vvill
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vvill
ParticipantMy first ride on Jones H-Bars thanks to @Dirt – surprised at how much difference they make for my wrists! Almost makes me think I can go MTBing again… almost.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]14418[/ATTACH]Still need to play with the stem height and bar angle, they are perhaps a little too flat still, and the stem could go up a spacer or two.
vvill
ParticipantGet these and just stick with all Presta tubes
http://wheelsmfg.com/presta-stem-savers.htmlI vaguely recall having some similar issue years ago and using these… or at least buying them. I may have bought a new wheelset as well instead and forgot about these.
vvill
ParticipantI’d like to try the Paul Klampers but yeah I’ve only used BB7s myself as well. Actually, I have tried Tektro Lyras on a test ride – and then had them replaced with BB7s before I bought the rest of the bike. My other disc brakes are hydros (one SRAM, one Shimano, one TRP).
vvill
ParticipantYessss… moto-style rules! I have all my bikes like that. The main issue really is when someone borrows your bike and then they’re like… huh. I do have a lingering right wrist injury right now which makes it a little less ideal for the fixed gear but it’s mainly shifting that’s affected.
vvill
ParticipantYeah that looks sad
vvill
Participant@ChampionTier 157037 wrote:
Yeah, that’s what I was afraid of…trying to manage the risk of riding in (and my guilt over not riding more for BAFS lately) so I can roll in CCWNS #3. Hoping to hear “drains well, dry as popcorn”
! Looks like bringing the bike on the Blue Line may be the way to go. Thanks vvil!
Np! I don’t ride the MVT often but with any route even if 99% of it is clear, that 1% of unseen ice can really get you. I’ve crashed enough times on ice not to want to do it again!
vvill
Participant@ChampionTier 157035 wrote:
I plan on riding into work tomorrow but haven’t ridden along the MVT after a major precip/freeze event like last night’s. Any reports from tonight’s ride home? Any pointers for tomorrow morning?
Thanks!Low 20s overnight: Re-freeze will make it icy. Personally I wouldn’t attempt it without studs and MTB tires but YMMV (e.g. Steve O)
vvill
ParticipantI had a 1×7 (13-34 cassette) but it dropped when it was bumpy. Also had a 1×9 (9-26 Capreo), same thing.
vvill
ParticipantI wouldn’t say you need a clutch rear derailleur. I guess it depends a little on how much chain slack you’re running (and also if you’re on a small cog when you hit a bump). But I can only comment from my limited experiences. I’ve used both clutched (M786) and unclutched (M781) 10-speed XT with narrow wide chainrings now – one is an Absolute Black (currently on a 26″ beater bike) and the other is a road 110 bcd RaceFace. Neither has had a drop yet but it’s early days, and I am keeping an uncabled front derailleur on the bike with the unclutched XT RD so perhaps not a fair comparison. (I also upgraded from 7/8 speed to 10 speed at the same time.)
Generally when I’ve dropped a chain on 1x bikes (this is pre narrow-wide chainings), I’ve been in a taller gear and/or on a very bumpy surface.
tl;dr If I was mountain biking I’d definitely use a clutched RD but otherwise with a narrow wide I’d be okay trying a regular RD.
vvill
Participant@cvcalhoun 156737 wrote:
That’s always been my motto. When I was in school, not only was I chosen last for every team, but the guy chosen just before me was unable to walk very well due to polio. (True story!) One of the things I like about biking is that I don’t feel obligated to try for speed, just for getting there in the end.
I think I was the guy chosen before you, except I didn’t have polio.
vvill
Participant@SolarBikeCar 156739 wrote:
Not to put too fine a point on this, but this is why I ride an elf: to protect myself from reckless cyclists behaving badly to win pointless prizes.
So you drive an armored vehicle on the road? A tank perhaps? That way you could take up two lanes of regular traffic.
vvill
ParticipantBikes
&Bikes
&Bikes
&Bikes.vvill
Participant@SolarBikeCar 156630 wrote:
I’d would rather have a human powered only vehicle and would if my commute was less than 10 miles.
Since my commute is 15 miles I have e-assist.I don’t think the issue is using an e-assist to make 15 miles easier. It’s the “I must do it in 45min and average 20mph, on the trails” (and on a vehicle that takes up much more of the trail than a bicycle). Some options for dealing with a bike commute that’s too much are) cut down the number of days or, b) go multi-modal or c) yes, potentially have an e-assist for some days so you can rest more. But not so you can average 20mph and endanger others.
Do you drive a car through a neighborhood signposted 25mph at 45mph to save time – because it takes too long to drive at a reasonable speed otherwise? Of course, you’d rather drive at 25mph but since it’s too far, y’know…
vvill
Participant@ursus 156601 wrote:
Is the Eddington number supposed to be for a given year or lifetime? A couple of weeks ago I calculated this back to 1999 which is the first year that I input all of my rides into a spread sheet.
You can calculate both. Most folks would look at lifetime though, I imagine.
vvill
Participant432m, 777ft.
Only need < 1 yr of 1000+ ft rides to reach immortality. Not too bad!
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