[thecyclingeconomist]

[thecyclingeconomist]

Which tension meter are you using? If you are using the Park-tools, then they should have provided a chart. Every spoke/lacing pattern has different tensions. Also, for a clydesdale build you want to run the tensions at the top-end as I’d mentioned a bit ago.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@bobco85 35534 wrote:

(the comments section says only backers can comment)

You can ask questions at the bottom of the page (there is a big blue button), or shoot questions via facebook…

[thecyclingeconomist]

And if you over wear the chain and cassette…then just keep riding till they start skipping when you really put power into your pedal stroke…no point in spending the 75 to 125 bucks now…

[thecyclingeconomist]

@bluerider 35302 wrote:

I prefer more hands on type of training rather than watching others. I would be interested in learning more bike stuff over the winter if any opportunities are available.

Thanks in advance

I am going to be doing a full tear down/re-build of my commuter this weekend if you’d want to watch the process (It’ll take about an hour and a half in total). I’ll also be truing my wheels etc. I’m in Alexandria. Shoot me a PM if you’d like.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@vvill 34949 wrote:

I don’t usually carry a bag on my commutes so I’m loathe to shed layers.

Ah, well, that makes it even worse. The reality for me on these fall days: two completely separate kits. One for the ride in, and one for the ride out.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@Dirt 34934 wrote:

What I’ve found is that there are jackets that have wind protection up front, but are vented well in the back.

I agree with Dirt here. There are a bunch of products out there that are wind-stopper on the front, but either mesh or highly-vented in the back. Some also have removable arms. I also agree that you have to “throw a lot of money” at the winter-clothing problem.

Getting clothing right in the temps between 30 and 50 is really a tough task. Once it gets really cold (20s and below), it’s not an issue: you just bundle up and go around looking like a bank-robber:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1965[/ATTACH]

But, when it’s 40 degrees you fight that initial blast of cold, but you don’t want to have sweat accumulate, or the second you stop you will then freeze. Get a Merino wool (or other high-tech synthetic fiber) baselayer (about $75-100), and then a high quality jacket is the key (A high-end GORE, Castelli, or even Pearl Izumi). You won’t do this cheaply! (And if you try, you’ll end up buying 3 or 4 “cheap ones” only to find that you aren’t getting what you want as they simply won’t let the sweat out (most are just nylon shells)… thus realizing you should have just invested in the first place in the legit gear…take it from someone who truly tried to do this under a more frugal budget, and then ended up with a $200 jacket. So, instead of just spending $200, I spent $175 on cheapos, plus the $200 on the right product) If you wear arm-warmers that have a wind-stop coating on them, then you might consider a jacket with removable (zippers) arms too.

I find that most of my ride comfort when it is in the 30s and 40s comes from keeping my toes and fingers warm. Wool socks with a good pair of shoe covers, and a legit pair of gloves (with vents). Upper torso: when I walk outside, it should feel cold. After 5 minutes of pedaling and getting the heart rate up, I find that I almost always feel that I need to remove layers, not add. Having a jacket with two-way zippers and pit-zips is key here.

Also, get a good skull-cap, and if it drops below freezing, I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend the Talus Cold-Avenger face mask. It completely changed my winter cycling. Rather than stupid balaclavas that make you claustrophobic because you can’t get a good deep breath, this thing is stellar.

[thecyclingeconomist]

We already had a posting on this product… annoying.

[thecyclingeconomist]

Clear ride in today from Alexandria. Only two spots were impeded at all. Transitioning from 4-mile run to MVT, and then a tree blocking a half-lane north of gravelly point park. The underpass on 4-mile-run just before the MVT was completely clear of water (though at the hard left up to the MVT, that is where you either want to be on a cross-bike, mtn bike, or you’ll probably want to dismount); and no other signs of flooding.

[thecyclingeconomist]

It’s a little sketchy at the intersection of 4-mile-run, but other than that, I was pleasantly surprised at how clean the path was. A couple down trees, but only one impacts the path, and there is still a clear lane. (That tree down is just north of Gravelly Park)

[thecyclingeconomist]

@Bilsko 34573 wrote:

Alas, some brake squeal is just unavoidable. You get used to it.

? I’d question this… I’ve ridden 20K miles on my road bikes without ever having a squeal… investing in good pads, and then insuring proper adjustment is everything… making sure the height, angle, yaw, and toe-in are right and setting it properly from the get go will solve the problem on nearly every bike out there. (Center-pull brakes too… though they just suck, both to adjust and in the power they provide).

[thecyclingeconomist]

@DaveK 34577 wrote:

Bring it to the shop and tell them the brakes are driving you crazy – tell them to toe in the brake pads so a smaller area contacts first.

Make sure to toe-in the trailing end of the pad…Link to read: http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/brake-squeal.html

[thecyclingeconomist]

@OneEighth 34602 wrote:

I’m really gonna be disappointed if I don’t get to try out the studded tires this winter.

seriously! I dropped some good coin on my beastly winter tires! I want snow, ice and friggid temps… I should move to Anchorage…

[thecyclingeconomist]

@Certifried 34581 wrote:

I didn’t slow down on a path last night as I transitioned from the path to a small bridge. I popped my front wheel up a bit, and the back wheel slammed pretty hard in to the concrete lip. Fortunately, I didn’t break any spokes, but I sure smashed my rim out of true. My petite frame and gear load is kind of hard on my bikes, so I see that I really need to learn how to true my own wheels. Where do I start? I am mechanically inclined.

Sent you a PM…

[thecyclingeconomist]

From what I understand and have owned: stock folders from mass makers like Dahon usually have just one size, and you simply identify your appropriate seat-post and steer-tube heights and set them their when assembling. Here’s the quote from Dahon’s guide: “As a general rule, our 16” models are ideal for riders 4’6” – 6’2” tall, 20” models for riders from 4’10” – 6’4”, and 26” models for riders from 5’4” – 6’2”.”

Bikes from custom makers like BikeFriday will take into consideration your specific preferences, and your size into consideration, but still, most of it comes from your own adjustment. BikeFriday also has stock fits, but they are measured to have the same effective geometry as road bikes, so you simply order the size you would normally.

I have a 1960s full-steel Bianchi folder, and it doesn’t fit me no matter how far I set the seatpost and stem out… but it sure is fun to ride around on my clown bike…
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1917[/ATTACH]

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