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@ctankcycles 156519 wrote:

STA is 73°. HTA is 71.5°. The plan is for a Force 1 group. I’m sort of torn between 1x and double. I’m sold on 1x for cx racing and trail riding but I’m worried that the gaps in gearing and limited range could make it less ideal for long, mixed surface rides where other riders have road doubles. Sometimes I think about running 1x for three months of the year during cx season and swapping to a double for the other 9 months but I’m going to give the 1x a chance and see how it goes. I don’t mind the extra cable stop that won’t be used when it’s set up as a 1x. Will look like this…

Re tire clearance, I’m planning on a 700c wheelset that I’ll run for cx and gravel rides and a 650b so I have the option to run tires like the WTB Horizon or a 2.2 knobby. Chainring max will likely be 42t. This Crema provided some inspiration… http://theradavist.com/2016/08/my-agave-marginata-crema-duo-cross-bike/#1

Very nice! I want to try 650b on my Warbird, although by eye the rear chainstays bow around the 700c tire diameter clearance and look like they won’t handle 650b 2.2s.

I’m also not sold on 1x probably because I’m using the Warbird as my main geared bike (road as well as gravel/etc.) and wonder if a high gear of say, 42×11 will be too limiting. And on gravel there have been times where I’ve wished for lower than 1:1 and if I try it out on singletrack, etc. I bet that’d happen as well. I always thought I might enjoy having my 34 little ring with a wide range cassette (36T or more).

This winter I did swap my old SSCX pit bike to 1×10 with a 42T narrow-wide to try out and had it spin out in the default resistance setting range of a Computrainer during harder efforts. A very minor example obviously (and the setting chould’ve been changed higher) but I imagine a 46T+ front ring probably would’ve been fine.

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Probably an older photo but such a nice frameset and wheels with… BB7s?

My Warbird’s fork is thru axle with external routing and hidden fender mounts I think. Never looked too closely for the fender mounts though.

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I think I had a 12-30 on the final iteration of my road bike, even with a 6700 Ultegra RD and compact double. (It’s since been switched to a fixed gear, and I just use my gravel bike for all non-MTB rides that need gears.)

@rcannon100 155801 wrote:

Happy New Bike Day Peter![ATTACH=CONFIG]13956[/ATTACH]

slam it!

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Guess it’s good I didn’t host the n+1 comp this year!

Robin Williams’ collection was still my favourite.

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I don’t have experience with mtb tubeless but for CX tires I just bring two spare tubes and hope for the best! Haven’t yet needed them, but as I only use a regular floor pump to seat my tires my hope is that I could use a tube to get them on fairly solidly should the need arise. I do pre-stretch my tubeless tires on rims with a tube before I do the soapy tubeless “ping-pop”. I also wear safety glasses and earmuffs as I have accidentally over-inflated and shredded a few tubes, and it’s never pleasant (although – hopefully I’ve learned my lessons now). I have specifically avoided say, WTB tires on Stan’s rims.

I have had a regular non-tubeless clincher not seat properly on a Stan’s rim after a flat during a ride but it was only a mile or two from the car, so I was fine just riding slightly more carefully for the rest of the way.

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@drevil 154861 wrote:

Also, it helps to use a bike that doesn’t have floppy or twitchy steering. When I tried it on some friends’ fat bikes, if you turn a little, the front wheel will flop immediately and you’d go down quick. As for twitchy, I can’t ride no handed for too long on my Brompton. Maybe I just need more practice on that one.

Agreed. My folding bike is the only one I can’t comfortably ride no-handed on.

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I’d build in this case – can probably find a used 26″ frameset for a few hundred, and a decent 26″ wheelset+tires for cheap too. Pretty sure places like bikesdirect still have cheap 26″ MTBs as well.

Surly is an option for a nicer frameset if you want to keep it for ages, want a ton of braze-ons and don’t mind some weight. The 1×1 and Troll are designed around 26″ wheels.

FWIW my wife (who admittedly, rarely rides) has no problems on my 26″ MTB but finds the 29er too unwieldy.

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@TwoWheelsDC 155096 wrote:

Keeping my original crank was never an option. It’s crap…about as stiff as a wet noodle and creaky. Also, the current crankset, while theoretically compatible with my Stages PM (it’s GXP spindle, but “Oval Concepts” brand), has 172.5 arms, but my Stages is a 170mm. So I went with a 170mm Rival 1 crankset, which should allow me to put my Stages on this bike (it’s currently on my Cinelli), assuming SRAM didn’t radically change the Rival NDS arms…guess I’ll find out soon enough!

I have a first-gen Rival GXP Stages 170mm and it fits on both the older Rival crankset on my Raleigh RXS and the newer Rival 22 crankset on my Warbird. The only difference that comes to mind is there are no washers between the pedal and cranks on the Rival 22 arms.

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Anyone familiar with or used either of these before? They’re both “custom” made bags for bikes that require a bit more assembly – fork removal (and probably won’t fit larger frames, 29ers, etc.).

http://www.gavilanbff.com/
https://orucase.com/

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If you are going to be locking up a lot in public places and Metro stations I would consider a cheaper or used bike. No lock is unbreakable and a shiny new bike with disc brakes is probably going to be a nice target. I had a few nicer wheelsets/tires for longer/weekend rides on my Kona Jake partly because of that.

That said I’d also look the GT Grade and Diamondback Haanjo options, although it’s actually pretty hard to go wrong with a CX/gravel/adventure bike. I’ve shopped new for them twice now and recently upgraded to a Salsa Warbird – but I got it with the express knowledge that I would not be locking it up on a street somewhere unattended.

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@jrenaut 155046 wrote:

What even is a chainset

UK version of “crankset”. Although I think it implies that the chainrings are included. Whereas “crankset” is not specific wrt chainrings.

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I remember when I upgraded my brifters from Shimano Tiara to One-hundred-and-five.

I will admit “chainset” always weirds me out.

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@jrenaut 155021 wrote:

Sort it by bump % – then the riders at the top are the ones who got the biggest bump from Steve O’s system, meaning they rode more on days when everyone else rode less.

I think this brief interpretation is a little misleading if you don’t look too closely at the boost system. It just means the score was boosted more as a proportion of the riders’ original score – which means their riding habits have them doing a higher share of their miles on days where there’s less rides recorded overall. It doesn’t mean others rode less miles on those days. A 27% boost on 700 pts is a lot less extra points than a 24% boost on 2000 pts.

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@SolarBikeCar 154971 wrote:

troll as that Is a given and is not original.

You were baiting with your first post! It wasn’t the trike that got ya banned from FS.

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@Steve O 154944 wrote:

Or wait until something breaks. That’s what I did when I went from 3x to 1x. It was after my FD crapped out (It might have been the shifter; I can’t recall anymore exactly what went wrong). I actually ran it on 1x for several months through the end of FS2015 by adjusting the limit screws on the FD to the middle ring. I learned I didn’t really need the other rings, so I got rid of them and put a chain guard on the outside. I’m actually at 1×8 right now due to a little mixup, but will get back to 1×9 before long. My lowest gear is 42/32. I did Kill Bill with this setup.
My bike still weighs more than 30 pounds, so it wasn’t about weight for me; it was getting rid of 3 things that can break.

I did something similar on my beater bike. FD stopped working, so I just cut the FD cable. It was a 3×7, then a 1×7 that would sometimes drop to the little ring. I’ve since invested a little more to make it a 1×10 and it works great even for towing a 50lb kid.

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