Dirt
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Dirt
ParticipantI rode in with it this morning. It is a Light and Motion Stella 120. It isn’t anything fancy, but it works. I’ll ride home with it to get an idea of run time. I had forgotten how cool this little thing is.
Dirt
ParticipantAt 50 miles per week, you’re probably pretty well off with an annual tune-up… Maybe one early in the season and then another trip to the shop for adjustments if needed.
Between that, you should lubricate the chain every month or so… more often if you ride in the wet. I suggest a high-tech lube like Pro-link. Follow the directions on the bottle. Clean your chain before the first application. Clean Streak is my cleaner of choice. Let it dry. Apply a good layer of lube to the chain. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry over night. Wipe again before you ride in the morning.
Leonard Zinn has written two great books on bicycle maintenance. “Zinn and the art of Road or Mountain Bike Maintenance” are the titles. Sheldon Brown, may he rest in peace, (http://www.sheldonbrown.com) is also arguably one of the best resources anywhere.
To answer your specific question, i talked about it on the way home with a friend.
Road bike gets ridden 60-100 miles per week. It gets a chain lube 1/month and 1 full service (complete tear down with new cables, housing, and clean/lube all the bearings.)
Fixie gets between 150-200 miles per week. This bike is so simple that I change brake pads when they wear down… twice per year, and lube the chain when it squeaks.
The mountain bike is a single speed and gets similar maintenance to the Fixie. I ride the mountain bike similarly to the road bike 60-100 miles per week as an alternative to the road bike.Tires need to be changed if they show signs of wear. Excessive flats, threads showing through or dry rot are good signs that it is time to change them. I get about 5000 miles out of a good set of road tires, 15-20,000 miles out of a set of touring tires. I change both tires at the same time. I don’t rotate tires. If you do, always put the new tire on front. Never put a worn tire on the front. That is your main braking and steering tire and you want the best one there.
I replace cables and housing for shifters and brake levers once per year on all of my bikes.
Your road bike brake pads have a wear line on them. If you they are getting close to the wear line, replace them. If you don’t go through a whole set in a year, then you can have them replaced with your annual service.
Mountain bike disc brake pads can last longer. I don’t ride my mountain bike that much, but I do change the pads every other year. If you have hydraulic disc brakes, it is good to have them bleed every 1-2 years depending on how much you ride.
Suspension forks require regular maintenance. If you ride a lot and experience no problems, you can probably have them serviced every other year. If you see oil leaking or find that they’re a bit too boingie and don’t have the same damping they used to, get them serviced more often. Read the manual on your fork. Most forks have basic service that YOU should do every week that you ride it. Very few people ever do that and they pay the price with replacing their fork long before they have to. There’s no reason a suspension fork shouldn’t last a decade or more if cared for correctly. I have my original Manitou fork (first production suspension fork ever) from 1990. It is in perfect working condition and I still ride it. I have a rock shox Reba from 2006 that didn’t survive a season because I was lazy.
I suggest replacing the chain often. If you wait until the chain wears and stretches, you’ll end up having to replace the chain, cogs and chainrings at the same time. I change my chain every 2-3000 miles. I can get 8-10,000 miles out of a set of cogs and chainrings. If your chain gets too worn, putting a new one on will cause the chain to slip on the cogs and chainrings. Your bike will never shift right. Then you need to replace all three. That’s expensive.
Wheels may need to be trued. That can happen any time based upon where you’re riding. They should be trued with your spring tune-up.
I periodically inspect the frame for damage. Cracks, ripples in the paint, bulges in the metal, etc are signs that the frame needs repair or replacement. With my featherweight carbon bike (with carbon forks and wheels and seat post) I do that when I wipe down the frame before and after every ride. The service interval for my old steel bikes is much less. My current fixie gets inspected once every 2-3 years or when it starts making a noise I can’t explain. That bike will survive the apocalypse.
Many shops have service plans when you buy a bike from them. They’ll do a basic tune-up once per year for a while after you buy the bike. Some will do “lifetime adjustments” for you. That is a great service. It won’t mean free service, because other things go wrong. It gives them a good chance to make sure your bike is running well and that you ahve a few minutes to shop in their store while they’re wrenching. It is a good thing for both cyclist and bike shop.
Those are my basic guidelines. I don’t think I left anything out. I’m sure some folks will disagree with them, but those should work pretty well for you.
This hardly fits the description of a quick reply. Oh well.
Pete
Dirt
ParticipantBikeman is just starting to get their Nokians in stock. Bikeman has them at about $70.
I believe they’re supplied by QBP, so you can have your local shop should be able to order them. You might check and see.
Bikeman just got the 29×2.1″ Extreme 294s in stock. I think they arrived yesterday.
Good luck. You’re looking for the exact tires I use.
Dirt
ParticipantHey Josh. Thanks for your post.
What about the Custis trail do you think needs maintenance? There are some tree-root-induced bumps leading into the bridge over Lee Hwy just west of Lyon Village. There are a few puddles here and there that become lovely ice patches in the next month or two. Much of the section between Lyon Village east to Rosslyn were repaved this year. There are a variety of dips at different spots. I guess it could use a little love. I’m not aware of anything really horrible on it. I guess my expectations are pretty low.
As for the Rosslyn Death Zone… I’d love to see something done there. All 4 or 5 of those intersections are very dangerous…. not because of any design issue with the intersections… just because cars often don’t yield or look for bikes. I’ve been hit at 4 of the intersections once in the last 2 years. I survived all with bruises and soreness. Each of the people who hit me were very polite and nice. I always get hit by the nicest people.
The easy solution that would help the intersection @Lynn street most would be a combination of a “No turn on right” sign, a longer dedicated walk signal and a 2-week enforcement campaign for both Cyclists and motorists. Cars are not the only ones doing stupid things at that intersection. Cyclists and pedestrians are the ones with the most to lose there though.
Belated welcome to the area. Welcome to the forum. I look forward to hearing your response.
Pete
Dirt
ParticipantI follow Exposure lights on Facebook and Twitter. They did a “Say something nice about us publicly and we’ll give you free stuff” thing on Facebook. I won. They sent me one of their new Flare tail lights. It is the best I’ve ever seen. It is tiny, light weight and has a really good attachment system. It is a little brighter than my Planet Bike, 1/2 the weight and gives better light visibility from the side. Best of all, the attachment system is very robust and does not make the light disposable when a small clip breaks.
@SQ: Look at the Joystick and also the Diablo. Diablo is $50 more expensive but it adds a high power setting that, when combined with a phase conjugate mirror and tracking system, can vaporize a human target from space. (Just kidding about that last part.) Just look at it when you’re making your decision.
Also @SQ: In the meantime, I’ve got a little Light and Motion 120 lumen light that you can borrow for a few weeks if you need. I haven’t used it in a while. It has a dumb-charger. Which means that if you leave it on to charge for more than 8 hours you’ll fry the battery. With that in mind, it worked great for me for quite a while. Let me know if that will help. I’ll stick it on to charge tonight and make sure it is still working for tomorrow’s commute.
@Americancyclo: The Minewt lights are really cool. I know a bunch of people that have had great luck with them. Glad that’s working well for you.Pete
Dirt
ParticipantThe signs are all still there Falls Church still has public works trucks going around checking them every morning. I see them every morning on my ride to work. Cool that they’re keeping an eye on things.
Dirt
ParticipantI blame pat. He’s nothng but trouble.
Dirt
ParticipantMy Nokians are starting their third season. I use them if there are icy patches. That means there are days where they get ridden 28 miles on pavement and 100ft on ice. They’re still going strong.
I’ve done some home-made ice tires with mountain bike tires, wood screws and duct tape. They were okay in the snow and ice, but pretty much disintigrated when I rode them on pavement.
Dirt
ParticipantJoe’s post brings out some very good information about me. I’m probably insane. I have this pathological dislike of driving. What’s worse, is that I love cars. If you can figure that out, please enlighten me because I don’t get it.
The bottom line is this: I will go to amazing lengths to not drive my lovely, wonderful, and very warm, cozy car. I was forced to for almost 6 weeks last winter because of a dislocated shoulder. I spent $3000 on a recumbent trike so that I could get back to commuting under human power 5 weeks earlier.
Back on topic: One of my all-time favorite articles of insulating layers are Roubaix shorts. Roubaix cloth is a kind of lycra that is lined with fleece. Lots of winter tights and jerseys are made from it. I have found that Hincapie, Rapha, Giordana, Special-ed (aka Specialized), Nalini and many more companies make shorts from the stuff. They’re brilliant. Add knee warmers and you’ve got knickers. Add leg warmers and you’ve got tights. Wear them under tights and you have an awesome extra bit of warmth for your gentleman vegetables.
If you ride a lot in the fall or early spring, you’ll love these things. Truly amazing.
Dirt
ParticipantPerfect contribution, sir. Practical, reasonable and effective.
November 11, 2010 at 12:53 am in reply to: Looking for advice on front bike light to see by? #923958Dirt
ParticipantExposure Joystick.
A little more money than you’re talking about, but it is truly an amazing light.
http://exposurelightsusa.com/?gclid=CIGEqY7Gl6UCFQo65Qod2A2rJg
Dirt
ParticipantOf all the wicking layers I’ve known before….
The thing you’ll noticed that I’ve never suggested or mentioned is cotton. NEVER EVER EVER use cotton as a layer in the winter. I never use it in the summer either. Cotton absorbs sweat and doesn’t release it. It loses all ability to retain heat when it is wet. Cotton in any layer of any garment will make that part of your body freeze. Did I mention that cotton is bad? Okay. I’ll let that rest.
I mentioned the Verge base layer. I love that stuff. I use it for commuting in all 4 seasons and for long rides when temps are above 55. Its temp range is great. It is cheap. It is disposable. It is 100% synthetic and can be put out with the recycling.
For long, cold rides, my personal favorite is merino wool base layer. Hincapie sportswear makes fabulous wool base layer. It costs $45-55 per depending on your sleeve preference. For me it is worth every penny.
When it is DANG cold…. I’m talking “freeze all exposed skin” cold, I run for Craft’s sub zero stuff. It is stupidly expensive, but you don’t have to own a lot of it since those rides are not as frequent. They make tops and tights. It feels weird when walking around the house because it is designed to fit your body when you’re in a riding position.
I don’t do well with combination wicking/wind breaking layers. I have tried a few from Nalini and Craft and I perspire too much for any of them to wick effectively. I get wet then freeze. If I’m riding casually in very cold weather that works. I tend to ride as fast as possible when it is that cold to keep my core temp high.
Liner gloves are wonderful. I have some from Giordana, Pearl Izumi, Sugoi, Adidas and Nalini. They’re great these days because I wear an outer glove when it is 40 degrees out in the morning and just wear the liners when it is 60 degrees on the way home.
How ’bout y’all???
Hope some of this is helpful. Help me out with your input and what works for you? Thanks!
November 10, 2010 at 12:57 am in reply to: Seriously icy conditions on this morning’s commute… #923953Dirt
Participant@Mark Blacknell 1186 wrote:
This was just cruel.
It was completely factual…. just in a very localized way.
Love,
Pete
Dirt
ParticipantMy crayolas cannot be bounded by anything as mundane as a line.
Dirt
Participant@Mark Blacknell 1181 wrote:
Might have to try these out. Hmm, I wonder if I know anyone with a set . . .
~
Also, for everyone’s information, Ecuador lodged a formal complaint when Dirt competed in the jersey above. As part of the settlement agreement, Dirt was required to note in his original posting that the average Ecuadoran is about half his size.
I don’t have the MTB ones mounted up on a bike. You’re welcome to give them a try, sir. I’ll likely be ordering a couple extra sets (one drop and one MTB) for other bikes. You can certainly take a spare set for week or so to get the feel for them.
The Ecuadorian federation are my peeps! I may be twice their size, but I’ve got 1/2 their heart and 1/3 their intellectual capacity and absolutely none of their tact, grace or good taste. In all they determined that it all balances out. They were happy with my results on that race too.
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