Layers 101

Our Community Forums Bikes & Equipment Layers 101

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 111 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #909599
    Dirt
    Participant

    This may be a bit basic for folks, but I see tons of people getting it wrong, so I thought I’d write this up.

    Layers are the key to keeping warm and dry. When we talk about layers, quality and type are MUCH more important than quantity of layers. More clothes is never the right answer unless you’re wearing the right KIND of clothes.

    There are three kinds of layers: wicking, loft (insulation) and wind breaking.

    Wicking layers transfer moisture away from your skin. They’re responsible for keeping you dry. They offer a bit of insulation too, but that is not their primary purpose. These are the first layers that you put on.

    They can be as simple as an inexpensive base layer or synthetic long-underwear or as complex as high tech base layer where different zones of your body are covered with different thicknesses and textures of fabric to maximize warmth and moisture transfer. Wicking layers can be as cheap as a $8 technical t-shirt from Walmart or as expensive as $150 base layer.

    Wicking layers can be used anywhere on your body. They exist for gloves, shirts, tights, socks and even hats.

    For my core, I’ve had very good luck with inexpensive base layers made by a company called Verge. They can be found for as little as $12 for sleeveless tops. Like anything synthetic, they tend to trap odors after a while. At $12 each, it doesn’t hurt to recycle them after a year.

    My favorite for this time of year are made of merino wool. They’re soft, warm and have a very wide temperature range. They cost $40-80 each and are made by a variety of manufacturers.

    Loft layers provide insulation. They create dead air space between your outer layers and wicking layers. Moisture must transmit through, but their primary source is to hold your body heat in. Winter jerseys often have a little fleece on the inside to provide loft. Microfleece can work well for this. Some jackets (soft shells) have fleece in them too to add loft.

    Wind Breaking layers are meant to keep wind and wet out while allowing perspiration to leave. Seems simple, eh? It isn’t. If they don’t breathe well enough, it is very easy to overheat, sweat and soak yourself… thus causing a serious danger of freezing. Most simply, vents are holes in high temp areas under your arms or on your back to let sweat and some heat out. More complex venting can be done using fancy laminated fabrics that keep moisture out, but let your skin breathe. Gore-Tex is the one that comes to mind most readily, but there are many other fabrics on the market that do this. The best jackets, vests, pants, gloves use a combination of high tech fabrics and simple venting to balance keeping warmth in and getting/keeping moisture out.

    Wind breaking layers can be as inexpensive as a simple nylon windbreaker or can cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Same with tights, pants and gloves.

    You’ll notice I have been talking most about keeping my core (torso) warm. While the layers really apply to most places on the body, the key part that I concentrate on is keeping my core at the right temperature.

    Combination Layers: There are wicking layers that have loft. There are insulating layers with wind/water breaking panels. There are wicking layers with wind breaking layers. I use them from time to time… particularly wind breaking layers with a bit of loft.

    The Tricky Part: What to wear when?

    This is personal preference. I know you hate that answer. We’re all different in the way we ride, the amount of heat we give off and how quickly we chill. Personally I sweat more than normal humans. Venting is critical. Most of my jackets/vests/tights for cold weather have a mesh back to let the excess heat out. The wind protection on the front holds enough warmth to keep me from freezing and all that venting in the back keeps me from boiling.

    My friend Barbara FREAKS when I talk like that because she’s very different. She needs more insulation everywhere because she neither generates heat like I do, nor does she retain it like I do. (That’s NOT a social statement by any means. ) ;) I guess it is physiological. In my 35+ years of winter riding, I’ve known women and men that are at both extremes of the heat generation/retention continuum.

    On the 40 degree mornings we’ve had lately, I’ve been wearing summer cycling shorts, knee warmers with a wind protective patch over the fronts of my knees, a pair of baggy mountain bike knickers over the top to keep wind out. Up top I’ll wear a light base layer with a winter jersey for loft and a wind-front vest to keep my core warm. Below 40 and I’ll go to a long sleeve jacket… still mesh backed.

    All of us are going to be different in the combinations that we use. I stated that above as an example.

    I promised that this would be brief and to the point. I’ve obviously wandered.

    Next topic: Specific layers that I’ve used that work well for me.

    What works for you?

    #923954
    Dirt
    Participant

    Of all the wicking layers I’ve known before….

    The thing you’ll noticed that I’ve never suggested or mentioned is cotton. NEVER EVER EVER use cotton as a layer in the winter. I never use it in the summer either. Cotton absorbs sweat and doesn’t release it. It loses all ability to retain heat when it is wet. Cotton in any layer of any garment will make that part of your body freeze. Did I mention that cotton is bad? Okay. I’ll let that rest. ;)

    I mentioned the Verge base layer. I love that stuff. I use it for commuting in all 4 seasons and for long rides when temps are above 55. Its temp range is great. It is cheap. It is disposable. It is 100% synthetic and can be put out with the recycling.

    For long, cold rides, my personal favorite is merino wool base layer. Hincapie sportswear makes fabulous wool base layer. It costs $45-55 per depending on your sleeve preference. For me it is worth every penny.

    When it is DANG cold…. I’m talking “freeze all exposed skin” cold, I run for Craft’s sub zero stuff. It is stupidly expensive, but you don’t have to own a lot of it since those rides are not as frequent. They make tops and tights. It feels weird when walking around the house because it is designed to fit your body when you’re in a riding position.

    I don’t do well with combination wicking/wind breaking layers. I have tried a few from Nalini and Craft and I perspire too much for any of them to wick effectively. I get wet then freeze. If I’m riding casually in very cold weather that works. I tend to ride as fast as possible when it is that cold to keep my core temp high.

    Liner gloves are wonderful. I have some from Giordana, Pearl Izumi, Sugoi, Adidas and Nalini. They’re great these days because I wear an outer glove when it is 40 degrees out in the morning and just wear the liners when it is 60 degrees on the way home.

    How ’bout y’all???

    Hope some of this is helpful. Help me out with your input and what works for you? Thanks!

    #923956
    Joe Chapline
    Participant

    Great post, Dirt, this is really good information for anyone getting ready for a long commute or recreational ride. My short (3-mile) commute doesn’t require a lot of special gear. I wear my work clothes and choose a jacket for the temperature. It’s November now; a bit on the warm side for the season, but chilly enough that I carry earmuffs and an old pair of knit wool gloves from an army surplus store. That’s all it takes to keep me comfortable on my 20-30 minute rides. I’m throwing this out for people browsing the forum, who might be thinking about using a bike for short trips in the colder months.

    #923959
    Dirt
    Participant

    Perfect contribution, sir. Practical, reasonable and effective. :D

    #923960
    Dirt
    Participant

    Joe’s post brings out some very good information about me. I’m probably insane. I have this pathological dislike of driving. What’s worse, is that I love cars. If you can figure that out, please enlighten me because I don’t get it.

    The bottom line is this: I will go to amazing lengths to not drive my lovely, wonderful, and very warm, cozy car. I was forced to for almost 6 weeks last winter because of a dislocated shoulder. I spent $3000 on a recumbent trike so that I could get back to commuting under human power 5 weeks earlier.

    Back on topic: One of my all-time favorite articles of insulating layers are Roubaix shorts. Roubaix cloth is a kind of lycra that is lined with fleece. Lots of winter tights and jerseys are made from it. I have found that Hincapie, Rapha, Giordana, Special-ed (aka Specialized), Nalini and many more companies make shorts from the stuff. They’re brilliant. Add knee warmers and you’ve got knickers. Add leg warmers and you’ve got tights. Wear them under tights and you have an awesome extra bit of warmth for your gentleman vegetables.

    If you ride a lot in the fall or early spring, you’ll love these things. Truly amazing.

    #923973
    skreaminquadz
    Participant

    Another excellent write-up Pete!

    I actually like riding this time of year, which has not always been the case. Now that I have found the right “gear” for it, it’s a lot of fun!

    I almost exclusively use Merino wool for socks, jersey, and skull cap. I’ll sometimes double up on the merino wool if it’s ridiculously cold. As for bottoms I use the PI Thermafleece Amfib stuff – works quite well. I have a pair of Edura Lobster gloves that I use if temps drop down real low and sometimes add a merino wool liner.

    Shoes – I use my standard MTB shoes with toe covers and Sugoi Resistor booties. They work quite well but I noticed that they don’t last long so I’m getting a new pair about every season.

    #924065
    OneEighth
    Participant

    For what it’s worth, I use coolmax technical rowing shirts from JL Racing pretty much year-round anymore. The short sleeve jerseys are comfy between low-60’s and whatever the Summer brings. The longsleeve tech shirts are good (once warmed-up) from the upper 40’s without a jacket. The drawback is that these are rowing shirts and do not have pockets (unless JL has taken my suggestion to heart). But, if you are commuting, the lack of pockets shouldn’t matter because you are probably humping some gawd-awful backpack anyway (like me). Can’t beat the price either.

    Craft makes a nice split-finger glove, though I am much happier now that I’ve replace the stock synthetic liner with a Smartwool liner.

    Defeet. What can I say?

    Tom

    #933800
    Dirt
    Participant

    Thought I’d bump this:

    Some people have asked about clothes that are not so tight. Honestly, I’m sure there’s a technique for keeping warm on rides of an hour or longer, but I don’t know it. Base layer needs to be snug against your skin for it to really work. When I dress more casually… in looser, but still high tech clothes, I end up sweathing then freezing. I imagine if I just adjusted my speed down to lower my heat put-out, it might work better for me.

    #933802
    americancyclo
    Participant

    This thread is great, and needs more forum members to contribute, so here goes:

    keep in mind that this is what has been working for me over the past three years bike commuting just under an hour from VA to DC in temps down to about 20 degrees. It’s by no means the best available, it just what I’ve accumulated through gifts, giveaways, and appropriation from other sports.

    Head
    50 or lower – REI balaclava to keep the wind off my ears and neck. retains a pretty good amount of heat without changing the fit of my helmet.
    30 or lower – I add on a neoprene lower face mask. this covers my nose, mouth, and also stretches up to give me another layer over my ears. I usually pull this down around my neck after the first 30 min of the ride.

    Torso
    Regular cycling jersey
    Wool Arm warmers – i used to scoff at arm warmers, but this season, I LOVE them!
    Windproof Cycling Jacket

    I used to layer a waffle thermal and a fleece vest over the jersey and under the jacket, but this year, even when it’s been 25 when I’ve left the house, I’ve never needed more than the arm warmers, jersey, and jacket.

    I bought my brother in law an Endura Flyte Jacket and FS260 Pro Jetstream Jersey that he loves, and frankly, I think I need one of each now. That jersey is pretty badass, it’s got windproof panels in the front, but more breathable ones in the rear.

    Legs
    50 to 40 – all season cycling shorts and some knee high wicking snowboarding socks I’ve owned for years.
    40 and below – Pearl Izumi Winter Cycling Tights
    40 and below – Endura Luminite Shoe Covers

    Add in smartwool socks, thickness varies depending on temperature, or what is clean.

    Gloves
    down to 40 – had LG gloves for about 4 years, just threw them out and started wearing Manzella Silkweight Gloves
    40 and below I’ve been using snowboard gloves, but I think I’m getting a pair of lobster gloves or glacier gloves or moose mitts for xmas!

    #933807
    txgoonie
    Participant

    Ladies generally have a bit of a conundrum in that we need a support layer first and foremost. So the question becomes do you try to multitask base and support with your first layer or accept that you’ll need two different pieces?

    I’m a super cold-natured person. I feel chilly when it’s 70 degrees out. So for those poor souls like me, I’ll reiterate the part about fit – base layer has to be tight against your skin. I feel like if I have that part taken care of, the other layers matter a lot less and you need less bulk that you might think. If it’s still in the 40s, I’ll wear a shimmel, which is basically a long sports bra, with arm warmers as the base. Then I’ll cover with a long sleeve jersey and whatever outer piece the conditions demand (wind, rain, etc.). If it’s super cold, I’ll start with a standard sports bra and put a base layer over it: either a long-sleeve fleece-lined mock turtle tech shirt (the one I have is Nike) or a light wool half-zip (either Patagonia or Smartwool). Then layer as necessary.

    So far this season I’ve been able to get away with PI lobster gloves, but I have a feeling when the temperatures really start to dip, I’ll want a liner in the mix, too.

    My feet just stay cold. They just do. This past Sunday, I wore double wool socks, chemical toe warmers and neoprene booties, and at the end of a 3-hour ride, my toes were still frozen. Not sure what else I could possibly do besides get winter cycling shoes, and those aren’t in the budget this year.

    This is more geared toward training rides than commuting, but I’m still experimenting with embro. That subject could probably support its own thread, though;)

    #933816
    Arlingtonrider
    Participant

    For an 8-12 mile commute in 25 -30 degree F weather, which I do, as always, in regular running shoes — this works very well for me. Even though I generally get cold easily, I stay toasty warm, despite not having special shoes or anything but my own hair on my head under my helmet. It might not be right for longer/colder rides though.

    Torso etc: Normal womens’ “first layer”; a polypro or merino blend long-sleeve undershirt; a fleece turtleneck shirt with neck zip; and a shell type commuting jacket (screaming yellow Pearl Izumi barrier elite for high viz).

    Legs: Novarra Headwinds pants.

    Face and neck: I have two face shields for skin protection from cold and wind and choose which to wear depending on how cold it is. One is a very light, soft Gore windproof one (just bought it at REI recently for days when its not cold enough for the warmer one) and the other, for when it is really cold, is fleece and includes neck protection. Both have good nose coverage and venting (open under the nose), good breathing holes for the mouth, and velcro in the rear. (With my cycling glasses and helmet, almost my entire face is protected, except for around my glasses where I need air anyway.) Then I add “wrap around the back” earmuffs before putting on my helmet. I’ve found that I like to use the face shield with a polartec neckscarf rather than a balaclava so that I easily take them off (or loosen the scarf) if I get too warm without having to stop and remove my helmet.

    Hands: A variety of gloves to choose from depending on temps. I tried my (awesome!) new Moose Mitts when it was 28 degrees out, and found that, with those, my very lightest full fingered gloves kept me toasty. I think I could have even worn fingerless gloves and been fine. Most cold mornings, I’m just fine with my regular warmest biking gloves. No special liners or anything.

    Feet: Thin nylon socks with warm wool blend or ski socks over them, then my regular running shoes. That combination keeps me warm enough for at least for an hour or so ride when it’s 25-30 degrees out. (I once tried cutting off the ends of newspaper bags and putting them over my toes for windproofing, but found it counterproductive.) The two pairs of socks alone work just fine, although they might not for a longer/much colder ride.

    #933820
    eminva
    Participant

    My extremities have always gotten cold easily and I dress accordingly as follows:

    Cold:

    Lightweight wool ski sweater (Icebreaker or Ibex)
    Ibex Shak Vest (the first thing to come off if I get overheated, or if it’s warmer on the other end of my commute)
    Wind breaker or Bspoke Angel jacket
    Tights of any variety (biking, running, etc.)
    Wool socks (Smartwool or similar)
    Bike shoes
    Full fingered gloves
    Lightweight wool cap
    fleece headband worn around my neck or over my cap

    Colder

    Heavyweight wool ski sweater
    Ibex Shak Vest
    Bspoke Angel jacket
    Tights of any variety (biking, running, etc.)
    Wool socks (Smartwool or similar)
    Fleece Lined Timberland Boots (on flat pedals)
    Lobster claw gloves
    Fleece balaclava

    Coldest (I’ll ride down to air temps of 15 F or Wind Chill of high single digits)

    Heavyweight wool ski sweater
    Non-technical parka
    Windstopper cycling pants
    Wool socks (Smartwool or similar)
    Chemical toe warmers
    Fleece Lined Timberland Boots (on flat pedals)
    Lobster claw gloves
    Fleece balaclava

    I wear a wicking sports bra year round.

    My commute is anywhere from 55 minutes to 1 hour, 20 minutes. I do find I get warm and then cold if I start to sweat. I just stop and take off layers/add layers as needed. Some of you may have seen me along the trail. Yes, this is time consuming, and I do feel like I have half my closet in my bag at times, but it seems to work comfort-wise.

    Some of this stuff is expensive, but I built the collection over years, got it on sale, etc.

    Liz

    #933847
    GuyContinental
    Participant

    Don’t forget wind chill when you are thinking of your layers! Dress for Wind Chill at your expected sustained high speed not average- This is particularly important for those of us with longer commutes (1 hr +) but shouldn’t be neglected. A 25 degree day quickly becomes 11 degrees at 20 mph. That’s fine for a few minutes but a big deal over 10+…
    NOAA Wind Chill Index

    My kit when super cold (for a 25+ mile 1-way commute) is

    Head
    Balaclava

    Torso
    Patagonia SS base T
    LS layer
    PI windproof convertible Jacket

    Legs
    PI Tights
    Summer riding shorts

    Hands
    Liners
    PI Windproof Gloves

    Feet
    Smartwool socks
    MTB shoes
    PI windproof covers (not durable…)

    I still suffer in the “man-bits” and belly region and will occasionally use some extra smartwool socks (not kidding)- would like a AmFib bib set or at the very least some wind-proof briefs but Mrs Santa has already been generous with bike parts this season so I’ll probably have to wait until the spring sales.

    #933854
    Dirt
    Participant

    Great additions, y’all! Thank you!!!

    I seem to be the opposite of many of you. I am, by nature, very warm and tend to generate and give off a lot of heat. One thing that I haven’t talked about is adjusting my riding based upon the weather. If it is very cold out, I may start the ride a little faster than normal to get my blood flowing and warm myself up a bit. A little bit before I reach a comfortable temperature, I back off the effort a little and let my temperature level off a bit. If I get cold, I up the tempo a little.

    Arlingtonrider brings up another favorite topic… Cycling shoes, by nature, tend to be cold in the winter… even some of the fancy ones designed for winter. It can be MUCH cheaper and ultimately warmer to switch to flat pedals and some kind of winter boots for walking. You probably already have the boots, and a decent pair of spiky flat pedals costs around $20-30.

    Thanks again y’all. You rock!

    #933865
    culimerc
    Participant

    My wife uses platform pedals only and another friend has a townie with platform pedals. Both swear by MKS Lambda pedals

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 111 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.