Layers 101

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  • #909599
    Dirt
    Participant

    This may be a bit basic for folks, but I see tons of people getting it wrong, so I thought I’d write this up.

    Layers are the key to keeping warm and dry. When we talk about layers, quality and type are MUCH more important than quantity of layers. More clothes is never the right answer unless you’re wearing the right KIND of clothes.

    There are three kinds of layers: wicking, loft (insulation) and wind breaking.

    Wicking layers transfer moisture away from your skin. They’re responsible for keeping you dry. They offer a bit of insulation too, but that is not their primary purpose. These are the first layers that you put on.

    They can be as simple as an inexpensive base layer or synthetic long-underwear or as complex as high tech base layer where different zones of your body are covered with different thicknesses and textures of fabric to maximize warmth and moisture transfer. Wicking layers can be as cheap as a $8 technical t-shirt from Walmart or as expensive as $150 base layer.

    Wicking layers can be used anywhere on your body. They exist for gloves, shirts, tights, socks and even hats.

    For my core, I’ve had very good luck with inexpensive base layers made by a company called Verge. They can be found for as little as $12 for sleeveless tops. Like anything synthetic, they tend to trap odors after a while. At $12 each, it doesn’t hurt to recycle them after a year.

    My favorite for this time of year are made of merino wool. They’re soft, warm and have a very wide temperature range. They cost $40-80 each and are made by a variety of manufacturers.

    Loft layers provide insulation. They create dead air space between your outer layers and wicking layers. Moisture must transmit through, but their primary source is to hold your body heat in. Winter jerseys often have a little fleece on the inside to provide loft. Microfleece can work well for this. Some jackets (soft shells) have fleece in them too to add loft.

    Wind Breaking layers are meant to keep wind and wet out while allowing perspiration to leave. Seems simple, eh? It isn’t. If they don’t breathe well enough, it is very easy to overheat, sweat and soak yourself… thus causing a serious danger of freezing. Most simply, vents are holes in high temp areas under your arms or on your back to let sweat and some heat out. More complex venting can be done using fancy laminated fabrics that keep moisture out, but let your skin breathe. Gore-Tex is the one that comes to mind most readily, but there are many other fabrics on the market that do this. The best jackets, vests, pants, gloves use a combination of high tech fabrics and simple venting to balance keeping warmth in and getting/keeping moisture out.

    Wind breaking layers can be as inexpensive as a simple nylon windbreaker or can cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Same with tights, pants and gloves.

    You’ll notice I have been talking most about keeping my core (torso) warm. While the layers really apply to most places on the body, the key part that I concentrate on is keeping my core at the right temperature.

    Combination Layers: There are wicking layers that have loft. There are insulating layers with wind/water breaking panels. There are wicking layers with wind breaking layers. I use them from time to time… particularly wind breaking layers with a bit of loft.

    The Tricky Part: What to wear when?

    This is personal preference. I know you hate that answer. We’re all different in the way we ride, the amount of heat we give off and how quickly we chill. Personally I sweat more than normal humans. Venting is critical. Most of my jackets/vests/tights for cold weather have a mesh back to let the excess heat out. The wind protection on the front holds enough warmth to keep me from freezing and all that venting in the back keeps me from boiling.

    My friend Barbara FREAKS when I talk like that because she’s very different. She needs more insulation everywhere because she neither generates heat like I do, nor does she retain it like I do. (That’s NOT a social statement by any means. ) ;) I guess it is physiological. In my 35+ years of winter riding, I’ve known women and men that are at both extremes of the heat generation/retention continuum.

    On the 40 degree mornings we’ve had lately, I’ve been wearing summer cycling shorts, knee warmers with a wind protective patch over the fronts of my knees, a pair of baggy mountain bike knickers over the top to keep wind out. Up top I’ll wear a light base layer with a winter jersey for loft and a wind-front vest to keep my core warm. Below 40 and I’ll go to a long sleeve jacket… still mesh backed.

    All of us are going to be different in the combinations that we use. I stated that above as an example.

    I promised that this would be brief and to the point. I’ve obviously wandered.

    Next topic: Specific layers that I’ve used that work well for me.

    What works for you?

Viewing 5 replies - 106 through 110 (of 110 total)
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  • #987430
    bluerider
    Participant

    This year I have been successful with this winter lineup:

    Baselayer: ibex Woolies 150 sleeveless
    Jersey: ibex Indie long sleeve jersey
    Insulator: ibex Shak vest
    Outerlayer: Gore Gore-tex Fusion 2.0 jacket
    Bottoms: PI fleece lined tights with PI short liners
    Socks: ibex wool
    Hat: ibex Coppi or Meru

    Still deciding my optimum gloves and shoe covers but this setup works well for me down to below freezing. I want some ibex tights to complete my need to warmth.

    #988066
    Bilsko
    Participant

    I am WAAAAY late to the online-showrooming question that came up around the Giro grear at Freshbikes…but my $0.02…in the case of the Giro gear it makes almost no difference. The prices that stores are getting are the same as what you’re getting from the Giro site online – or very very close. FWIW.

    #989072
    Phatboing
    Participant

    My cheapskate-ish layers, which I’m rather happy with, if it helps anyone:

    Top:
    Base: Light wool+acrylic blend sweater (free, mooched from my mum)
    Heat-trapping device: The shell layer from an LL Bean Storm Chaser jacket ($80 when I got it on sale)

    Bottom:
    Base: Army surplus polypropylene pants ($17 or so)
    Outer: REI Outdoor pants ($30 during a member sale)

    Hands:
    Pearl Izumi lobster gloves (got em at closeout for $30)

    Feet:
    Hiking shoes that are a bit big + 3 layers of socks (wool liners from REI + wool blend hiking socks from Costco. COSTCO! + LL Bean neoprene socks)

    Head:
    LL Bean balaclava

    Tricked out thus, I’m almost too warm some days, but if I unzip my shell, I can get enough air circulation going to keep me cool (I generate a LOT of heat).

    For my outer layer, I’m going to replace the jacket with one of these: http://www.froggtoggs.com/mens/mens-jackets-all-weather/frogg-toggsr-ultra-lite-rain-jacket.html. The Internet tells me they work as advertised, so should be interesting.

    #990047
    Dirt
    Participant

    It’s cold and it is getting colder.

    Keep safety in mind early next week. The fall and early winter riding is practice for when it gets colder. It helps you get your mind, body, commuting route and wardrobe ready for colder days to come. If you didn’t get a lot of that practice in, Tuesday morning (5 degrees Fahrenheit) is NOT the day to try it out. If you haven’t done your homework yet, please keep Tuesday’s ride short and sweet. Make it a lesson that doesn’t leave a mark.

    Y’all inspire me and make me happy to see so much riding and excitement about Freezing Saddles. Keep it up!

    Pete

    #990074
    Greenbelt
    Participant

    Pedal hard and bring lots of water and food to keep your energy and hydration up! Keep the food on an inside pocket to keep it from becoming brick hard. And use insulated water bottles or you’ll have a slurpee by mile 5.

Viewing 5 replies - 106 through 110 (of 110 total)
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