Chronic numb hands while biking

[DismalScientist]

@streetsmarts 149997 wrote:

Indexing? Friction shifting??! I appreciate the help but I’m a beginner. These terms are way over my head. And dismal I think you’re suggesting more spacers to bring up the handlbars- correct?

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Yes, but if you add more spacers you may find that the stem no longer grabs the steerer in the fork. If the cap on the steerer tube is right on top of the stem, you need a fork extender.

On the issue of shifters, the issue is not indexing, but rather complicated ratcheting when a simple lever will do. Indexed friction shifters are (barely) acceptable. :rolleyes:

[vern]

What hasn’t been addressed is whether you have these symptoms doing anything else, maybe to a lesser extent, but do you have them? If so, it’s not just the bike, and then, yes, time to go to the doctor (hello, carpal tunnel syndrome). If not, then it’s the bike and you can try some of the other suggestions made in this thread.

[streetsmarts]

@vern 150006 wrote:

What hasn’t been addressed is whether you have these symptoms doing anything else, maybe to a lesser extent, but do you have them? If so, it’s not just the bike, and then, yes, time to go to the doctor (hello, carpal tunnel syndrome). If not, then it’s the bike and you can try some of the other suggestions made in this thread.

Good question.

The symptoms began only after I got a new bike. At first it was just numbness in the hand and fingers. Then due to (long story…) circumstances, first I took a break from biking for a couple weeks, and then I had to ride my old bike.

I’ve been back on the new bike for about a month now, and it’s gotten worse. For ex., I haven’t ridden since Friday, but have had the symptoms off and on since then.

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[hozn]

@streetsmarts 149987 wrote:

And when you say hold your position how would you do that? With someone holding the handlebars…and leaning forward? Or do mean while actually riding?

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Yeah, while riding. You should be able to (with considerations for safety) remove your hands from the bars and keep holding your riding position.

In practice, I don’t find that comfortable at all to do for more than a fraction of a minute, but it is a good way to tell how much weight you are putting on your hands.

Raising your bars (e.g. get a steeper stem, flip the stem if it is not flipped up right now) helps. Core strength certainly helps one maintain a more aggressive (weight more forward) position more comfortably. You can move your saddle back, but there is an optimum position for the saddle relative to the pedals so that probably isn’t the best option if you can fix the fit by moving the bars.

Lowering pressure is a good idea, but would be surprised if that is the problem. For 35c tires, I run 40-50psi on pavement (less off road) and I weigh ~180lbs, so I would drop those down. Maybe to 45psi to start and see how they feel. If they feel squirmy, raise the pressure; if you can’t tell a difference, try lowering it to 40, then 35, 30…. Front can probably be 5psi less than the rear.

[Steve O]

@DismalScientist 149994 wrote:

Once again the bike industry screws up getting rid of perfectly fine solutions like toeclips, friction shifters, and quill stems.

And these (no chain required!):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]12909[/ATTACH]
And these (no brain required!):
[ATTACH=CONFIG]12910[/ATTACH]

[KLizotte]

I’ve suffered from numbness in my hands for years; esp my dominant hand. Mostly due to using a mouse and keyboard so much at work. Biking exacerbates the problem (I ride drop bars). I went to Clovis at Fresh Bikes (Ballston) for a professional fitting and that helped a lot. He swapped out the handlebar for a narrower one; gave me a riser stem, put shims in the brake levers to reduce the reach, and adjusted the saddle. My saddle is now almost level with the handlebar; not aero but a helluva lot more comfortable. I’m only 5’2″ so Clovis had to “shrink” the bike to fit me; I was overextended originally.

Unfortunately the professional fitting did not entirely solve the problem so I’ve done some tinkering on my own.

I changed out the stock tape for gel/cork combination tape. Made quite a bit of improvement. Vibration is a bad, bad thing.

I always wear biking gloves (the kind with little gel pads on the palm).

When I feel my hand(s) starting to go numb, I make a conscious effort to loosen up my shoulders, neck and upper arms. I have a tendency to “scrunch up” my shoulders and stiffen my elbows. Remembering to “hang loose” has a made a really big difference in reducing numbness; my biggest problem is being not being diligent about technique.

It sounds like you might be pinching a nerve due to poor fit/alignment. Don’t think the pain is gonna go away with more riding, it won’t. I would highly advocate getting a pro fit from a reputable fitter. He or she can tell you whether the bike you are on is the right size and may be able to make adjustments that will help. Unfortunately the first time I went to Clovis he told me the bike I was on was too big for me and I had just bought it (short people problems). I sold it and bought a smaller size and that fit so much better! Your solution may not be that extreme but I doubt you will be able to fix this problem without a professional eye. You can try the LBS you bought the bike first to see if they have a professional fitter; they may offer you a free session.

Good luck!

[huskerdont]

I agree that a doctor may be in order, but if you have the problem with the new bike and not the old one, I’d ride the old one for a while. Then you can work with your bike shop to see if you can adjust your current bike to a riding position that doesn’t cause the problem. Maybe you just need/prefer flat bars.

[Crickey7]

Right, my first thought was flat bar with Ergon grips. They make ’em pretty fast now.

[streetsmarts]

You know, that rings a bell! re riding position. I do think on my mountain bike, ii could ride with no hands for a few seconds and be ok. Not so much on my new bike. In fact, I think I cannot hold my position at all – I thought it was an issue of balance, but maybe it is of fit, etc.

I appreciate everyone’s help here.

I also, in giving this more thought, think I’ve ridden to much too fast. I went from 0 miles a week to many miles a week, trying to keep up with the Joneses , i.e. all you more experienced /badass riders (on Strava, at coffee club, etc).

I think I will lower tire pressure, go back to the LBS and ask about fit and raising the stem (I still have to learn what all these parts are). Stem, spacer. I think they did raise the stem with one spacer when I bought the bike.

[streetsmarts]

@hozn 150009 wrote:

Yeah, while riding. You should be able to (with considerations for safety) remove your hands from the bars and keep holding your riding position.

In practice, I don’t find that comfortable at all to do for more than a fraction of a minute, but it is a good way to tell how much weight you are putting on your hands.

Raising your bars (e.g. get a steeper stem, flip the stem if it is not flipped up right now) helps. Core strength certainly helps one maintain a more aggressive (weight more forward) position more comfortably. You can move your saddle back, but there is an optimum position for the saddle relative to the pedals so that probably isn’t the best option if you can fix the fit by moving the bars.

Lowering pressure is a good idea, but would be surprised if that is the problem. For 35c tires, I run 40-50psi on pavement (less off road) and I weigh ~180lbs, so I would drop those down. Maybe to 45psi to start and see how they feel. If they feel squirmy, raise the pressure; if you can’t tell a difference, try lowering it to 40, then 35, 30…. Front can probably be 5psi less than the rear.

You know, that rings a bell! re riding position. I do think on my mountain bike, ii could ride with no hands for a few seconds and be ok. Not so much on my new bike. In fact, I think I cannot hold my position at all – I thought it was an issue of balance, but maybe it is of fit, etc.

I appreciate everyone’s help here.

I also, in giving this more thought, think I’ve ridden to much too fast. I went from 0 miles a week to many miles a week, trying to keep up with the Joneses , i.e. all you more experienced /badass riders (on Strava, at coffee club, etc).

I think I will lower tire pressure, go back to the LBS and ask about fit and raising the stem (I still have to learn what all these parts are). Stem, spacer. I think they did raise the stem with one spacer when I bought the bike.

[streetsmarts]

Thanks. I might ride the old one for a while, and get it better fixed up for daily riding (Narrower tires, etc.). But I’d also like to fix the new one.

So much $ I don’t want to spend on *more* bike gear, but on other fun stuff. I thought if I followed the N+1 theory, all my problems would be solved and I’d have to spend no more money! Ha!!

[Author]

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