Chronic numb hands while biking

[TwoWheelsDC]

@streetsmarts 149977 wrote:

So I’m trying to assimilate everyone’s advice – I’m having arm pain/numbness.
I’ve read threads that have been on here over the years .

I’m sure the pain and numbness is due to improper fit or changing from a mountain bike with knobby tires to my new commuter bike (which I like, other than this problem).
(It’s a “touring bike, a Kona Rova”). I used to ride an old mountain bike. I ride 7.5 miles, hopefully about 3 days a week or more, one way to work.

My new bike has
drop bars
no handlebar tape other than what it came with
a spacer to make it a little more upright
Schwalbe Road Plus w/Puncture Protect 700x35c (per the website)

I have gloves, with not much padding.

I’m taking a few days off because it’s scary to have pain, numbness and tingling in my hands. and I type all day!

So much advice is offered here on the thread.

What would you do *first*? (also – is it true that for every person I ask, I’ll get a different answer?!)

1. go to the bike shop where I bought it and ask them to add/change things to help me to a better fit? Expect to spend money on tape, spacers, etc.?
2. Ride with less air in the tires? I think the max is 70, and I’ve been using about 70.
3. spend $175-$200 for a bike fit? Not sure this is the answer before # 1.
4. See a doctor.
5. Do exercises? Stretch, strengthening.

What would you do?

I don’t get this as severely as you, but my hands are one of my weak spots, even on my professional-fit bike. I just move my hands around a lot and spend a lot of time riding on the bar tops rather than hoods.

I also type all day for work and wouldn’t be surprised if this was actually a contributing factor. I’ve just learned to live with it, but again, it sounds my case is much more tolerable than yours.

[TwoWheelsDC]

Just spitballing…strengthening your core could help relieve pressure on your hands. I’m skeptical that it’s a solution, but worth considering.

[AT_Hiker59]

To add to this on-going discussion, I finally have to put in my findings. The numb hands were caused by my neck out of wack. I went to chiropractor and she got me back in alignment. While I’m riding if I feel my hands going numb I sit more upright and turn my head to crack my neck back into alignment. I now ride with a straight bar and seated more upright. Plus less pressure on the palms in an upright position on my hybrid. The cause might be farther up the (nerve) line.

[streetsmarts]

why is it always “Strengthen the core”? kidding. But after years of running, dancing, hiking – free of any injuries, I turned a little over 50 and… bam. had back problems after dancing and hiking ! Strengthen your core they said. I worked on it, did some PT and core strength work. and it got better. But , I failed to keep up the work.

And started biking – hoping just biking itself would strengthen the core too! (not really)
ARRGH. I guess I’ll go do some sit ups, twists, blah blah…

Seriously.. thanks. Hope it will help.

[mstone]

@streetsmarts 149977 wrote:

Schwalbe Road Plus w/Puncture Protect 700x35c (per the website)
…
2. Ride with less air in the tires? I think the max is 70, and I’ve been using about 70.

Unless you’re really heavy that’s a crazy high pressure for a 35c front tire. I start at like 40 and adjust from there. 70 is the pressure after which they won’t guarantee that it won’t blow off the rim, not the pressure at which it should be used.

You might also try working up to longer rides on the new bike (good practice in general). But if you’re putting too much weight on your hands the only real fix is to change your weight distribution. That might be a matter of moving the seat back a tiny bit, or it might be a major reconfiguration. If you’re willing to tinker your can, or you can pay someone to figure it out. One way to get an idea of whether your weight is too far forward is to try to hold your position without touching the bars–if you can’t, that’s your problem. (In theory you could also strengthen your core enough to hold yourself easily in any position, but that’s not what most people are looking for in a commuter bike.)

[streetsmarts]

@mstone 149984 wrote:

Unless you’re really heavy that’s a crazy high pressure for a 35c front tire. I start at like 40 and adjust from there. 70 is the pressure after which they won’t guarantee that it won’t blow off the rim, not the pressure at which it should be used.

You might also try working up to longer rides on the new bike (good practice in general). But if you’re putting too much weight on your hands the only real fix is to change your weight distribution. That might be a matter of moving the seat back a tiny bit, or it might be a major reconfiguration. If you’re willing to tinker your can, or you can pay someone to figure it out. One way to get an idea of whether your weight is too far forward is to try to hold your position without touching the bars–if you can’t, that’s your problem. (In theory you could also strengthen your core enough to hold yourself easily in any position, but that’s not what most people are looking for in a commuter bike.)

Newish cyclist that I am, I went to a roadside maint. Workshop at my LBS.

I asked the instructor what tire pressure I should use. I believe she said since I’m on the light end of the weight range (145) I should use the higher presure. Don’t have the bike here but I think that is 70.

Hopefully above you see the schwalbe list of (“results vary. Tailor to your situation”) recommended tire presures.

I agree it’s a big change from knobby wider tires and mtn bike to this bike and tires. Maybe I did too much too soon .

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[streetsmarts]

One way to get an idea of whether your weight is too far forward is to try to hold your position without touching the bars–if you can’t, that’s your problem. (In theory you could also strengthen your core enough to hold yourself easily in any position, but that’s not what most people are looking for in a commuter bike.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[streetsmarts]

@mstone 149984 wrote:

Unless you’re really heavy that’s a crazy high pressure for a 35c front tire. I start at like 40 and adjust from there. 70 is the pressure after which they won’t guarantee that it won’t blow off the rim, not the pressure at which it should be used.

You might also try working up to longer rides on the new bike (good practice in general). But if you’re putting too much weight on your hands the only real fix is to change your weight distribution. That might be a matter of moving the seat back a tiny bit, or it might be a major reconfiguration. If you’re willing to tinker your can, or you can pay someone to figure it out. One way to get an idea of whether your weight is too far forward is to try to hold your position without touching the bars–if you can’t, that’s your problem. (In theory you could also strengthen your core enough to hold yourself easily in any position, but that’s not what most people are looking for in a commuter bike.)

And when you say hold your position how would you do that? With someone holding the handlebars…and leaning forward? Or do mean while actually riding?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Anonymous]

@streetsmarts 149985 wrote:

Newish cyclist that I am, I went to a roadside maint. Workshop at my LBS.

I asked the instructor what tire pressure I should use. I believe she said since I’m on the light end of the weight range (145) I should use the higher presure. Don’t have the bike here but I think that is 70.

This is backwards. Lighter rider = lower pressure. If you look at the chart you posted, for a given tire, as body weight goes up, so does recommended pressure.

[DismalScientist]

Normally, I would say raise the stem, but the boneheads in the bike industry now say you need a new fork. Once again the bike industry screws up getting rid of perfectly fine solutions like toeclips, friction shifters, and quill stems.

I would imagine you can find a steerer extender to fix the current abomination of a bicycle headset.

[ursus]

@DismalScientist 149994 wrote:

Normally, I would say raise the stem, but the boneheads in the bike industry now say you need a new fork. Once again the bike industry screws up getting rid of perfectly fine solutions like toeclips, friction shifters, and quill stems.

I would imagine you can find a steerer extender to fix the current abomination of a bicycle headset.

I do not understand why indexing is considered an improvement over friction shifting.

[dkel]

@DismalScientist 149994 wrote:

Normally, I would say raise the stem, but the boneheads in the bike industry now say you need a new fork. Once again the bike industry screws up getting rid of perfectly fine solutions like toeclips, friction shifters, and quill stems.

And wooden wheels, cast iron frames, and spoon brakes! Also, pedal-powered drivetrains are for sissies: what’s good enough for Fred Flintstone should be good enough for the rest of us.

[streetsmarts]

Indexing? Friction shifting??! I appreciate the help but I’m a beginner. These terms are way over my head. And dismal I think you’re suggesting more spacers to bring up the handlbars- correct?

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[dkel]

Also, pneumatic tires are for wimps.

[DismalScientist]

@streetsmarts 149997 wrote:

Indexing? Friction shifting??! I appreciate the help but I’m a beginner. These terms are way over my head. And dismal I think you’re suggesting more spacers to bring up the handlbars- correct?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yes, but if you add more spacers you may find that the stem no longer grabs the steerer in the fork. If the cap on the steerer tube is right on top of the stem, you need a fork extender.

On the issue of shifters, the issue is not indexing, but rather complicated ratcheting when a simple lever will do. Indexed friction shifters are (barely) acceptable. :rolleyes:

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