Covet

[Dickie]

Looks like the Ebay listing has ended, so either subby pulled the trigger and made a deal or unfortunately it has been sold. For what it is worth, besides frame geometry, some higher end group sets also distinguish between men and woman, specifically offering brake levers with shorter reach, etc. I think this actually came into fashion around 2005-06, so it might have been something to consider. All in all I tend to agree with vvill and would opt for a new bike with 105 from a LBS. This way you get support, discounts on gear, a relationship, and exactly what you are looking for. It also allows you to test ride a bunch of bikes without feeling guilty about wasting the shop’s time.

[americancyclo]

@Dickie 47643 wrote:

Looks like the Ebay listing has ended

US $1,199.00 [ 0 bids ]

how bout an aluminum frame, carbon fork and Sram Apex for under $1,000?
http://spokesetc.com/product/12trek-2.1-c-130884-1.htm

[consularrider]

@americancyclo 47648 wrote:

US $1,199.00 [ 0 bids ]

how bout an aluminum frame, carbon fork and Sram Apex for under $1,000?
http://spokesetc.com/product/12trek-2.1-c-130884-1.htm

I understand that SRAM APEX is more like the Shimano Tiagra level.

[mstone]

@consularrider 47650 wrote:

I understand that SRAM APEX is more like the Shimano Tiagra level.

SRAM doesn’t have as many artificial market segments as Shimano, so an exact comparison is impossible. I think manufactures that have both generally position Apex as an upgrade from Tiagra, and Apex/105 just boils down to which one you like better–each has pluses and minuses.

[Greenbelt]

@Subby 47593 wrote:

Advice needed, again. As some folks know I have been trying to find a road bike for a few months. I finally found one on Craigslist that I liked, but I emailed the lister and they responded about a week later saying they had taken down the ad and listed the bike on eBay. The lister owns a bike shop in Leesburg called Transition Triathlon. If the bike doesn’t sell on eBay, then I can come out to their shop and look at it. The woman said the bike is in great shape and that she just wants to transition to one her shop sells. The listing is below. It is an Orbea Onix with full Ultegra. It is a 2006 model. Should I worry about the bike being that old? The price seems pretty reasonable.

Also, because I’m an idiot, I guess I don’t know if it matters that is was a woman’s bike? Is there a difference in women’s and men’s road bikes?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Orbea-Onix-size-54-Full-Ultegra-/251249098175?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item3a7f9cfdbf

Thanks!

Are you pretty sure your size is a 54 (realizing that some 54s are not the same as other 54s!)? -Jeff

[Subby]

Thanks to everyone for their advice!

The bike did not sell on eBay so I am going to go out there tomorrow and check it out. It is not a woman’s bike so no concerns on geometry. It’s a married couple and they own a bike shop, so I am going to see if I can get them to throw in a deal on the fitting (if I like the bike).

If I can get the bike + a fitting for $1200 it seems like it would be a decent deal.

[Subby]

@Greenbelt 47662 wrote:

Are you pretty sure your size is a 54 (realizing that some 54s are not the same as other 54s!)? -Jeff

That’s a very good question. I am 5’10” and most of the charts I have looked at say 54-55 would be my best fit. Should I be concerned there?

[Bilsko]

I’m 5’10” / 5’11” and Clovis at Freshbikes has recommended a 54/55 frame (Effective top tube measurement) for me. My proportions (arm and leg length) are along the bell curve so assuming you’re a pretty standard 5’10” then a 54/55 eTT should be good. You can dial in the fit with components as needed

[Greenbelt]

@Subby 47664 wrote:

That’s a very good question. I am 5’10” and most of the charts I have looked at say 54-55 would be my best fit. Should I be concerned there?

Yes, probably. Sizing varies, but 5’10” guys with normal leg and torso length would probably be comfortable on a bike in the 53-56 range I think, but I’m no expert. Depends some on your preferred position I think too. I’m 5′ 10″ and I ride a 56 with a somewhat relaxed geometry (CX and CX-ish) and a fairly upright riding position usually. I’ll keep my eyes open for any bargains I see!

[DismalScientist]

I’m a Grant Petersen/Rivendell fan, so at 5’11-6’0, I go a size higher than the fit nazis (just kidding:rolleyes:) would suggest. I typically take a 58 cm (23″), but prefer a 60 cm (24″) seat tube. Effective top tube for my touring bike is 57.9 cm, although this is probably a more relaxed geometry (longer top tube) than you might want.
In summary, you might prefer a 56. Since this is sold by a bike shop, you may wish to test ride a larger frame before buying.

[Dickie]

I’m 5-11, but slowly shrinking according to my doctor. I ride a 57cm Bianchi road bike and a 56cm Cannondale cross bike, but putting them side by side is pretty hilarious and really puts into perspective the varying ways manufacturers label and size their bikes. The Cannondale head tube, and thus my bars are more than an inch taller than the Bianchi. I always say ride as many bikes as possible before you pull the trigger. I don’t pay too much attention to the numbers. If I am supposed to be on a 57cm but if feels uncomfortable when I’m on it what does the number matter? Compare the polar opposites of me and Dismal’s experiences and preferences, we are essentially the same height but are comfortable on very different sizes. If you really want to get a sense, or narrow it down before you go for the test ride try using Competitive Cyclist’s on-line fit calculator to get you in the ball park. Their categories of different riding styles is also pretty interesting… I tend to dial in my bikes in the “Eddie” category.

Regardless, ride the bike and if you can’t stop smiling then that’s a good sign, if you are grimacing from the get go that’s a different story. Good luck!

[DismalScientist]

I’ve always wondered why frame size matters all that much. It would seem to me that the only thing that matters is the relative position of the seat, the bars and the bottom bracket. In addition, the wheelbase and the rider’s position fore and aft and up and down relative to the wheels matters. A change in frame size can be compensated by changing the length of the seatpost, stem height, and stem reach. In addition, you can change the seat fore and aft. Going for a larger frame just means that the frame bears more of the length rather than the posts and stems. I guess people will respond that a compact frame is more responsive and therefore you should go smaller. As I normally look for things with a more relaxed, “touring” geometry, I would say that responsiveness isn’t high on my list of important attributes, and would therefore go with the larger frame.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@DismalScientist 47758 wrote:

I’ve always wondered why frame size matters all that much. It would seem to me that the only thing that matters is the relative position of the seat, the bars and the bottom bracket. In addition, the wheelbase and the rider’s position fore and aft and up and down relative to the wheels matters. A change in frame size can be compensated by changing the length of the seatpost, stem height, and stem reach. In addition, you can change the seat fore and aft. Going for a larger frame just means that the frame bears more of the length rather than the posts and stems. I guess people will respond that a compact frame is more responsive and therefore you should go smaller. As I normally look for things with a more relaxed, “touring” geometry, I would say that responsiveness isn’t high on my list of important attributes, and would therefore go with the larger frame.

Well, standover is certainly a consideration. I imagine that if I swung a leg over Tim’s bike, I wouldn’t be able to keep both feet on the ground, which is problematic for many reasons….

[Tim Kelley]

@TwoWheelsDC 47767 wrote:

Well, standover is certainly a consideration. I imagine that if I swung a leg over Tim’s bike, I wouldn’t be able to keep both feet on the ground, which is problematic for many reasons….

Depends on the bike. You could definitely stand over the top tub on the TT bike, but you probably couldn’t sit on the seat and complete a full pedal rotation…

[DismalScientist]

@TwoWheelsDC 47767 wrote:

Well, standover is certainly a consideration. I imagine that if I swung a leg over Tim’s bike, I wouldn’t be able to keep both feet on the ground, which is problematic for many reasons….

That’s where the “rule” where you pick the largest frame that you can comfortably stand over comes from. I can get a 63cm (25″) appropriately dialed in for riding for me. It’s just that mounting and dismounting is mildly problematic.:rolleyes:

[Author]

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