[EasyRider]

@dkel 160706 wrote:

My mechanical discs are not noticeably more efficient for braking than rim brakes I use. Most importantly for me, though, discs are way nicer for commuting because they require far less attention during and after riding in crappy weather: they function more consistently, last longer, and make far less mess in the wet and muck.

Can you recommend pads for the BB7, if that’s what you have? I’ve found that most rim brake pads suck, only Kool-Stops work, and work well they do. Is the same with discs, that all the stock pads mostly suck and everyone buys a replacement that doesn’t?

[EasyRider]

Another thing that I’m curious about re: disc brakes is the perception of stopping power, and actual stopping power. For example, remember the first time you used V-brakes instead of cantilevers or sidepulls? I do. It was in 2003, on my new Giant Yukon. At least in dry conditions, for the first few weeks, I was very conscious of how easy it would be to lock up the wheel without much hand effort. In that case, there was indeed more stopping power compared to the rim brakes I’d been using.

But, I’m kinda skeptical that my mechanical disc brakes will be more powerful than my rim brakes, if only because the innards of a disc caliper are unknown to me. They are both cable-actuated, but a disc brake forms a shorter lever than does the rim brake, so as I understand it, a disc caliper has gotta squeeze the rotor a lot harder than a rim brake has to squeeze the rim in order to stop the wheel. So there’s a tradeoff there, and I’m wondering if the BB7s will FEEL more powerful than my rim brakes, but not actually be more powerful — at least in the dry conditions I mostly ride. If so, that’s OK. I’m not sure I need or should have more stopping power in dry conditions than I have already. Better brake feel, though, that’s always welcome.

Related — WHY are hydraulic disc brakes are more powerful than mechanicals? Maybe vicegrip or hozn can summarize?

[EasyRider]

@hozn 160658 wrote:

the modulation and control of the hydro brakes on MTB is a *lot* nicer.

I am also looking forward to my first disc brake bike, in a week or two. My expectations are pretty muted (BB7s). Even though they are mechanicals, I hope the modulation is better and the hand strength required is less than what I’m used to with various cantilever and sidepull setups. If the BB7s work as well as my Paul touring cantis and non-aero levers, I’ll be satisfied.

[EasyRider]

@LooseFur 160566 wrote:

So, what do you recommend to a guy who wants a straightforward and clean drop bar road bike for the commute?

I’d recommend a steel road bike with clearance for at least 28mm tires with fenders. Depending on budget, I’d either look for 1980s Trek or the like, or have my LBS order a Surly Pacer or Soma ES frame+fork.
As others have said, if you can take the components off your cracked frame and put them on a new or used frame, that’s a great way to go.

[EasyRider]

Looks like steel so you could try taking the cage off the body and putting it in a bench vise to bend it back. But these things are so common and inexpensive that it might not be worth your time. I would just grab a used one on ebay or from a member here. A new Shimano Acera or Shimano Sora derailleur will prob work just fine. The Sora might require a narrower 9-speed chain.

[EasyRider]

@bentbike33 160265 wrote:

Hope you’re not doing this to riders who are being PALs and waiting to pass you until sightlines improve and/or oncoming trail traffic is clear.

You don’t need to sit on someone’s wheel to do those things. In fact, one can’t see if the coast is clear or if there is oncoming traffic if one is doing that. The rider in front is blocking the field of view.

[EasyRider]

I just immediately slow down to a crawl when I notice a drafter. Saves me from saying something to them I’ll regret, and from being rear-ended by them if I have to suddenly stop.

[EasyRider]

@KayakCyndi 160079 wrote:

Of course Hans is welcome to do that but he needs thru-axle and specs that I don’t have. But just to test fit, anytime.

How do you like the tires? A little more tread than WTB Horizons, looks like?

[EasyRider]

Saw a herd of bike cops heading east on Constitution around 9 am, then turn left on Henry Bacon. Best part? No irate, honking drivers.

[EasyRider]

Glad you got it resolved! You were able to straighten the hanger and can now access all 9 cogs?

[EasyRider]

Your derailleur hanger doesn’t really look bent to me, but as you say, not a great picture. Maybe, it’s off a bit since your wreck. Certainly a bent hanger is a suspect, because ever since then, with new chains and new rear derailleurs and new cassettes, you’ve had trouble getting the chain onto the largest cogs and keeping it there.

No offense intended, but if it’s not a bent derailleur hanger, I’d look at installation error, since you’ve replaced most everything else, and the problem you had with the Sora RD is now repeating itself with the Tiagra. Even improper pinch bolt orientation can influence shifting. If you’ve already followed the Big Blue Book to a ‘t’, then disregard.

Re: the sticky link chain from the bin … did the LBS install it for you, or did they sell it to you and you installed it yourself? I wouldn’t be in a hurry to return to a shop that installed a new chain without checking it’s operation through the range of gears — especially if they knew the last chain had snapped in use and caused the bike to wreck!

[EasyRider]

@huskerdont 159757 wrote:

Limits from limiting screws are fine–the derailleur can move to all positions, it just doesn’t want to stay on the largest cog unless I adjust it so much that it won’t go to the smallest.

How are you accomplishing this?

[EasyRider]

What shifter are you using?

[EasyRider]

Could it be a shifter/rear derailleur compatibility issue?

[EasyRider]

@jabberwocky 159632 wrote:

A lot of cheap stock headsets are totally unsealed. It doesn’t surprise me at all. Rain runs right through the headset on my road bike. All I can do to give it a decent service interval is use a heavy marine grease that takes a long time to wash out.

I would get any unit that uses sealed cartridge bearings. If it gets gritty, you just drop new ones in. No worrying about regular servicing. My experience with the thicker marine grease and basic unsealed 1″ headsets is that if it is too thick the bearings actually don’t roll around inside the retainer rings. The whole retainer ring and balls slides as a unit inside the cups and things wear quickly, so you get indexing in no time.

Lizard Skins makes a small neoprene/velcro cover that you can use to cover the bottom of your headset. It does a good job of keeping grit out of the lower races, especially if you are riding in muck without fenders. Only thing is, it doesn’t work with CK headsets. You can’t spend $100+ on a CK headset and then cover it with a 5 dollar scrap of fabric or the CK will self-destruct.

[Author]

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