Adventure/Gravel bikes are MUCH nicer to ride day in and day out. They usually have a little longer chainstay (5-10mm longer) to add a little stability, while keeping the front triangle steep to make it initiate turns nicely. They also often lower the bottom bracket a little. This lowers the center of gravity on the bike and adds a little stability without sacrificing agility and fun in the turns. Test ride a few! They’re worth it! They come in many flavors and frame materials ranging from stable… almost light-touring bikes to ones that are closer to a road geometry, but with disc brakes and extra tire clearance.
A few ideas:
Kona Rove (comes in aluminum, steel or titanium) and price ranges from $850-$5000
Jamis Renegade (available in aluminum, steel or carbon) and price ranges from $800-4300
Raleigh Willard, Tamland or Roker (aluminum, steel and carbon respectively) ranging in prices from $1300-$5000
Volagi Viaje (steel or ti) ranging in prices from $1800-$5000+
Surly Straggler (steel) at around $1800 or as a frameset to build as you like
Salsa Warbird (Aluminum or Carbon) with prices from $1600-4300
Salsa Vaya (steel or ti) — Originally designed as a light touring bike, but it makes a LOVELY all-rounder. Prices from $1500-$5000
Specialized makes the Diverge. Cannondale makes the Slate. I’m sure Trek, Giant and other big manufacturers make similar bikes.
These bikes, though designed for gravel roads and a little rougher riding make WONDERFUL bikes for every day use because they combine agility and a fun ride, with stability and comfort that makes the great for distance riding. Take a test ride!!!! These bikes all have their own character and feel to them.
Enjoy the discovery process with whatever bike you choose. Spend some time riding them. It is great to have such wonderful weather in which to test stuff out!
Pete
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