[Harry Meatmotor]

didn’t snag a picture (cause my phone is a POS) but it looks like DDOT is adding zebra curbing to the portion of the cycletrack that’s been painted green. so there’s that…

[Harry Meatmotor]

one real quick nit to pick – tho the spacer on the ND fork fender mount is clever, i’m seeing catastrophic failure the first time something whacks into that mount (and those rack/fender mounts are pretty easy to bend/ruin). what i’d recommend (of you’re not planning on running a set of low-boy front pannies) is to run the fender stays to the mid-fork braze on. not quite as classy looking, but much less exposed to possibly bending and ruining the threads on the dropout rack mount. my 2 pennies.

edit2 – you might even be able to run the fender stays to the interior mid-stay braze-on, depending on how wide the tires are and how tightly that bends the stays. might actually be pretty trick since you’ll keep the exterior braze-on to mount up some low-boys.

@hozn 84882 wrote:

How do the Hy/Rd work?

My experience so far at the shop is that they’re a compromise. They pretty much require the Yokozuna compressionless housing, and good luck getting the OEMs to spec housing that’s 5-6 times more expensive than bulk non-compressionless. If you’re doing a frame up build and use the Reaction housing, the HY/RDs will probably feel pretty good.

[Harry Meatmotor]

You should probably start with the rear derailleur. Since you’ll need to have the rear derailleur shifted into the smallest and largest cogs to set the limit screws on the front derailleur (to keep the chain from rubbing the front derailleur cage), it’s best to get the rear sorted out first.

[Harry Meatmotor]

dude – that thing is freakin’ BOSS!!!

[Harry Meatmotor]

harry meatmotor;83886 wrote:

the new high-speed steed: 54cm spec. Allez smartweld with some force22 hung on it. I’ll be repurposing the november rails for this bike. The salsa pistola will keep the hed belgiums laced to king hubs for good.

[attach=config]5413[/attach][attach=config]5414[/attach]

oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy!!!!!

[attach=config]5548[/attach]

[Harry Meatmotor]

In related news:

http://www.bikerumor.com/2014/05/08/new-strava-metro-feature-shows-government-how-cyclists-are-using-city-streets/

MOAR DATAs!

[Harry Meatmotor]

@cyclingfool 84694 wrote:

As has been noted before, any day of the year can be a bike on the GW Parkway Day — if you’re brave enough. The fee for participation is reportedly around $200. See this guy for for more info:

see, the trick is to be able to keep up with 35mph-45mph traffic, like the guy I saw on a TT bike being motorpaced by his significant other on a moped a couple years ago.

[Harry Meatmotor]

One interesting thing to note about the ACS (from which that report is written) is that the ACS is run year-round, and there’s a good chance that the cycling to work population is underrepresented regionally. This is a difficult thing to deal with in the statistics because they represent such a small portion of the population, too; properly weighting 0.6% of a population is dicey. Unless you’re competing in the freezing saddles competition, when the survey asks you “did you bike to work last week?” in February and you answer “i haven’t been on a bike all month!”, the ACS is going to assume you rarely bike to work, year on year. Also, comparing the Census numbers (only captured in April) to the ACS is dicey for behaviors with seasonal/regional variability, especially with small populations. I hope somebody at national bike challenge is gearing up to produce some yummy stats from all the data they’re collecting!

tl;dr – those ACS numbers are probably a little low; actual numbers probably higher.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@Geoff 84621 wrote:

to find suitable components to maintain the bike

this can be as deep and dark a black hole as you want it to be. Some general guidance for 70’s vintage road racing bikes: Italian bikes usually have Italian parts and in most cases are very much worth keeping to either sell the parts or refurbish them (refurbishing is where you can spend vast amounts of time and money, much like restoring vintage or antique cars). French and Belgian bikes usually have French/Belgian parts and very seldom are they worth keeping. If you find a French/Belgian bike with Italian parts, it’s usually worth keeping. English bikes are not very common stateside (aside from Raliegh), so in general they may not be the nicest, but they may represent good value. German/Austrian bikes are generally even more elusive, but usually of poor quality (damn near unridable the few that i’ve seen personally). There was one Austrian manufacturer that did actually make some nice bikes, but very few were imported to the US. If you see a German or Austrian bike with italian components, definitely grab it! American vintage road racing bikes with quality tubesets are generally keepers, though the French vs. Italian thing applies to the components, too. You’ll definitely see a handful of Japanese vintage rr bikes around, but most are only middling quality.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@cyclingfool 84642 wrote:

I’m 75% sure it was Maryland.

so do we now start calling muralind drivers the “75%-ers”?

[Harry Meatmotor]

@krazygl00 84597 wrote:

Ever-so-slightly blurry. What did you drink last night? :p

per teh intarweb parlance: sorry! img taken w/ potato.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@Bilsko 84564 wrote:

Must have been after 530/6PM, right? I was on my regular Ohio Dr route at about 530 and didn’t see anything going on.

I passed it right about 4:15pm and there was only one MPD cruiser and and an NPS motorbike there (aside from the cruiser wrapped around the tree). Maybe he thought the tree was a cyclist? (groan…) Imagine explaining that one to your super.

[Harry Meatmotor]

while trying to take this picture, i inadvertently took a fuzzy cockpit pic.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5528[/ATTACH]

edit: something about “fuzzy cockpit pic” makes me giggle.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@krazygl00 84209 wrote:

The frame in question is actually scandium and has 130mm dropout spacing and disc mounts. There are not that many options for 130mm disc hubs. I’m sure disc rotor alignment also further complicates matters. I’m pretty sure I know the answer to this already but I’m reaching.

You’ll be fine. Asking a tubular aluminum chainstay & seatstay to bend 2.5mm over ~420mm of chainstay length isn’t coming anywhere near plastically deforming the structure. I’d be a little tiny bit worried if you were taking the wheels off the bike everyday or something. Also, if it’s a disk frameset, it may not have chainstay or seatstay bridges, and there’d be even more length of tubing to take the minor bending.

[Harry Meatmotor]

All i gotta say is this morning was:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5527[/ATTACH]

[Author]

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