Harry Meatmotor
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Harry Meatmotor
Participant@sjclaeys 167162 wrote:
Good question and one that the more vocal e-bike advocates do not seem to want to answer.
I think Gillian wants us nazi-anti-ebike folks to say it’s because we hate fat people.:rolleyes:
ParticipantParticipant@TwoWheelsDC 167157 wrote:
Not a lot of riders out there who can put out…*squints*…zero watts.
…Or think riding on the Custis @30mph is a great idea.
Participant@dasgeh 167123 wrote:
If we’re going to ban folks based on ability to go fast, then those guys would be banned too.
Like this guy!
@TwoWheelsDC 163781 wrote:
Participant@hozn 166757 wrote:
What’s the advantage to running Lasers for DS rear?
saves money. the rear DS spokes see the “dirtiest” air, and bladed spokes there give no aero benefit. Also, cheaper to replace if you suck the chain between the spokes and cassette.
ParticipantOr, build “November-style” and run CX-Ray up front and non-drive rear, Laser or Race drive-side rear.
Participant@TwoWheelsDC 166739 wrote:
The geek factor is big for me. And maybe this is just my imagination, but my tubeless tires/wheels give off kind of a gentle road noise hum when rolling that my tubed wheels/tires never had and that I find soothing, and is a reminder that there’s just that much less rubber between me and the road.
Oh! If that’s your thing, let me try to convince you to run open tubular clinchers with latex tubes. You will feel the magic carpet ride and hear beautiful noises.
Participant@dplasters 166733 wrote:
I took it above the pressure that caused it to fail before. Stopped at 85psi after inflating/deflating 3 times and gave up on it.
For those running tubeless on commuters – what is your schedule for topping up sealant?
Most sealant manufacturers recommend replacing/scrubbing out old sealant every 6 months or twice a season-ish. Yearly is what I would recommend at a minimum.
ParticipantMy point being for commuting is more that I don’t feel like bringing more stuff (plug kit, more sealant) that isn’t nearly guaranteed to work. The other reason I’m not sold for commuting is in the odd case that the bead becomes unseated, I’m potentially looking at a pile of wasted CO2 cartridges on the side of the trail when the bead won’t seat. Or do I bring a charge-style pump now, too?
Setting/resetting up tubeless is pretty painless in a shop; is mildly messy at home; isn’t something I want to futz with on the side of a trail in the dark.
As for CX – burping is pretty common, judging by my and my teammates’ experiences over the last couple seasons. Losing 5psi isn’t a huge problem. It’s losing 5psi after that because the tire is already low. At Hub Labels this year I was practically riding the rim on the front wheel by the time I finished. At Bikenetic Dirt Crit I burped almost all the air in the rear and I had to drop out of top 5. If I race CX next season, I think I’ll be making the jump to tubs.
Participant@huskerdont 166708 wrote:
You people are seriously not helping in my long, slow process of considering switching to tubeless. Or maybe you are, and I’ll stick with tubes.
Just my personal (mildly cranky) opinion:
- Tubeless MTB = FTW!
- Tubeless Road (<28mm tire) = no f-ing way
- Tubeless all-road gravel grinder gobbledygook (>30mm tire, less than 60PSI) = prolly maybe
- Tubeless CX = only if you’re bringing pit wheels or have someone working the pit
- Commuting (any tire size) = no f-ing way*
* I can imagine getting a Miller High Life induced flat on the way to work, at 6:12am, in the dark, 40F (perceived temp: -38F), being covered in sealant, trying to wrestle a super tight bead, breaking two tire levers, etc. That’s enough to make me skip that biz.
ParticipantJudging by other cyclists’ clothing choices this morning, it was apparently -24F.
Participantahhh, modern IT. Fix something; break something. Fix the thing we broke. Break the thing we fixed.
Imagine if your plumber pulled the same sh*t:
Fix leaky faucet in kitchen.
basement floods 8 inches.
drain basement.
(6 weeks later) everyone in neighborhood has low water pressure.
fix pressure.
faucet in bathroom starts dripping. response from plumber, “well, my faucet isn’t leaking!”
(4 weeks later) open up sock drawer in bedroom; socks are soaking wet.
Participant@bentbike33 166290 wrote:
Then he’s not the only one riding one of these. I saw one a couple weeks ago coming up the ramp from MVT to the 14th Street Bridge as I was going down. I did not get a really good look because trail traffic, but the picture on the web page sure looked like the same old-time motorcycle I saw coming up the trail.
What color was it?
I think, but haven’t confirmed, that there’s a single Chinese or Taiwanese OEM that’s making a whole slew of these relatively new motorcycles (all 1.5-3kW hub driven from what I’ve seen) that look more like vintage motorcycles and at least a handful of companies importing/branding them, like Icon. The dead giveaway is to look at the top tube/seat tube/seatstay junction – there’s one OEM that’s using a hydroformed top tube that’s welded to the seatstays in a weird way. They’re also putting branding on the fake combustion engine/battery cover that would differentiate brand, but the branding placement indicates it is the same OEM.
“I, for one, welcome our new 3kW overlords!”
Participant@bentbike33 166300 wrote:
Is three layers enough rim tape to keep the air pressure from stretching the tape into little divots over the spoke holes? In my limited experience (with narrow-ish road tubeless rims), I can only get a tubeless tire to seat with fresh rim tape.
for most of the rims I’ve dealt with at the shop, 2 wraps is good enough using stan’s tape. At home, however, I used 3M blue packing tape you can get on amazon and according to the innernets, it’s a teeny-tiny bit thinner than stan’s. So at home I wrap 3 wraps. Haven’t had any major issues yet between the two bikes in the house running tubeless, aside from burping in races and getting a bunch of crap in the bead because my GF corners at ludicrous speed.
Participant@drevil 166279 wrote:
I assume you’ve never had issues doing this though?
It’s more of a fix in a pinch, and I usually run three layers of tubeless tape, with overlap at the valve hole, so the cut up valve fits pretty snug through the hole poked in the tape.
I’ll add to this discussion, too, that I tend to look at tubeless valves/valve cores as kinda dispensable – if they give me any grief due to gunky valve cores or bad seals at the base I just toss them out.
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