[thecyclingeconomist]

@mstone 42747 wrote:

I’ll have to try the mountain morph. My previous experience has been that you either get something that takes a zillion pumps to fill a high volume tire or something that physically can’t get the pressure up. If they’ve solved that, I want one.

Bump for the morphs. I own both types, and actually have two road morphs. I’ve pumped up my 29er tires that are 2.35’s, and though it took a while, it still did the trick.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@KelOnWheels 42656 wrote:

Dear Rule 5 & 9 induced leg cramps: FUUUUUUUUUU.

That is all.

I shall now go back to sleep.

Ha! Drink your coconut juice!

I’m not sure that you can tell Rule 5 “FU”… isn’t that redundant?

[thecyclingeconomist]

@jabberwocky 42619 wrote:

…Cartridge bearings are generally pretty easy to open up and clean, as much as manufacturers would like to insist otherwise…

I’d generally agree with you, but some have very finicky seals, and if you try to re-install the seals incorrectly and put things together without them seated correctly, it’ll cause more harm than help.

Headsets just aren’t that expensive, and replacing bearings and or the whole cartridge is generally pretty darn cheap. If things are rough enough to dramatically inhibit operation of the bike in a cartridge bearing, often things have gotten pretty badly worn.

Again, most people on here don’t have the tools or experience to deal with things that would be done on a daily basis in a shop setting. That was the tone set in this thread, and that’s how I generally approach the advice I give, but I certainly concede that most cartridge bearings can be serviced.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@Dirt 42528 wrote:

Pro-link and Tri-flow are different…. Pro-link will probably work fine. I haven’t compared the two.

Pro-link is a much lighter lubricant, but also repels “Dirt” much better. HA HA!

At brake pivot’s, 3-n-one, pro-link, tri-flow, white lightening etc etc… will all work the same at first. It really depends upon how much you ride this steed and in what conditions: wet dirty vs. dry & clean. The heavier the lube, the longer it’ll last, but the more dirt it’ll pick up.

Just my 2-cents.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@KelOnWheels 42550 wrote:

One of the wrenches at Bicycle Space mentioned that she thought I needed a headset overhaul – my bike does rather go “clunk” in the front end. I don’t think it’s ever been cleaned or greased or anything.

This looks like something I do Not Want To Try At Home, amirite? http://sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html#overhaul

The first time you do it, I can see that having someone guide you wouldn’t be a bad idea. It’s not rocket science, so after you see it once, you’ll be able to do it at-home no problem.

The key is properly cleaning, re-installing enough grease, and then tightening the top-cap and stem properly. Again, if you have cartridge style, then there’s no such thing as servicing; if it’s rough, then it’s time to replace the bearings (or headset).

[thecyclingeconomist]

@Tim Kelley 42602 wrote:

So if I only ride completely straight in the aerobars, I’m less likely to wear them out?

Well, you won’t groove the headset race, but you are just as likely to have an issue with pitting from over-tightening. In fact, if the handlebar doesn’t rotate smoothly, that’s the key to diagnosing an issue with the headset.

To make sure it’s tight enough, stand over the bike, apply the front-brake and move the bike fore & aft while keeping a hand on the stem. You’ll feel if there is any wiggle or “play” in it, if you can hear it, then it’s WAY loose.

Also, most wear come from the fact that grease wasn’t replaced, and water gets into the system. Re-packing the bearings with a good water-proof grease such as Phil-woods is key. Here in D.C., if you are a regular commuter and your not running a sealed system, it’s likely that you’ll need to service the headset bearing (clean and repack in fresh grease) pretty regularly.

Just my 2-cents on that.

[thecyclingeconomist]

Roller bearings are used too: they wont “groove”, but they can pit when over-tightened.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2363[/ATTACH]

Here’s a pitted roller-bearing race (there shouldn’t be ANY marks on the race)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2364[/ATTACH]

[thecyclingeconomist]

@Tim Kelley 42591 wrote:

So, how often do you need service a headset? I haven’t done it on any of mine ever, and I haven’t noticed any issues in the 20,000 or so miles over the past 5 years.

If your headset has sealed cartridge bearings (most nicer ones do), then you’ll likely never have to service. Rather, if it really does fail (becomes rough, or sticky to turn your handlebar), you’ll just replace it.

You’ll want to service your headset every couple years (clean and re-grease the bearings to seal out water) So, if they aren’t sealed, then hopefully they are new enough that they have bearing retainers, rather than loose bearing balls (which were totally common in older headsets, even VERY high-end ones). You’ll check the bearing race within the cups to make sure that there isn’t any pitting in the surface and that it isn’t grooved. These symptoms will make it so that the fork doesn’t spin smoothly in the frame.

So, you’ll want to replace the headset if there is a deep groove, or if there are pits from over-tightening.
Here’s what a destroyed headset looks like: There is a “groove” that goes around where the bearing roll, and there are “pits” from over-tightening (basically dents in the race’s surface which will make it rough, and potentially dangerous if you try to ride no-handed since often the fork will be stuck in that position.)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2362[/ATTACH]
You want to tighten the cap on the headset just enough so that there isn’t any wiggle or play, but NO MORE.

Here’s the differences between the major types of headsets:
Cartridge (if they are binding, or simply not smooth, then you need to replace them, or the headset: in which case you’ll need to remove the cups and crown-race, and you’ll need a headset press to put new cups into the frame. If you don’t have the tool, or haven’t been shown how to do this, I wouldn’t recommend it.)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2358[/ATTACH] (The piece with the red bearing race is the actual cartridge)

Example of how NOT to install a headset:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2359[/ATTACH] PLEASE DON’T DO THIS!

Here’s a mid-level setup with open serviceable bearings that sit in a retainer (the piece that keeps the individual bearings from flying everywhere). These can be taken apart, cleaned and re-greased (you’ll want to COMPLETELY pack the area with a good bearing grease, such as Phil Woods).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2357[/ATTACH]

Here’s a loose-bearing setup. These you have to be VERY gingerly with when you open them, or you’ll likely lose the bearings all over the floor (in which case, you’ll spend the next hour trying to find them all, give up, go to your local shop to find out that they don’t carry them, and end up replacing the headset with a newer model in disgust).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2361[/ATTACH]
You’ll just re-grease them and literally set them back in, one-by-one till there is no space left. If there is enough space for another ball-bearing to fit, then you’ve lost one and should go pick up a new pack at your LBS.

[thecyclingeconomist]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2356[/ATTACH]

[thecyclingeconomist]

If he’s got a 10-speed rear end, it is HIGHLY unlikely that he’s got either downtube shifters, or time-trial shifters that have the option to run in either indexed or friction mode.

[thecyclingeconomist]

“…still be getting way out of adjustment every 5-10 miles or so“

Something’s off. Even normal cable stretch leads to very gradual miss-shifting over the first 200+ miles. However, what might have occurred is that the housing ferrules weren’t seated correctly, so you can get a LOT of change in the effective length of the cable from those getting set into place. But over 175 miles, even that should’ve worked itself out quite rapidly.

I’d take it in. Something is slipping. (You didn’t provide details on the drivetrain: what kind of shifters? etc?)

[thecyclingeconomist]

Anyone else notice that their bike breaks down a lot more during these colder commutes…?? Argh! In one ride I had a rotor start rubbing for no apparent reason (thought I was either suddenly MASSIVELY out of shape or facing a headwind that I couldn’t hear… no I was facing a rubbing brake which was sapping 50 watts of effort with no forward benefit)… then, I snapped a break cable AND finally, my chain broke… I gave up at that point since I had gotten within a mile of home and called for a ride.

After standing in the 22 degree weather for 45 minutes, I was shaking pretty good…

I’ve determined two things:
1. I will be replacing chain and all cables/housing this weekend
2. I will be buying a pair of goretex cycling boots along with a pair of Pearl Izumi Amfib bib-tights. All the layers I had on DRASTICALLY reduced my mobility, making it even harder to pedal than the stupid rubbing disc brakes were making it.

[thecyclingeconomist]

@thecyclingeconomist 40732 wrote:

Wahoo! Putting on the studded tires tonight!

Stupid weather… it was FAR too nice out this AM. I put on the studded tires in preparation for rain/snow/ice/slush… instead, what I got was a slow and noisy ride.

Bah!

I hope it gets MUCH nastier for the ride home tonight in the dark…

[thecyclingeconomist]

@CaseyKane50 40664 wrote:

Yesterday, I saw a link on Biking in LA to a video on the history of bicycling in Los Angeles that was part of Huell Howser’s “California Gold” television series. Though the show is focused on California, the discussion on the development of bicycles, women biking and the elevated bike tollway that was planned to run from Pasadena to downtown Los Angeles is quite interesting.

RIP Huell! You’ll be missed.

[thecyclingeconomist]

Wahoo! Putting on the studded tires tonight!

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