Layers 101

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  • #909599
    Dirt
    Participant

    This may be a bit basic for folks, but I see tons of people getting it wrong, so I thought I’d write this up.

    Layers are the key to keeping warm and dry. When we talk about layers, quality and type are MUCH more important than quantity of layers. More clothes is never the right answer unless you’re wearing the right KIND of clothes.

    There are three kinds of layers: wicking, loft (insulation) and wind breaking.

    Wicking layers transfer moisture away from your skin. They’re responsible for keeping you dry. They offer a bit of insulation too, but that is not their primary purpose. These are the first layers that you put on.

    They can be as simple as an inexpensive base layer or synthetic long-underwear or as complex as high tech base layer where different zones of your body are covered with different thicknesses and textures of fabric to maximize warmth and moisture transfer. Wicking layers can be as cheap as a $8 technical t-shirt from Walmart or as expensive as $150 base layer.

    Wicking layers can be used anywhere on your body. They exist for gloves, shirts, tights, socks and even hats.

    For my core, I’ve had very good luck with inexpensive base layers made by a company called Verge. They can be found for as little as $12 for sleeveless tops. Like anything synthetic, they tend to trap odors after a while. At $12 each, it doesn’t hurt to recycle them after a year.

    My favorite for this time of year are made of merino wool. They’re soft, warm and have a very wide temperature range. They cost $40-80 each and are made by a variety of manufacturers.

    Loft layers provide insulation. They create dead air space between your outer layers and wicking layers. Moisture must transmit through, but their primary source is to hold your body heat in. Winter jerseys often have a little fleece on the inside to provide loft. Microfleece can work well for this. Some jackets (soft shells) have fleece in them too to add loft.

    Wind Breaking layers are meant to keep wind and wet out while allowing perspiration to leave. Seems simple, eh? It isn’t. If they don’t breathe well enough, it is very easy to overheat, sweat and soak yourself… thus causing a serious danger of freezing. Most simply, vents are holes in high temp areas under your arms or on your back to let sweat and some heat out. More complex venting can be done using fancy laminated fabrics that keep moisture out, but let your skin breathe. Gore-Tex is the one that comes to mind most readily, but there are many other fabrics on the market that do this. The best jackets, vests, pants, gloves use a combination of high tech fabrics and simple venting to balance keeping warmth in and getting/keeping moisture out.

    Wind breaking layers can be as inexpensive as a simple nylon windbreaker or can cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Same with tights, pants and gloves.

    You’ll notice I have been talking most about keeping my core (torso) warm. While the layers really apply to most places on the body, the key part that I concentrate on is keeping my core at the right temperature.

    Combination Layers: There are wicking layers that have loft. There are insulating layers with wind/water breaking panels. There are wicking layers with wind breaking layers. I use them from time to time… particularly wind breaking layers with a bit of loft.

    The Tricky Part: What to wear when?

    This is personal preference. I know you hate that answer. We’re all different in the way we ride, the amount of heat we give off and how quickly we chill. Personally I sweat more than normal humans. Venting is critical. Most of my jackets/vests/tights for cold weather have a mesh back to let the excess heat out. The wind protection on the front holds enough warmth to keep me from freezing and all that venting in the back keeps me from boiling.

    My friend Barbara FREAKS when I talk like that because she’s very different. She needs more insulation everywhere because she neither generates heat like I do, nor does she retain it like I do. (That’s NOT a social statement by any means. ) ;) I guess it is physiological. In my 35+ years of winter riding, I’ve known women and men that are at both extremes of the heat generation/retention continuum.

    On the 40 degree mornings we’ve had lately, I’ve been wearing summer cycling shorts, knee warmers with a wind protective patch over the fronts of my knees, a pair of baggy mountain bike knickers over the top to keep wind out. Up top I’ll wear a light base layer with a winter jersey for loft and a wind-front vest to keep my core warm. Below 40 and I’ll go to a long sleeve jacket… still mesh backed.

    All of us are going to be different in the combinations that we use. I stated that above as an example.

    I promised that this would be brief and to the point. I’ve obviously wandered.

    Next topic: Specific layers that I’ve used that work well for me.

    What works for you?

Viewing 15 replies - 61 through 75 (of 110 total)
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  • #983479
    Dirt
    Participant

    @tuba_transport 66516 wrote:

    BTW, I wrote down what works for me at different temps and edit it year after year to adjust to new insights and my evolving needs for winter clothing. Here is my personal FAQ I refer to for myself each Autumn so I don’t have to reinvent the wheel every year when I try to remember what worked 6 months ago.

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ynG_e-u1JNPF8pudUURLVRF0PPXxkBghoICRsfva2CI/edit?usp=sharing

    You rock, sir! Thank you!

    #984026
    pfunkallstar
    Participant

    @tuba_transport 66516 wrote:

    The Northwave Celsius Arctic GTX. The Arctic version is supposed to be warmer than the non-Arctic. I don’t know, never tried the non-Arctic.

    I have Lake boots from a few years ago. They are still useful in deep snow or if the temps go below 20 degrees. Both of those have been rare the past couple years though.

    I bought the Northwave boots because I tried their summer shoes and they were a great fit for my wide feet. I wanted a lighter boot. The boots also have a spacious toebox, which is essential for thick socks. If your winter boots are not loose then they are not warm no matter what you are wearing. Circulation is key. I wear the same sized Northwave boot as Northwave summer shoe because the toe box is so big.

    I RARELY wear my Lake boots anymore. The Northwave’s are way way way waaaaaay lighter. Nearly summer shoe light, especially compared to the Lakes. They claim to have a water resistant lining, but when it rains your feet will get wet due mostly to the short tops on them. If it is rain an in the 30s I will pull out the Lakes.

    With all that said, the Northwaves rock. I can wear my Arctics comfortably up to 45F. Too hot above that temp. But then again 40F is about the transition temp for me to wear wool socks and toe covers on summer shoes anyway. The weight of the Northwave shoes cannot be understated. They are so much more efficient than the heavier Lake boots.

    I have worn mine very comfortably from about 25-45 degrees. I did race Snotcycle this year in them when the temp was 19F. For that I added a toe chem warmer and my feet were very happy.

    For anyone entertaining the idea of purchasing the 3-bolt road cleat version of any boot, DON’T. Road cleats are USELESS in snow and ice. Step off the bike one time and the cleat fills with ice and you don’t get clipped back in. Invest in MTB pedals for winter if you have not already. Road soles are also USELESS to walk on in perfect summer conditions. Now try walking on them on ice and snow. Get the MTB pedals for winter.

    This winter will be my third season on my Northwave boots. I will wear them every day the temp stays below 45F just like the past 2 seasons. The boot is essentially as good as new, unlike Lakes which fall apart every season.

    One of the best pieces of kit I own.

    BTW, I wrote down what works for me at different temps and edit it year after year to adjust to new insights and my evolving needs for winter clothing. Here is my personal FAQ I refer to for myself each Autumn so I don’t have to reinvent the wheel every year when I try to remember what worked 6 months ago.

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ynG_e-u1JNPF8pudUURLVRF0PPXxkBghoICRsfva2CI/edit?usp=sharing

    Just stumbled across this, COMPREHENSIVE! Also, bike clothing need not be expensive. Seasonal comfort buying is always inversely proportional to price, so wait for the first 90 degree day then go web bargain hunting for those neoprene booties.

    #984036
    OneEighth
    Participant

    @tuba_transport 66516 wrote:

    For anyone entertaining the idea of purchasing the 3-bolt road cleat version of any boot, DON’T. Road cleats are USELESS in snow and ice. Step off the bike one time and the cleat fills with ice and you don’t get clipped back in. Invest in MTB pedals for winter if you have not already. Road soles are also USELESS to walk on in perfect summer conditions. Now try walking on them on ice and snow. Get the MTB pedals for winter.

    True. I made this mistake when buying winter boots and am too stubborn (or cheap/afraid of my wife) to buy MTB boots. I usually end up having to carry some sort of pig-sticker on my pack to dig out any ice that jams up my cleats as a result. Not ideal.

    #984045
    Dirt
    Participant

    @OneEighth 67129 wrote:

    True. I made this mistake when buying winter boots and am too stubborn (or cheap/afraid of my wife) to buy MTB boots. I usually end up having to carry some sort of pig-sticker on my pack to dig out any ice that jams up my cleats as a result. Not ideal.

    Never click out. Problem solved. ;)

    #984255
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    Just in time for the cold snap! Sidi Diablos… A bit more expensive than the Northwaves, but I feel like Sidis are a long-term investment that are worth the extra up front cost…Looking forward to testing them tomorrow!

    10448673415_c3bb2cecee.jpg

    10448827953_a6fb42de84.jpg

    #984266
    bluerider
    Participant

    I have recently discovered the ibex Woolies 150 sleeveless. I have started using it as a baselayer under short and long sleeved jerseys. Super comfort, well temp regulated, massive temperature range. As long as you can deal with knowing you wearing sleeveless clothing while not in Alabama, I highly recommend them as a first line of defense against the cold.

    And some of them are on sale right now.

    http://shop.ibex.com/Apparel/Mens-Short-Sleeve/M-Woolies-Sleeveless#outlet

    #984306
    americancyclo
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 67371 wrote:

    …Looking forward to testing them tomorrow!

    Well!??!?!

    #984310
    consularrider
    Participant

    Come on, it was only 42°f this morning. Friday (or Saturday) morning at close to freezing will be a much better test. I think I’m gonna be cold for the first couple of hours of the Great Pumpkin Ride out in Warrenton on Saturday. ;)

    #984312
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @americancyclo 67427 wrote:

    Well!??!?!

    37 degrees (according to wunderground.com) when I rode in at 7am…decided to do a real test, so I just wore thin summer cycling socks. My feet were cold the moment I got out of bed and they didn’t really get “warm”, but they didn’t get truly cold either…. Basically, my feet stayed normal, with a slight bent toward cold due to my wood floors. Also, I strapped them up a bit too tight, which I think helped keep my feet from warming up, but I was too lazy to stop and fix it. Tomorrow I’ll repeat the experiment, but loosening the straps. I tried the shoes with my thickest wool socks last night and it was like slipping my foot into a bath of warm chocolate, but I think that’d be too warm for the current temps.

    Side note…to go along with the new boots, I bought a set of cheap SPD pedals (Shimano M520L) to put on my Cannondale, so I could commute on a road bike without having to either buy a set of winter road shoes or use booties. Although I’ve been riding clipless for a few years now, this new set is my first ever that’s double-sided and it’s kinda nice not having to take that half-beat to make sure your foot is in the right position to get the cleat connected.

    #985610
    Bilsko
    Participant

    The Giro New Road High Neck Zip up is absolutely superb. I just got mine in the mail a couple days ago and pretty much haven’t stopped wearing it since. On Friday’s commute with a light SaS wind shell, the Giro zip up was just the right temperature.
    The cloth-feel is soft with just the right amount of roughness – I’m not really fond of super soft merino.

    I’m 5’10/5’11 and about 145lbs and the small fits me very well.

    If I had one gripe its about the rear zipper – Giro has designed the New Road line so that you’re supposed to use the pieces together. To that effect, the zipper on the back of this shirt doesn’t open to a pocket, rather it gives you access to the rear pocket on the base layer jersey you’re supposed to be wearing below. I don’t think I’ll be wearing this with anything underneath very often, so it won’t be very useful.

    I like this one enough that I just went ahead and ordered a second.

    #986387
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    REI is having a big sale, which includes Smartwool, so last night I picked up a medium-weight base layer. In the store, I thought it felt about the same as my Endura BaaBaas, but comparing them at home the difference was readily apparent. The Smartwool is a decent bit heavier and I was amazed at how noticeable the difference was between a lightweight layer and a medium-weight layer while riding. Also, it may have been my imagination, but even though I was warmer than I would’ve liked thanks to the thicker base layer, I didn’t start cooking and get all sweaty, which would’ve been the case had I just been wearing one of my heavier jerseys. Wool is magic!

    #986442
    Greenbelt
    Participant

    FYI on Winter layering — Laurie’s doing a workshop tomorrow night at Proteus.

    1096725_10202049188127476_10202049182527336_21084_2391_b.jpg

    #986448
    Dirt
    Participant

    @Bilsko 68824 wrote:

    The Giro New Road High Neck Zip up is absolutely superb. .

    Freshbikes Mosaic has them in stock if you want to try them on too. :D

    #986449
    guga31bb
    Participant

    @Dirt 69718 wrote:

    Freshbikes Mosaic has them in stock if you want to try them on too. :D

    Is it bad form to try on stuff for sizing in a store with the intention of ordering online? I go to Freshbikes in Arlington to try things on a lot because they have decent selection but eventually feel guilty and start buying things there…

    #986450
    Greenbelt
    Participant

    @guga31bb 69719 wrote:

    Is it bad form to try on stuff for sizing in a store with the intention of ordering online? I go to Freshbikes in Arlington to try things on a lot because they have decent selection but eventually feel guilty and start buying things there…

    Sensitive topic. At Interbike this year, it was the biggest issue among retailers. They call it theft of service. I’m not so bothered, though, because sometimes people can only afford so much, and sometimes it is more convenient to order online. And some shops can be a little intimidating to newbies, which is a real problem, because the best place for newbies to learn is hanging out at a local bike shop! It was for me.

    I think it’s always good form to visit your community bike shops and check stuff out first hand, even if you can’t afford. That’s why we’re there! But it’s even better form to support them by buying what you want on the spot if you can! If you think their stuff is overpriced, let them know. However, most shops, at least out where we live, are pretty reasonable on prices — people couldn’t afford it if they weren’t. And chances are, their service will help you chose wisely, not need to make returns, get the right fit etc. Not always, but usually.

    Remember, folks at most independent LBSs and even the big REIs and chains of the world are helping local bike advocacy and teaching your neighbors, supporting local rides and infra, helping others upgrade or fix up their beaters to get back on the roads and trails. Internet bulk sellers, not so much. Nashbar won’t be there to help you when you break a spoke on the commute and need to be back on the road in the morning! And buying online to avoid sales taxes is just lame. At the very least, if you buy something online that you can’t get conveniently locally, donate to charity the 5 percent sales tax you should have paid.

    And for heaven’s sake, don’t buy a bike on the Internet unless you really, really, really know what you’re doing! So many people come into my wife’s shop lamenting that they bought the wrong bike or got the wrong fit, just because they followed a bargain hunt instead of test riding.

Viewing 15 replies - 61 through 75 (of 110 total)
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