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@huskerdont 196864 wrote:

I do think some strobers are oblivious. I have forgotten myself once or twice, including last year’s FS finale when I pulled up at Hains Point. If they’re oblivious, a word could make a difference, but if they know what they’re doing and don’t care, what are you going to do.

Totally fair and of course I’m coloring this with my own perception. If someone were to point out to me that I was committing a faux pas, I’d be mortified/apologetic and would likely never repeat the offense. But as well all know, people handle perceived criticism in different ways…some more productive than other.

[runbike]

@TwoWheelsDC 196585 wrote:

Yelling at fellow cyclists about lights is just super unnecessary and like the most passive-aggressive thing you can do as a trail cyclist…it’s the car honking of trail usage. You’re a bully if you do it and I always make a wish that people who do it to me ride over shards of glass immediately after.

To the light issue…Front strobes on the trail are really the only thing that bothers me.

Honest question: how do you convey to the front strobers that they ARE a legitimate safety hazard on the trail after dark. I’m not advocating an expletive-laden tirade or anything, but a kind (and firm) “Please turn off the strobe!” in the roughly two seconds that you’re passing them seems pretty reasonable to let someone know they’re really not being cool to their fellow trail users. (I’ll admit to deploying this a few times recently after dark on the Custis, where the strobe effect bouncing off the sound walls was completely blinding) Passive aggressive? I don’t know. Again you only have 1.5-2 seconds of interaction in passing. You could always stop and block their path to convey your request, but that could be perceived as, you know, aggressive-aggressive.

I’m also pretty sure strobers know exactly what they’re doing. It only takes one encounter with someone running a front strobe for any normal person to be like, “yeah, definitely shouldn’t do that to anyone”. And a strobe being a strobe, there’s no way for the operator to claim that they didn’t know it was in that mode or forgot to switch it to solid. Dude, you KNOW.

NOTE: When talking about strobes I mean legit bike lights operating in strobe/flash mode, not those 3 lumen planet bike blinky lights. Run those bad boys all you want in whatever configuration. We’re cool.

[runbike]

@hozn 179448 wrote:

It’s so odd to me that you guys have had problems with the G-Ones. Still by far my favorite serious gravel tire, though I am gonna try some Donnelly Strada USHs or similar for additional perspective now that they make their tires tubeless in larger sizes.

But I have had zero flats on G-One tires and that includes 4 or 5 gravel races in addition to a fair number of single-track miles. This is the larger (700×38/40-622) size and always tubeless. These tires are super easy to setup tubeless.

I’m equally enamored with my G-Ones (38c “all around” version), tubeless setup. No issues whatsoever in roughly ~1000 miles of use at this point. I actually got a fair-sized nick in the front tire, but the sealant went to work and it’s held air with no issues since then on all kinds of terrain (country road gravel, towpath, etc.)

My only gripe is that they seem to wear pretty fast. The center nubs are almost completely gone at this point. Thinking about picking up a pair of the new G-One bites as a replacement…

[runbike]

@bob_dc 176592 wrote:

Hope (or maybe don’t hope!) that got sorted out.

I did! Still not sure what that was about (the Strava stats box was giving me 574 miles on the year with 67K feet of climbing, but when I refreshed it dropped back down). Like I said, weird.

@bob_dc 176592 wrote:

I actually thought you’d win

So did I! I would like to say I had the advantage given that my lower overall mileage made it easier to change my avg ft/mi calculation by throwing in hill repeats (and kudos to Brad for the Quebec tip). But I started that a bit too late and didn’t factor in your ability to ride mega-hill for multi-hour stints. I might have stayed out a bit later last night, and ignored my wife’s 10pm text of “U R being dumb. Come Home”, had I known how close we were!

@QuikAF77 176594 wrote:

Congrats Bob! The top 3 are all insane really.

So…that means Brad and I get beer too right?

[runbike]

Congrats Bob on the victory! I tried to close the gap in this final week (and let’s be honest, final hours…), but you were not to be outdone with your 15+ mile hill repeat rides. You’ve more than earned that craft beer prize (think of it as calorie replacement after 114K feet of climbing )!

[runbike]

Late to reply, but I’ll be there as well!

[runbike]

@bob_dc 173641 wrote:

J.C. W could easily, and rather stealthily, run away with this thing. By the time he hits 30K feet he’ll probably have it if he keeps at his current pace.

Why I have no idea what you’re talking about…little old me going for the feet/mile prize is just silly (*RIDES AWAY FURIOUSLY UPHILL)

[runbike]

Bikey McBikeface

Do I win?

[runbike]

Not to derail this thread by getting back on topic, but I’ve heard good things about the Scosche BoomBottle. They make a variety of sizes ranging in price from $34 – $110. As the name implies, it’s designed to fit in a bottle cage, and they can get pretty loud according to reviews.

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I personally use the Outdoor Tech Buckshot 2.0.

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It’s much smaller and has no bass. But I clip it on my backpack strap so it’s just below my right ear. I can hear my music with only minimal disturbance to other trail users. Since that’s not a factor for you, I say boombottle it up!

[runbike]

@hozn 165181 wrote:

Question: is that a paint marker on seatpost to mark position? Were you having issues w/ slipping? My only warning about using the alloy post in the ti frame is that if you don’t use anti-seize it’ll eat away the aluminum on the seatpost. I had a Thomson masterpiece for awhile on a ti frame; I couldn’t really use anti-seize because it would slip (I used carbon paste), and it destroyed the seatpost. Just something to keep in mind. Ti and aluminum don’t like each other — at least the ti wins (assuming that’s generally the expensive part of the equation). I found a used ti Syncros seatpost for my commuter that I really like. Avoid the KCNC seatposts (if you want to go ti) as they creak. Or at least mine did.

Good question – that’s actually the anti-seize you see on the seatpost (I must have been messing with fit right before taking the picture and didn’t wipe it off). I definitely did the homework on “cold welding” and applied that stuff liberally when installing the post. As of yet no slip, but I’m still running things in. Will keep an eye on it.

And thanks! I’m super-excited to be out riding this thing around. Next step is to look at the calendar and figure out which Bikenetic Friday gravel hooky ride I can make…

And question for you – any recommendations on plugging the unused internal routing port on the down tube? I’ve seen people recommend clear silicone (like for caulking a bathtub) but maybe there’s something better…

[runbike]

Proud to introduce this Why Cycles R+ titanium gravel/adventure bike that I recently finished putting together (my first-ever build). For the past year I’ve been wanting to add a gravel bike as my n+1 and looked at pretty much every option out there. Eventually though I started zeroing in on titanium frames (for the whole “forever bike” thing) and came across Why Cycles, a relatively new company out of Utah that specializes in titanium bikes. Their R+ model checked all of the boxes, and is gorgeous to boot.

Their complete bike packages were a bit out of my price range, so I opted for the frame/fork/wheels package and spent a few months building it up when I came across discounted or used parts. It was also a great learning experience as my mechanic skills were in the novice range beforehand, but I can now shorten and bleed hydraulic brake lines with the best of ’em (or at least without making a huge mess). Between YouTube and this forum I had plenty of advice and how-to knowledge to tackle the build. Just took me awhile as I proceeded slow and steady so as not to mess anything up.

75 miles or so in now and could not love this bike more. It’s light and WAY faster than it has any right to be on 40mm tubeless G-Ones (btw – never going back to tubes; tubeless forever!).

[runbike]

Hey everybody!

Not sure if this has been covered elsewhere, but I happened to be driving (gasp!) on N. George Mason Drive (between Yorktown and Lee Highway) and saw that as part of the recent repaving it’s also receiving those v2.0 bike lanes with the extra buffering. Check it out!

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[runbike]

@americancyclo 159240 wrote:

What’s the size?

It’s the Large 20″ size, which Stromer claims is good for riders between 5’8″ and 6’3″

[runbike]

Reduced Price (4/27/2017) – asking $1750. Need to make room for the next bike

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[runbike]

@dcv 154613 wrote:

I think it’s this guy, I’ve seen him ride in the oncoming lane to get around cars waiting / taking turns at a stop sign – and blow through the intersection without stopping. https://www.strava.com/activities/858250611

Ah the Gearcrusher. I’ve been following his antics since he blew by me on this ride (https://www.strava.com/activities/730189559/overview) back in September. He also likes to wear full kit and uses clipless pedals on his Specialized Turbo, which is just weird. As a former e-bike owner, I can say that anything beyond street clothes and platform pedals means you’re doing it wrong But that’s just my opinion and all and I would obviously defer to someone who self-identifies as “gearcrusher” in their Strava profile name…

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