Does this bike exist?

[americancyclo]

@dplasters 129841 wrote:

I’ve been messing around with the idea of getting one of these fandangled multi-geared chain powered bikes. I want something that I can learn to maintain and do all the work myself over time though. Based on retrogrouch things I read and my own obsession with clean lines, I end up with the following criteria:

• Internal Cable Routing (me)
• Space for 32-35mm tires (smallest studded tires they make I believe?) (BAFS has a hold on me)
• BSA/ISO threaded bb (retrogrouch/buying a bunch of tools for the pressing process looks annoying)
• I’m indifferent to frame material (although lighter is nicer in my view)

So far my only option is Specialized. Which was surprising….

Anyone have other ideas? Or a magic way to get Canyon bikes into the USA?

Are you sure you can get a 32c tire on a Roubaix?

[mstone]

Yes, your insistence on internal cable routing eliminates almost everything in the wide tire/useful frame category. (If you want it, you want it, but it is kinda counter to the “make it simple and maintainable” philosophy. The fact that it exists at all is a testament to the fact that there’s a bike for everyone. )

[mstone]

@americancyclo 129843 wrote:

Are you sure you can get a 32c tire on a Roubaix?

Bigger question: can you get a 32c tire and packed snow on a Roubaix?

[americancyclo]

I max out around a 28c tire on my roubaix, and there’s no way I’d take that plastic bike out on trails where I might need studs. That’s what the 13yr old Cannondale MTB with 26×1.5 is for

[Raymo853]

@mstone 129844 wrote:

Yes, your insistence on internal cable routing eliminates almost everything in the wide tire/useful frame category. (If you want it, you want it, but it is kinda counter to the “make it simple and maintainable” philosophy. The fact that it exists at all is a testament to the fact that there’s a bike for everyone. )

I would advise you to stay away from internal cable routing. It is annoying and offers no better weather resistance than running full cable housing. There are many real good reasons to run full housing. The weather resistance, reduced cable friction, and lower housing/end system compression are so wonderful . The few minor negatives are: the weight (few grams), how unfashionable it is, how ugly zip ties holding the housing can be, NS empty normal cable stops can be sharp when not filled with cables.

That being said, I then recommend something like a Surly Straggler. Disc brakes, can handle 35 knobbies, no expensive, not wimpy.

[hozn]

You can get what you want in Chinese carbon — and probably thru-axle to boot. Probably ~$600 for the frameset? For example: http://www.miraclebikes.com/products/path0143/path0163/FirstLook-3A2015ThruAxleCyclocrossBikeNewestCycloc25052933/

[ATTACH=CONFIG]10258[/ATTACH]

Maybe one of the steel Cielo frames also fits the requirements.

Edit: nevermind, Cielo use a PF30.

Though I agree that internal routing is not a simplifying feature. I am not looking forward to when I have to change the housing on my road bike. I would suggest changing the requirement to having stops/guides that support full-housing runs — /that/ does simplify things and improve weatherability. Internal does look clean, though, and less gunk buildup under the downtube.

Personally, I would get the (titanium) Foundry Overland if I were looking for a new do-everything bike. The $2500 frameset isn’t cheap, though not crazy by ti standards. Am happy with my much-cheaper Habanero, but I had to dremel out my cable stops to run full-length housing and it doesn’t have a 44mm (or tapered) HT, so no tapered forks for me (almost all carbon disc brake forks are tapered).

Disc brake of course.

[dplasters]

@americancyclo 129843 wrote:

Are you sure you can get a 32c tire on a Roubaix?

the internet tells me yes on disc brake. no on rim brakes. thus the disc brake model in the link. i’m a bit meh about the disc brakes other than they offer more clearance. i’ll take it.

as I said, it is shocking to me that the only bike i found so far is indeed made of the crabon. it was not what i went searching for. just what ended up meeting the other requirements. I had expected to find an alloy frame that met the list. And I did… But I can only get it as close as Mexico.. stupid Canyon.

the internal routing is because of my insane obsession for ascetics. i am aware that there is no technical reason for it. I am pleased by the fact that most if not all reviews of modern Specialized cable routing has them doing a very ‘good’ job in that it has guides in their runs and that it makes it less of a PITA. Something I am concerned about. My current bike has one internally routed cable and it is done nicely and has been a non issue in doing work on.

Foundry looks nice, but also out of the budget.

Chinese Carbon is an option. I worry about getting a frame that has all that cable routing loveliness. I don’t know that I want to get that deep into it all. I was honestly very close to just going with the Nashbar Cr5 but for the bb30. It is so lovely and not covered in print/ads/crap.

[hozn]

@dplasters 129880 wrote:

Chinese Carbon is an option. I worry about getting a frame that has all that cable routing loveliness. I don’t know that I want to get that deep into it all. I was honestly very close to just going with the Nashbar Cr5 but for the bb30. It is so lovely and not covered in print/ads/crap.

FWIW, I know that @GB’s [chinese] carbon frame (ICAN?) did come with [permanent] tubes in the frame to make feeding the cables/housing through very easy. (I’m actually not sure if his frame has stops or if it is full housing in the frame for shifter cables; that is also something to consider — not all are the same in that regard; my road bike has stops for the shifters but of course full housing for the brake hoses/cables.) My previous road frame was internal for shifters but external for the brake; new frame is internal everything, which does definitely look nicer. As long as you keep the guide lines that come with the frame replacing housing or cables should be doable. Worst case, you pull out the BB to help feed stuff back through. Or just hold out for SRAM eTap and two of your problems go away

I’ve been really happy with Hongfu/Flybike frames and wouldn’t hesitate to buy a CX frame. (AFAIK Miracle Bike linked above is another trade company that sells Flybike frames, though not all the trade companies stock the same frames so not exactly clear who designs what, etc.)

I don’t know which open mold frameset Nashbar uses, but I assume it’s one you could definitely find cheaper if you dealt direct w/ a Chinese trade co or factory. That said, warranty/support is a big reason that dealing with Nashbar might be nicer.

[dplasters]

Ridley also makes an option that is now in the running.

[Dirt]

Interesting bunch of criteria for your bike. Sounds like a fun project.

Disclaimer: I work in a local shop and I’m up to my elbows in this style of bike all day, every day.

A few things: Internal cable routing has a great aesthetic, but is often a pain when it comes to maintenance. A good bike shop can help with changing cables. Park tools makes a nice kit to make threading cables easier.

Threaded bottom brackets are my personal favorite. That comes from a guy who works 40-60 hours per week working on other people’s bikes. Press fit bottom brackets were developed to solve problems with carbon frames (You can’t thread into carbon and aluminum inserts are either heavy or fragile.) Press-fit bottom brackets on steel, ti or aluminum frames solve a problem that doesn’t exist and cause problems that shouldn’t exist. I attended a bike brand kick-off where the marketing wonk introduced the latest and greatest BB technology for non carbon frames…. it is the 68mm, English-threaded bottom bracket shell. WOOHOO! They’ve only been around for decades!

Tire clearance. The best and most capable studded tires for real winter riding with 700c wheels come in 35, 38 and 40mm sizes. If using serious studded tires is your goal, make sure you get a frame that can handle that size of tire with a little room so they don’t pack up too much. It is easy to have a giant ice ball that engulfs your front derailleur and prevents shifting.

One thing that I didn’t see you mention is geometry and ride quality. Before the advent of modern adventure/gravel bikes, we used cyclocross bikes for this kind of riding. Many folks still do with great success. CX bikes are really designed for CX racing… which is fast-paced and requires quite twitchy handling characteristics. Adventure/Gravel bikes are MUCH nicer to ride day in and day out. They usually have a little longer chainstay (5-10mm longer) to add a little stability, while keeping the front triangle steep to make it initiate turns nicely. They also often lower the bottom bracket a little. This lowers the center of gravity on the bike and adds a little stability without sacrificing agility and fun in the turns. Test ride a few! They’re worth it! They come in many flavors and frame materials ranging from stable… almost light-touring bikes to ones that are closer to a road geometry, but with disc brakes and extra tire clearance.

A few ideas:
Kona Rove (comes in aluminum, steel or titanium) and price ranges from $850-$5000
Jamis Renegade (available in aluminum, steel or carbon) and price ranges from $800-4300
Raleigh Willard, Tamland or Roker (aluminum, steel and carbon respectively) ranging in prices from $1300-$5000
Volagi Viaje (steel or ti) ranging in prices from $1800-$5000+
Surly Straggler (steel) at around $1800 or as a frameset to build as you like
Salsa Warbird (Aluminum or Carbon) with prices from $1600-4300
Salsa Vaya (steel or ti) — Originally designed as a light touring bike, but it makes a LOVELY all-rounder. Prices from $1500-$5000

Specialized makes the Diverge. Cannondale makes the Slate. I’m sure Trek, Giant and other big manufacturers make similar bikes.

These bikes, though designed for gravel roads and a little rougher riding make WONDERFUL bikes for every day use because they combine agility and a fun ride, with stability and comfort that makes the great for distance riding. Take a test ride!!!! These bikes all have their own character and feel to them.

Enjoy the discovery process with whatever bike you choose. Spend some time riding them. It is great to have such wonderful weather in which to test stuff out!

Pete

[AFHokie]

@Dirt 130247 wrote:

Specialized makes the Diverge. Cannondale makes the Slate. I’m sure Trek, Giant and other big manufacturers make similar bikes.

I think the Trek Crossrip is their closest example to your criteria, though I found it a little too twitchy for my tastes.

Giant’s Anyroad or Revolt may be an option for you, but I don’t think the Anyroad offers internal cable routing. The Revolt sort of has it, but that’s due to the detachable mud guard on the down tube. Its two pieces, I took the ‘mud flap’ part off and left the cover over the cables on. I really like mine, but usually the biggest knock I hear or read about the Revolt is its looks.

Have you looked at Specialized’s AWOL? I think it’d meet most of your requirements, but I don’t think anyone would ever call it esthetically pleasing.

[mstone]

@AFHokie 130249 wrote:

Have you looked at Specialized’s AWOL? I think it’d meet most of your requirements, but I don’t think anyone would ever call it esthetically pleasing.

Looks fine to me. People who think that bikes shouldn’t have changed since the mid 1950’s presumably hate it?

[Tania]

@Dirt 130247 wrote:

A few ideas:
Kona Rove (comes in aluminum, steel or titanium) and price ranges from $850-$5000
Jamis Renegade (available in aluminum, steel or carbon) and price ranges from $800-4300
Raleigh Willard, Tamland or Roker (aluminum, steel and carbon respectively) ranging in prices from $1300-$5000
Volagi Viaje (steel or ti) ranging in prices from $1800-$5000+
Surly Straggler (steel) at around $1800 or as a frameset to build as you like
Salsa Warbird (Aluminum or Carbon) with prices from $1600-4300
Salsa Vaya (steel or ti) — Originally designed as a light touring bike, but it makes a LOVELY all-rounder. Prices from $1500-$5000

I have the carbon Salsa Warbird and will imminently have the steel Rove if you’d like to see either bike in person. I can’t say enough about the Warbird – internal routing, disc brakes and clearance for up to 42. Plus it’s just fun to ride and makes me want to go fast.

[AFHokie]

@mstone 130256 wrote:

Looks fine to me. People who think that bikes shouldn’t have changed since the mid 1950’s presumably hate it?

It looks fine to me as well, but it’s like comparing a Ford Taurus to a Ford Mustang. Both are cars and both will fulfill their primary function of getting you from point A to point B. However the Mustang’s much more pleasing to the eye and provide a more ‘fun’ drivers experience whereas the Taurus will carry more and do it with greater efficiency.

That and it doesn’t meet his internally run cable requirement which by his own volition is purely for ascetics.

[DismalScientist]

Bah… Top tubes are supposed to be horizontal.

[Author]

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