[TwoWheelsDC]

If you want a free one I have a 510 that I found like a year or two ago and was never claimed (I tried finding the owner on Twitter to no avail). Not sure how well the battery has held up after sitting in a box all that time, but you’re free to see if it works.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@mydear_watson 201881 wrote:

Hello!
I am interested! Have you sold this bike and/or is it available for a test ride?
Thank you!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for your interest! I literally was coming here to post that this was sold when I saw your post. So it is sold…but best of luck with your search!

[TwoWheelsDC]

@Dewey 201825 wrote:

Sweet ride! I read Bosch are rolling out a firmware update to increase torque on certain Bosch gen 4 motors from 75 to 85nm. EBR says your ebike has the Performance Speed MY20 motor, the Bosch press release mentions Performance Speed MY21 motors get the upgrade but also says “Performance Speed drive units cannot be retrofitted”. Might be worth checking with the dealer what the score is. Regardless I love Gazelle’s step-through ebikes and yours looks more capable than the EasyFlow I test rode for a month a couple of summers back.

Oh that’s interesting! I wouldn’t complain about an additional 10nm of torque, but frankly 75nm already feels pretty good, especially on my hilly commute. Because of the heat and wearing work clothes, I rode pretty conservatively this morning (first commute on the Gazelle, and my first real ride on a mid-drive), but I imagine the ride home will be seriously fun.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@Dewey 201817 wrote:

Fair price! Curious what mid-drive ebike are you buying?

The Gazelle Ultimate T10+. Go big or go home, right?

[TwoWheelsDC]

@ImaCynic 201807 wrote:

Well, as you described it, front downshift followed by rear upshift, that makes sense. But in the Di2 case, the rear triggers the front, so as one downshifts on the rear (attacking a climb, for example) the front automatically drops and then rear automatically upshifts? If somehow one forgets that it’s set up that way, it would be a bit abrupt.

Yeah, I suppose if you forgot it could be a shock! My Garmin actually alerts me when the next shift will trigger the chainring shift, which definitely helps. I don’t think it has ever been a “surprise” for me though. And there’s always the option to just not set it up that way (it takes a special adapter and app to make Di2 do anything other than shift “normal”).

[TwoWheelsDC]

@ImaCynic 201803 wrote:

This seems a bit dangerous to me given the amount of the ratio change that occurs, especially if this occurs during an out-of-the-saddle climb. I do not ride Di2, but I do have Campy EPS. It does not shift to another gear automatically, but it does detect chain rub and automatically trim the FD to eliminate it.

Not sure what you mean. This type of shift is a common, rider-initiated shift that could be done with our without Di2 (a front downshift quickly followed by a rear upshift), that overall minimizes the ratio change and avoids cross-chaining. Di2 just does it faster and without having to press the button for the front shift if you set it up that way. Not sure why anyone would do such a shift while out of the saddle though, regardless of their drivetrain.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@kwarkentien 201779 wrote:

No. But you can set it up that it will change the front or rear derailleur into the most optimal gear for your speed/effort based on gear inches and all that techie stuff. There are lots of ways you can set it up to change gears. I just do the normal up/down front/rear but there are other options.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I don’t think regular Di2 can do this truly automatically. Apparently STEPS+Di2 can be fully automatic, since it has a built-in torque and cadence sensor that can talk to a Di2 RD, but that’s only for ebikes. At least with my current setup, the only “automatic” thing is that when I’m on my big ring, and downshift from my second-lowest to lowest cog, the big ring automatically shifts to the small ring and the cassette automatically shifts back up to the 3rd lowest cog (this is fully customizable). So in practice, I never use my left/big ring shifter, since all the big/little ring changes are handled automatically based on the cog I select with the right shifter. But I still have to manually shift the rear in order to trigger an automatic front shift.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@Emm 201664 wrote:

OMG LOOK AT MY PRETTY NEW PINK BIKE!!!

After months of staring at pictures of the pink Salsa Warbird online, my S.O. finally commented that I needed to “stop illicitly looking at pictures of the damn bike and go buy it”. So… I did! Thanks to Bikenetic for making the whole process go smoothly.

One thing I found that kinda annoyed me is that Salsa’s geometry changed a bit from 2018, when I had last tried the Warbird. Back then, the 55 was the perfect size for me. This year, I was at the high end of the 54.5 sizing recommendations, and the low end of the 56. The 54.5 was a more comfortable standover height for me, but I hit my knees on the handlebars when I got out of the saddle to climb, and the whole bike felt awkwardly small. The staff at Bikenetic warned me they thought the 54.5 was smaller than it should have been (and they had some theories about some weird sizing issues at Salsa…), so at least I got a fair warning that it likely wasn’t the right fit. So the 56 was purchased after a test ride, and we checked it by measuring my favorite-fitting bike for comparison to make sure I wasn’t doing anything crazy. Per my usual, I will shrink down the handlebars, and I may just shorten the stem a little if I need to. It rides wonderfully, and I can’t wait to ride it to Harpers Ferry this weekend on it!

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Niiiice. That color is pretty fu*&in’ cool. And the pink is the Di2 model right? If you haven’t already checked it out, the Di2 wifi module (WU111) is super handy. It lets you program the shifting with your phone (for example, I have mine set up to auto shift the front chain ring depending on the gear I’m on on the back) and it lets your Garmin display your gearing, and I think also make minor adjustments to derailleur trim and things like that. It’s totally plug-and-play and you can install it anywhere along the Di2 wiring.

Also, I’ve never ridden a Salsa, but I always thought their geometry looked a little funky. Not ugly or weird or anything, just different. Maybe it’s the degree to which they slop their top tubes…

[TwoWheelsDC]

@mstone 199887 wrote:

It’s a ridiculous ask to have DOT people out putting up cones so people can play outside right now. I’m sorry, I don’t believe that the sidewalks anywhere in the region (that is, not desirable destinations that people are flocking to and causing the closures) are so crowded that they are life-threatening.

Advocacy is great, but at some point it’s counterproductive. Making “needs more bike space” the answer to every problem just makes that solution less credible when it actually is appropriate.

This isn’t about bike space…at least not for me. Frankly, I cringe at the idea that this could somehow be an opportunity for creating space for “cyclists.” But everything I’m reading about CV transmission makes me want to stay as far away from people as possible (see here, in particular), and most sidewalks really just don’t have the space for that. I live in a dense-ish inner-suburb neighborhood (Park Fairfax), and several times each block I, or another oncoming sidewalk user, has to walk in someone’s yard to maintain distance. During peak jogging times, it’s even worse, and many joggers just run in the street so walkers/kids/normals can use the sidewalks. I don’t want road lanes closed for “epic bike rides,” but I would like to see *some* of them closed or modified so normal people can go out for a walk in their neighborhood without having to potentially walk through a virus cloud.

Having quieter streets for biking is a nice second-order effect, but the priority should just be for making extra space for normal people to get out of the house and still maintain social distancing.

[TwoWheelsDC]

**sanitizes desk thoroughly**

**bangs head on desk**

It’s not about you. Just stop.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@jrenaut 199085 wrote:

Going to see how this feels. Aesthetically, it could be worse?

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Eeeeeeeeee…maybe grab a 0 degree [emoji51]

[TwoWheelsDC]

Capital Weather Gang is forecasting a “spring weather pattern” for the next couple of weeks…let’s just hope the course stays relatively dry!

[TwoWheelsDC]

@jrenaut 198995 wrote:

I don’t want to change bar style – I really do prefer riding on the brake hoods and don’t like the look of bullhorn bars.

I was told a while back by someone, I can’t remember who, that I couldn’t go shorter on the stem. But yes, I think it’s 100mm.

0 degree would mean the stem points a little up? I like the look of the stem parallel to the ground. But maybe if I get a shorter stem that would be enough.

I’ve generally run 90 stems on all my bikes, but they definitely can be way shorter. About the shortest you’ll find without getting into more specialty stuff is 60mm. And 0 degree would point “up”, but you could compromise and get something like a -6 degree? Looks like yours is a -15ish?

Also, your saddle looks decently slanted…how’s that affecting things? Could be forcing you into a position where you’re putting additional pressure on your arms/hands, but if it works for you, then obviously go with that.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@josh 198994 wrote:

If they’re still up for grabs (thought Sarah Bee was going to take them), I’ll snag the Ortlieb and Chrome bags.

Dread took the Chrome, but the Ortlieb is yours. (BTW, I’m happy to give them to the Sarah’s thing, but I haven’t seen any updates and I just want these things gone.)

[TwoWheelsDC]

@jrenaut 198963 wrote:

I’m trying to compensate for the bike being just a little too big for me. The stem is about as short as it can go. I almost never ride in the drops so that’s not a concern.

I might try raising the handlebars a little bit and also raising the drops a little bit and see where that gets me. Compact bars might help too, I’ve been meaning to look at that as well.

Stem looks like a 100mm? You could easily go shorter, like as far down as 60mm. Also, consider moving to a 0 degree…I would bet that the the drop on yours is almost certainly contributing to your discomfort and the feeling that the bike is too big.

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