Chain and Cogs: Don’t wait too long!

Our Community Forums Bikes & Equipment Maintenance Chain and Cogs: Don’t wait too long!

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 102 total)
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  • #973112
    hozn
    Participant

    @jnva 55383 wrote:

    Yeah, I was going to try drilling out those stupid rivets. I don’t understand why it was built like this! I guess maybe it was cheaper to put together. I don’t see any reason why I should have to replace the cranks.

    It is [sadly] often cheaper to replace the whole thing anyway, though (as opposed to buying two new rings). E.g. http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-CX50-Cyclocross-Crankset (those are my commuter/cross cranks; love ’em)

    #973113
    mstone
    Participant

    @jnva 55383 wrote:

    Yeah, I was going to try drilling out those stupid rivets. I don’t understand why it was built like this! I guess maybe it was cheaper to put together. I don’t see any reason why I should have to replace the cranks.

    Most bikes in the US are ridden less in their lifetime than most forum regulars ride in a year. If it saves $1 in manufacturing to take a shortcut that would never impact most customers, the manufacturers will do it to meet a pricepoint without a second thought.

    #973114
    mstone
    Participant

    @eminva 55376 wrote:

    One question: I have heard it said that you should replace your cassette whenever you replace your chain. I have also heard that if you replace your chain before it gets too bad you can extend the life of your cassette and don’t need to replace it with every new chain. Is there any accepted wisdom on this point, or do reasonable minds disagree?

    You definitely don’t need to replace the cassette with every chain unless you run the chain too long. Given the relative cost of chains vs cassettes, smart money will change the chain before it gets to that point. In the old days, when you could run a chain for decades, this was less important; tolerances are tighter now, and it tends to matter more (at least on expensive multispeed cassettes).

    #973116
    rpiretti
    Participant

    Thanks Dirt. But, it’s my understanding that chain rings wear much slower than rear cogs, correct or not?

    #973117
    jnva
    Participant

    @hozn 55386 wrote:

    It is [sadly] often cheaper to replace the whole thing anyway, though (as opposed to buying two new rings). E.g. http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-CX50-Cyclocross-Crankset (those are my commuter/cross cranks; love ’em)

    I only need one ring. When I do replace it (probably soon) I’m going try using a bash guard “sandwich”. Right now I’m using a chain keeper that’s attached to the seat tube. It’s kind of ugly but it’s been working.

    #973119
    hozn
    Participant

    @jnva 55391 wrote:

    I only need one ring. When I do replace it (probably soon) I’m going try using a bash guard “sandwich”. Right now I’m using a chain keeper that’s attached to the seat tube. It’s kind of ugly but it’s been working.

    Gotcha. I used to do that on my 1×9 mtb. It would rub on the extremities (smallest two cogs and largest cog, IIRC), though, so I switched to the n-gear jump stop (http://www.amazon.com/N-Gear-Jump-Chain-Guide-Watcher/dp/B004YJ2ZSI) which sounds equivalent to what you already have.

    #973123
    jnva
    Participant

    @hozn 55393 wrote:

    Gotcha. I used to do that on my 1×9 mtb. It would rub on the extremities (smallest two cogs and largest cog, IIRC), though, so I switched to the n-gear jump stop (http://www.amazon.com/N-Gear-Jump-Chain-Guide-Watcher/dp/B004YJ2ZSI) which sounds equivalent to what you already have.

    I have the Paul chain keeper.
    [ATTACH]3123[/ATTACH]

    It works, but I’d rather make it simpler by using bash guards.

    #973133
    mstone
    Participant

    @Rando Guy 55390 wrote:

    Thanks Dirt. But, it’s my understanding that chain rings wear much slower than rear cogs, correct or not?

    They have X times as many teeth, which hit the chain 1/X as often. Also, the load is distributed across more teeth.

    #973141
    KLizotte
    Participant

    Thanks to this thread I measured my chain last night using a Park Tool CC and a measuring tape just to be sure. Guess what I gotta replace soon…..It will have 3K miles on it when I replace it.

    #973147
    lim
    Participant

    Wow thanks for the heads up Dirt, I had no idea

    #973153
    DaveK
    Participant

    @jnva 55397 wrote:

    I have the Paul chain keeper.
    [ATTACH]3123[/ATTACH]

    It works, but I’d rather make it simpler by using bash guards.

    I have the same on my 1×9 MTB and I’ve been able to jam it up a couple of times. Been meaning to go to bash guards myself.

    #973246
    Jason B
    Participant

    @eminva 55376 wrote:

    Thanks, Pete!

    One question: I have heard it said that you should replace your cassette whenever you replace your chain. I have also heard that if you replace your chain before it gets too bad you can extend the life of your cassette and don’t need to replace it with every new chain. Is there any accepted wisdom on this point, or do reasonable minds disagree?

    I agree with mstone.. My chain cost me $23 (kmc 10.9.3), my cassettes run me $70-100+, I am at a 3:1 ratio on replacements. You can always replace a bad cog on a cassette. People need to clean their chains more often than they think not just for efficiency, but for longevity.

    #973248
    ebubar
    Participant

    So how often are you all cleaning your chains? I tend to clean after any particularly rainy commute. So, after riding today, i’ll be cleaning things up.
    What say you experts?

    #973267
    dbb
    Participant

    What do the assembled experts say for the preferred chain? I am running Shimano derailleurs and cassette.

    #973277
    vvill
    Participant

    I’m definitely one of those lazy souls who doesn’t clean my chain often enough. I do have one of those chain checkers, they’re super easy to use but they always confirm my worst suspicions with my chain stretch.

    My plan for the next new drivetrain I get is to have a rotation of 3 chains or so that I rotate every 500 mi or so, that way they will hopefully all age slower, at around the same time as the cassette. That should also force me to clean them more regularly.

    I use KMC x10.93 chains mostly for their value point. Shimano compatible.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 102 total)
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