Layers 101

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  • #909599
    Dirt
    Participant

    This may be a bit basic for folks, but I see tons of people getting it wrong, so I thought I’d write this up.

    Layers are the key to keeping warm and dry. When we talk about layers, quality and type are MUCH more important than quantity of layers. More clothes is never the right answer unless you’re wearing the right KIND of clothes.

    There are three kinds of layers: wicking, loft (insulation) and wind breaking.

    Wicking layers transfer moisture away from your skin. They’re responsible for keeping you dry. They offer a bit of insulation too, but that is not their primary purpose. These are the first layers that you put on.

    They can be as simple as an inexpensive base layer or synthetic long-underwear or as complex as high tech base layer where different zones of your body are covered with different thicknesses and textures of fabric to maximize warmth and moisture transfer. Wicking layers can be as cheap as a $8 technical t-shirt from Walmart or as expensive as $150 base layer.

    Wicking layers can be used anywhere on your body. They exist for gloves, shirts, tights, socks and even hats.

    For my core, I’ve had very good luck with inexpensive base layers made by a company called Verge. They can be found for as little as $12 for sleeveless tops. Like anything synthetic, they tend to trap odors after a while. At $12 each, it doesn’t hurt to recycle them after a year.

    My favorite for this time of year are made of merino wool. They’re soft, warm and have a very wide temperature range. They cost $40-80 each and are made by a variety of manufacturers.

    Loft layers provide insulation. They create dead air space between your outer layers and wicking layers. Moisture must transmit through, but their primary source is to hold your body heat in. Winter jerseys often have a little fleece on the inside to provide loft. Microfleece can work well for this. Some jackets (soft shells) have fleece in them too to add loft.

    Wind Breaking layers are meant to keep wind and wet out while allowing perspiration to leave. Seems simple, eh? It isn’t. If they don’t breathe well enough, it is very easy to overheat, sweat and soak yourself… thus causing a serious danger of freezing. Most simply, vents are holes in high temp areas under your arms or on your back to let sweat and some heat out. More complex venting can be done using fancy laminated fabrics that keep moisture out, but let your skin breathe. Gore-Tex is the one that comes to mind most readily, but there are many other fabrics on the market that do this. The best jackets, vests, pants, gloves use a combination of high tech fabrics and simple venting to balance keeping warmth in and getting/keeping moisture out.

    Wind breaking layers can be as inexpensive as a simple nylon windbreaker or can cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Same with tights, pants and gloves.

    You’ll notice I have been talking most about keeping my core (torso) warm. While the layers really apply to most places on the body, the key part that I concentrate on is keeping my core at the right temperature.

    Combination Layers: There are wicking layers that have loft. There are insulating layers with wind/water breaking panels. There are wicking layers with wind breaking layers. I use them from time to time… particularly wind breaking layers with a bit of loft.

    The Tricky Part: What to wear when?

    This is personal preference. I know you hate that answer. We’re all different in the way we ride, the amount of heat we give off and how quickly we chill. Personally I sweat more than normal humans. Venting is critical. Most of my jackets/vests/tights for cold weather have a mesh back to let the excess heat out. The wind protection on the front holds enough warmth to keep me from freezing and all that venting in the back keeps me from boiling.

    My friend Barbara FREAKS when I talk like that because she’s very different. She needs more insulation everywhere because she neither generates heat like I do, nor does she retain it like I do. (That’s NOT a social statement by any means. ) ;) I guess it is physiological. In my 35+ years of winter riding, I’ve known women and men that are at both extremes of the heat generation/retention continuum.

    On the 40 degree mornings we’ve had lately, I’ve been wearing summer cycling shorts, knee warmers with a wind protective patch over the fronts of my knees, a pair of baggy mountain bike knickers over the top to keep wind out. Up top I’ll wear a light base layer with a winter jersey for loft and a wind-front vest to keep my core warm. Below 40 and I’ll go to a long sleeve jacket… still mesh backed.

    All of us are going to be different in the combinations that we use. I stated that above as an example.

    I promised that this would be brief and to the point. I’ve obviously wandered.

    Next topic: Specific layers that I’ve used that work well for me.

    What works for you?

Viewing 15 replies - 46 through 60 (of 110 total)
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  • #982411
    Dirt
    Participant

    @Bilsko 65359 wrote:

    The Assos Factory outlet has their glove system for sale for $137. NOT CHEAP, and the % discount isn’t great either, but its worth considering. 3 pairs, from light (liner style), to med, to mitt.

    Sizing was weird for me on those. I wear a medium in the liner, large in the early-winter (the middle one) and an I think the XL on the overmitt wasn’t quite big enough. I bought the first two without ever buying the third. Assos didn’t make the over mitt last year. They have a new one coming out this year. I don’t know if it is different.

    #982412
    Dirt
    Participant

    @acl 65368 wrote:

    I also have the northwave celsius boots and while I have limited shoe cover experience so can’t much compare, I did find the boots to be reasonably warm and fully waterproof– even in heavy rains when some of my other waterproof clothing wasn’t so much. ..

    My buddy Sean loves his. He’s got Lake Boots too and he says the NorthWaves kick butt. Much lighter and virtually as warm.

    #982413
    hozn
    Participant

    Good to hear about the waterproofness of the Northwaves. If I can get some longer rain pants then I will put that to the test! The one time I tried them in rain, I just got water funneled down into the shoe. That was unpleasant.

    Covers are very versatile, but it’s also nice just being able to put on a pair of shoes and head out the door.

    #982414
    Dirt
    Participant

    @hozn 65373 wrote:

    Good to hear about the waterproofness of the Northwaves. If I can get some longer rain pants then I will put that to the test!

    I use mountaineering gaters to add the height that I need for waterproofing my Lake Boots. Sizing is weird since most gaters are designed to go over doubleboots. I took my winter shoes to REI and tried different ones until I got some that fit tight. I’m able to do creek crossings up almost to my knees and keep my feet dry. They’re not perfect. I usually get about 4 creek crossings per ride before they start to leak.

    #982415
    hozn
    Participant

    Ah, that is a great tip, thanks!

    #982420
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @acl 65368 wrote:

    I also have the northwave celsius boots and while I have limited shoe cover experience so can’t much compare, I did find the boots to be reasonably warm and fully waterproof– even in heavy rains when some of my other waterproof clothing wasn’t so much. My only real problem is that I could probably use a half size bigger on the coldest days to accommodate thicker socks and as nearly as I can tell, they don’t make half sizes in my size range. But the fact that they make *any* sizes in my size range– and enough of them that I could find some– is a point (if a grudgingly made one) in their favor (though likely not one that twowheels cares much about unless he is shopping for his wife).

    ‘course, I am on the short-limbed side of things so “My Gore rain pants are not exceptionally long” is not really an issue for me…

    Good info…my main concern is waterproof-ness, so your post allays my concerns…and honestly, I can get the road version and the MTB for the same price as the Sidis I’m considering.

    #982425
    eminva
    Participant

    What cleat system do these Northwave Celcius boots work with?

    In years past, I alternated between shoe covers and flat pedals/winter boots, but my old boots are giving up the ghost and the shoe covers are so tedious twice a day, so I’m considering my options. Thanks.

    Liz

    #982433
    Dirt
    Participant

    @eminva 65385 wrote:

    What cleat system do these Northwave Celcius boots work with?

    They are SPD compatible, so they work with mountain bike pedals.

    #982441
    hozn
    Participant

    Yeah, I believe the Fahrenheit is the equivalent model for 3-bolt road cleats.

    #982470
    FFX_Hinterlands
    Participant

    Ibex is having a sale right now. I picked up an merino base layer (Woolies 1/4 zip) for $35. It’s orange. Really orange. http://shop.ibex.com/Outlet/Mens

    #982475
    NicDiesel
    Participant

    So, I have no intention of not riding from January through March outside in the Twin Cities so I need your help. Who makes good windproof jackets and gear (layers over long sleeved jerseys) for someone that wears a 3XL top?

    #983436
    eminva
    Participant

    Hello —

    Does anyone have any familiarity with the Northwave Arctic Commuter? It looks like it is a commuter version of the Celsius boots — distinguished mainly by a lower temperature rating and the addition of hi-viz yellow.

    They are a bit more spendy than the Celsius, but it is just degrees of difference at that price, I suppose.

    Should I be the guinea pig?

    Liz

    #983440
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @eminva 66467 wrote:

    Hello —

    Does anyone have any familiarity with the Northwave Arctic Commuter? It looks like it is a commuter version of the Celsius boots — distinguished mainly by a lower temperature rating and the addition of hi-viz yellow.

    They are a bit more spendy than the Celsius, but it is just degrees of difference at that price, I suppose.

    Should I be the guinea pig?

    Liz

    I just noticed those this morning…from what I can tell, the Arctics are probably a bit warmer than I’d need on a day-to-day basis, as I’d prefer to have shoes that work in slightly warmer, wet weather too. And the yellow seems like a bit of a gimmick. If I go with the NWs, I’ll probably just get the normal Celsius.

    #983441
    consularrider
    Participant

    @eminva 66467 wrote:

    Hello —

    Does anyone have any familiarity with the Northwave Arctic Commuter? It looks like it is a commuter version of the Celsius boots — distinguished mainly by a lower temperature rating and the addition of hi-viz yellow.

    They are a bit more spendy than the Celsius, but it is just degrees of difference at that price, I suppose.

    Should I be the guinea pig?

    Liz

    Love the hi-viz version! Rating at -25°C – 5°C (-13°F – 41°F) would work great all winter here!

    #983477
    tuba_transport
    Participant

    @Dirt 65372 wrote:

    My buddy Sean loves his. He’s got Lake Boots too and he says the NorthWaves kick butt. Much lighter and virtually as warm.

    The Northwave Celsius Arctic GTX. The Arctic version is supposed to be warmer than the non-Arctic. I don’t know, never tried the non-Arctic.

    I have Lake boots from a few years ago. They are still useful in deep snow or if the temps go below 20 degrees. Both of those have been rare the past couple years though.

    I bought the Northwave boots because I tried their summer shoes and they were a great fit for my wide feet. I wanted a lighter boot. The boots also have a spacious toebox, which is essential for thick socks. If your winter boots are not loose then they are not warm no matter what you are wearing. Circulation is key. I wear the same sized Northwave boot as Northwave summer shoe because the toe box is so big.

    I RARELY wear my Lake boots anymore. The Northwave’s are way way way waaaaaay lighter. Nearly summer shoe light, especially compared to the Lakes. They claim to have a water resistant lining, but when it rains your feet will get wet due mostly to the short tops on them. If it is rain an in the 30s I will pull out the Lakes.

    With all that said, the Northwaves rock. I can wear my Arctics comfortably up to 45F. Too hot above that temp. But then again 40F is about the transition temp for me to wear wool socks and toe covers on summer shoes anyway. The weight of the Northwave shoes cannot be understated. They are so much more efficient than the heavier Lake boots.

    I have worn mine very comfortably from about 25-45 degrees. I did race Snotcycle this year in them when the temp was 19F. For that I added a toe chem warmer and my feet were very happy.

    For anyone entertaining the idea of purchasing the 3-bolt road cleat version of any boot, DON’T. Road cleats are USELESS in snow and ice. Step off the bike one time and the cleat fills with ice and you don’t get clipped back in. Invest in MTB pedals for winter if you have not already. Road soles are also USELESS to walk on in perfect summer conditions. Now try walking on them on ice and snow. Get the MTB pedals for winter.

    This winter will be my third season on my Northwave boots. I will wear them every day the temp stays below 45F just like the past 2 seasons. The boot is essentially as good as new, unlike Lakes which fall apart every season.

    One of the best pieces of kit I own.

    BTW, I wrote down what works for me at different temps and edit it year after year to adjust to new insights and my evolving needs for winter clothing. Here is my personal FAQ I refer to for myself each Autumn so I don’t have to reinvent the wheel every year when I try to remember what worked 6 months ago.

    https://docs.google.com/document/d/1ynG_e-u1JNPF8pudUURLVRF0PPXxkBghoICRsfva2CI/edit?usp=sharing

Viewing 15 replies - 46 through 60 (of 110 total)
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