Post pics of your bike thread

[ShawnoftheDread]

@cyclingfool 59703 wrote:

There is always this route. I did something similar with my 1″ threaded so I could use regular old 1-1/8 threadless stems.

http://www.ebikestop.com/profile_conversion__254mm_1_18_fork_to_286mm_1_18_threadless_stem-SM6402.php?PARTNER=GOOGPS&gclid=CN39iI6q2rgCFY5r7AodUVgAnQ

That said, this seems to be the only adapter for 1-1/8 threaded. There were several options for 1″.

Anyway, just a thought.

That would work. Thanks, it’s more than I’ve been able to find.

[KLizotte]

@Tim Kelley 59700 wrote:

SLAM that stem.

Pardon the newbie question but what exactly does that mean? Take out all the spacers?

[Rod Smith]

Exactly, slammed means no spacers and flipped such that the angle between stem and head tube is 90º or less.

[vvill]

@TwoWheelsDC 59699 wrote:

I’m finding that, as I put more miles on my road bikes and spend more time riding in the drops, my body is getting more flexible and I’m much more comfortable in a more aggressive position. It has basically gotten to the point where I’m seriously considering slamming the stem on my Cervelo, as well as getting a longer stem and/or losing some spacers on my commuter.

Yeah it’s funny how the set up on my road bike has changed since I first got it. The seatpost has gone up at least a few inches, and I moved the stem down 3 or spacers at one point. I’ve since moved it back up (two?) higher though since I moved the seatpost up.

The thing is though it doesn’t seem to make that much difference to me. I rode an “endurance” style road bike with a taller headtube and everything felt about the same, and when I rode my flat bar hybrid around it wasn’t that different either. I guess it would a difference on the longer 40+mi rides which I don’t do quite as often.

[Tim Kelley]

@KLizotte 59722 wrote:

Pardon the newbie question but what exactly does that mean? Take out all the spacers?

http://slamthatstem.com/

It’s more ELITE that way.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@Tim Kelley 59750 wrote:

http://slamthatstem.com/

It’s more ELITE that way.

May take a while to get there…I’ll probably be rocking some steerer above the stem for a while until I commit to cutting!

[hozn]

@TwoWheelsDC 59754 wrote:

May take a while to get there…I’ll probably be rocking some steerer above the stem for a while until I commit to cutting!

I think with carbon steerer tubes there is usually a recommendation to have 5mm of spacers above your stem anyway. But, definitely keeping some extra room is not a bad idea. If there’s only one thing I’ve learned about bike fit, it’s that things change.

For a long time I was riding a too-small Lemond with 12.5cm of drop between the seat and bars (and my stem had spacers under it). It was generally fine, but I started developing consistent lower-back pain when riding more than a few hours. I upgraded to a larger frame and moved my bars up a few cm. That was so much nicer on long rides. And when I upped my riding to 12ish hours a week, I again started experiencing various pain — knees at first (which I fixed w/ saddle height adjustments) and then lower-back again which led me to set up my commuter with a more upright position than my road bike. It’s all comfortable right now. In the end, I see bike fit as more of a continual body-feedback loop and it’s nice to have a little flexibility to move things up or down. Change sometimes is also just nice, even if long-term it doesn’t solve fit problems.

[DaveK]

@hozn 59759 wrote:

I think with carbon steerer tubes there is usually a recommendation to have 5mm of spacers above your stem anyway.

The install notes for my Easton carbon fork say to keep one spacer above the stem to ensure that the stem is fully clamped on the steerer itself… I see a lot of guys running the top cap on top of the stem though on other full-carbon forks though, so YMMV.

[hozn]

@DaveK 59773 wrote:

The install notes for my Easton carbon fork say to keep one spacer above the stem to ensure that the stem is fully clamped on the steerer itself… I see a lot of guys running the top cap on top of the stem though on other full-carbon forks though, so YMMV.

Yeah, I think this is typically just ignoring the mfr recommendations. Given that carbon [steerer] forks use compression plugs, the stem is going to be above the top of the fork if you’ve got a top cap mounted directly on the stem. There might be designs very different from mine that I have not encountered, but from seeing threads on WW or RBR, it looks like a lot of people are just deciding that it’s “safe enough” to have the stem bolts below the top of the tube. Not sure that’s the part of the bike I’d pick to make safety compromises.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@hozn 59815 wrote:

Yeah, I think this is typically just ignoring the mfr recommendations. Given that carbon [steerer] forks use compression plugs, the stem is going to be above the top of the fork if you’ve got a top cap mounted directly on the stem. There might be designs very different from mine that I have not encountered, but from seeing threads on WW or RBR, it looks like a lot of people are just deciding that it’s “safe enough” to have the stem bolts below the top of the tube. Not sure that’s the part of the bike I’d pick to make safety compromises.

My limited research suggests that Cervelo is actually unique in this regard, as they don’t require/suggest a spacer between the stem and top cap (something to do with their steerer design). Mine actually came that way…unless, of course, I’m not understanding the conversation correctly.

[hozn]

@TwoWheelsDC 59826 wrote:

My limited research suggests that Cervelo is actually unique in this regard, as they don’t require/suggest a spacer between the stem and top cap (something to do with their steerer design). Mine actually came that way…unless, of course, I’m not understanding the conversation correctly.

Yeah, I stand corrected. Apparently 3T forks use an alloy sleeve insert and a star nut instead of a compression plug; that would let you cut the top of the steerer flush with the top of the stem and add put the the stem cap directly on top. Boss!

[vvill]

@hozn 59759 wrote:

I think with carbon steerer tubes there is usually a recommendation to have 5mm of spacers above your stem anyway. But, definitely keeping some extra room is not a bad idea. If there’s only one thing I’ve learned about bike fit, it’s that things change.

Yep! I was sort of (poorly) alluding to this in my previous post. When you’re recovering from an injury or something it’s great to be able to switch up your fit with just some turns of an allen key.

And yeah I always keep a 5mm crabon spacer above my stem as my fork is full crabon.

[americancyclo]

@vvill 59855 wrote:

Yep! I was sort of (poorly) alluding to this in my previous post. When you’re recovering from an injury or something it’s great to be able to switch up your fit with just some turns of an allen key.

And yeah I always keep a 5mm crabon spacer above my stem as my fork is full crabon.

This PDF from Specialized doesn’t indicate a spacer is necessary
http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf/manuals/08_Fork_Installation_Guide_r2.pdf

[ShawnoftheDread]

@americancyclo 59867 wrote:

This PDF from Specialized doesn’t indicate a spacer is necessary
http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf/manuals/08_Fork_Installation_Guide_r2.pdf

Rule 45.

[hozn]

@americancyclo 59867 wrote:

This PDF from Specialized doesn’t indicate a spacer is necessary
http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf/manuals/08_Fork_Installation_Guide_r2.pdf

Interesting. Yeah, that isn’t what ENVE (or apparently Easton) recommend. It looks like Specialized wants to ensure that their 48mm plug is passes fully through the stem. I assume they have reason to recommend that. I’d probably follow rule #45 anyway unless my stem’s stack height is > 43mm, at which point I’ll investigate further.

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