Chain and Cogs: Don’t wait too long!

[Dirt]

@dbb 55549 wrote:

What do the assembled experts say for the preferred chain? I am running Shimano derailleurs and cassette.

I use SRAM chains on everything geared but my 2 super high-end bikes. Campy Cervelo gets a campy chain. SRAM Red equipped gravel rig gets a Shimano Dura-ace chain.

My single speeds and fixie bikes tend to get Connex White Star chains. They are virtually bomb proof. Cheap too.

[hozn]

Another +1 for the KMC 10.93 chain. That is what I use on my commuter. I replace them when the chain wear indicator is between 0.5 and 0.75. That tends to be ~2k miles on that bike. I could probably get closer to 3k, but I have had bad experiences waiting until 0.75.

I like chains that have quick links. I used to use Sram exclusively, but have switched to KMC on my road bikes for the value proposition (cost/weight) and they seem to last as long and shift just as well.

[KLizotte]

Yesterday I visited Spokes in Belle Haven to get a new chain and some other stuff done. The bike is one year old (Cannondale Synapse with Shimano 105) and has a little over 3K miles on it; it’s a 10 speed. I clean/lube the chain approx every 400 miles and for the most part do not ride it in the rain or mucky weather; it is kept indoors. My Park Tool chain indicator fits easily into the links at the .5 mark but not .75. I haven’t had any problems shifting.

I asked for a new chain to be put on it but was told that I should wait till it reaches .75 and replace the chain and cassette at the same time (as well as have a full tune up).

So I’m a bit confused. I thought I was gonna save myself the expense of replacing the cassette in the short-term by replacing the chain now. Is it normal practice to replace the cassette with the chain on 10 speeds, say, every 4K miles?

Should I just buy a chain anyway and replace just that component?

Many thanks for your help.

[Rod Smith]

@KLizotte 56139 wrote:

Yesterday I visited Spokes in Belle Haven to get a new chain and some other stuff done. The bike is one year old (Cannondale Synapse with Shimano 105) and has a little over 3K miles on it; it’s a 10 speed. I clean/lube the chain approx every 400 miles and for the most part do not ride it in the rain or mucky weather; it is kept indoors. My Park Tool chain indicator fits easily into the links at the .5 mark but not .75. I haven’t had any problems shifting.

I asked for a new chain to be put on it but was told that I should wait till it reaches .75 and replace the chain and cassette at the same time (as well as have a full tune up).

So I’m a bit confused. I thought I was gonna save myself the expense of replacing the cassette in the short-term by replacing the chain now. Is it normal practice to replace the cassette with the chain on 10 speeds, say, every 4K miles?

Should I just buy a chain anyway and replace just that component?

Many thanks for your help.

I’d replace the chain and see how it goes.

After reading this thread, I decided to check my chain more often. So I checked the chain on the workhorse last week and noticed it was already .75 stretched. It wasn’t a very old chain, but I guess it had some miles on it. I was worried that I’d waited too late, but I installed a new chain and it has been working like a champ! My cassette is eight speed which I assume is more tolerant of this sort of neglect than a ten speed cassette, but you maybe OK with just a chain. It’s worth a try. In the future I plan to replace the chain before it gets to .75.

It seems people who are fairly diligent about changing their chains regularly replace their cassettes every three chains or so. My theory is a cassette can last longer than that if the chain is replaced more frequently. I think I used the same cassette with five chains once, but usually I forget to check chain wear and end up needing cogs and sometimes chainrings.

[hozn]

Yeah, you should be fine with just changing the chain. You should be able to get 2 or 3 chains to the cassette, maybe more if it’s not ridden in bad conditions.

[dbb]

My last chain question (for now)

SRAM 1051, 1071, or 1091?

1051 is available from a couple of sources for about $33
1071 is in the low $50s
1091 is available from Nashbar for $40 (in a shop pack)

[KLizotte]

@dbb 56378 wrote:

My last chain question (for now)

SRAM 1051, 1071, or 1091?

1051 is available from a couple of sources for about $33
1071 is in the low $50s
1091 is available from Nashbar for $40 (in a shop pack)

Oh my god, I’ve got to choose a chain too?! This sport requires way too much thinkin’…..

[jnva]

@KLizotte 56382 wrote:

Oh my god, I’ve got to choose a chain too?! This sport requires way too much thinkin’…..

If tapatalk had the ELITE button, I would have ELITED this!

[Bilsko]

@dbb 56378 wrote:

My last chain question (for now)

SRAM 1051, 1071, or 1091?

1051 is available from a couple of sources for about $33
1071 is in the low $50s
1091 is available from Nashbar for $40 (in a shop pack)

I know that the SRAM 900 series chains have issues with the hollow pin version being not as reliable as the solid pin version…not sure if this is the case for the 1000 series, but it may be a question you want to ask.

[NicDiesel]

I clean my chain religiously (after every ride) but decided to change my chain on Friday since its got about 3,000 miles on it. I’m not sure if it was a few of minor adjustments the shop did after installing or if the new chain (Dura-Ace) is just much smoother, but my bike flies now. Well, flies as much as a steel bike lugging 350lbs can. Probably time for a new cassette though, but that can wait for another 1,000 miles.

[hozn]

@4st7lbs 56637 wrote:

I clean my chain religiously (after every ride) but decided to change my chain on Friday since its got about 3,000 miles on it. I’m not sure if it was a few of minor adjustments the shop did after installing or if the new chain (Dura-Ace) is just much smoother, but my bike flies now. Well, flies as much as a steel bike lugging 350lbs can. Probably time for a new cassette though, but that can wait for another 1,000 miles.

I wouldn’t change the cassette until it starts skipping under load. You’ll know when you need to change it. (And wouldn’t recommend changing the cassette mid-way through a chain, though it may not be that significant.) I too love the sound (or lack of sound) of a cleaned and adjusted drivetrain. … Now if only I could pinpoint the incessant “BB-area” click my bike has developed …

[jnva]

I’m thinking about getting a schlumpf drive. Has anyone here used one and what do you think?

[dcv]

[OneEighth]

@dcv 56892 wrote:

What? No Izumi V?

[KLizotte]

Just got back from testing out my new chain. Not sure if the write-up is a gimmick or not but it sure is silent and shifts like a dream. I’d like a new chain every six months now….

Shimano 6701 10-Speed Chain

“When seconds count, you need every bit of your gear to be working as hard as you are. The Shimano 6701 10-speed chain has directional shifting plates to improve shifting, deliver better on-the-road performance and give you overall smoother performance that what you’re used to. Its lightweight construction lowers the gram count, while it’s redesigned plates and enhanced press-in construction gives it a longer service life.

•Asymmetric design with redesigned inner/outer plates virtually eliminate chain suck and improve contact with the cassette sprockets for smoother, noiseless shifting under heavy loads- for double chainrings only
•Reshaped outer plate is perforated to reduce weight and chain suck
•Reshaped inner plate lessens drivetrain friction for smoother rear shifting
•Enhanced press-in construction offers stable shifting action
•110 links (includes started rivet pin)
•This chain is OE packed and does not include instructions.”

[Author]

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