SteveTheTech
Forum Replies Created
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As always folks your incite is greatly appreciated and exactly what I was hoping for, thank you kindly.
I thought about this posting after I published it and realized I did not mention my intentions and price point.
My primary point of focus is acceleration and handling, I don’t mind if the ride is modestly harsh but I still want something I can do the Garret County Diabolical Double next year and an increasing number of similar events. While not technically racing (serious point of contention at home, and a topic for another day) I would like to be equipped for the time when the A group ride turns into a last man standing event, while having room to grow as my needs and skill level change.I keep working on my engine but I feel the frame is no longer doing its’ part. My 58 aluminum did well at almost everything, I subbed in an extra frame I had and everything went to hell. The handling and control I have over a 56 fit like a glove but I cannot climb with it. I never thought frame torsion would be so evident but when trying to catch some buddies going up a hill you usually hang with them on it is maddening. I was ready to take my tires and saddle and leave the rest of that in someones recycling bin, while it was a decent frame when just starting out, it will not work for the future.While I consider myself technically inclined and wanted to build something myself bundling in this case really does seem to be the way to go.I have a few torque wrenches forfixing cars but my bike tool box will be getting a dedicated inch pounds guage. My budget hovering somewhere in the general vecinity of $2k (ideally) leaves me almost completely out of anything wearing a Dura-Ace or Campy badge on this setup. While I would love to have a mid to upper end groupset this kit will be more likely than not a Apex or Rival and to a lesser degree maybe a 105. Unless I find something perfect on Ebay.
I am not planning on flying with my bike yet…
maybe in the future. At this point I have ruled out the Ridley Noah and its’ oh so pretty mast setup. I do travel several times a year for cycling related events and would love something I could clip some aero bars to and do a half iron someday.Too address some of Petes’ questions.
I’m looking at a race geometry over a more comfortable setup. I am modelstly flexible. I would say I am about a chameleon on work days and more so on the snake side on a weekend (http://www.fizik.it/spineconcept/#). My bars are about 2.5″ below my saddle on a 58 and about 3″ on the 56. I strive to keep some flex in my elbows and have little problem staying in the drops. One primary concern I had with the 58 was my fingers would lock up while braking down hill, and there is a noticeable lack of stability decending in the drops. On a flat road the larger frame is less of an issues andaffords the extra space to stretch out slightly on longer rides over flatter surfaces. A couple or stem changes helped but the reach is wrong.
I plan to do everything with this bike except lock it up at the store. I fail at biking to be green.
I’m very intrigued by the November Bicycles, I buy most of my food local…more investigation will be required.
Getting fit to my current road bike isn’t really high on my priority list, I have it dialed in to a point where I can comfortably ride it all day and do it again the next day without raising any real discomfort. The next one will get a 2D fitting most likely.
I am planning to go kick some tires and stalk some deals over the next month or few, this isn’t something I need today so I plan on doing an obsessive amount of research (as with most of my hobbies). I managed to find a British site that has nasty reviews of everything and that managed to enlighten me to the downsides of the Tarmac…so now I am back to the Canondale this time eyeing the SuperSix, I’m on the fence equippment wise, I’d like the Rival but the Apex is more budget friendly. I feel like for what you get the Rival or 105 offer more than the Apex though, a standard crank and better wheel options to start with, since it will be some time before items start “wearing out”.
@Tim Kelley 23513 wrote:
This one might make it on the schedule this year: http://www.alpineloopgranfondo.com/
I missed this the first time through.
You just made my September! (my birthday, my wifes birthday and my wedding anniversary are in that month, but still)
Clovis is awesome, I cannot believe how many people here have been through his operation.
Good service is really hard to find, and IMO worth spending a little extra on.@rcannon100 22492 wrote:
There is a lot of information online about bike size, bike fit, and adjustments. Its good to research and it is good to learn how to adjust your bike. Seats, for example, adjust up/down, forward/back, and tilt. I am almost constantly making adjustments to my bike.
I am dubious of LBS experts. I have gone in and received great information; I have gone in and received information that was just crap. I have had LBS repair shops do so real um stupid things to my bikes. I always prefer to go in having done my homework. A lot of the information someone in a store will tell you is geared towards (surprise) getting you to spend more money and isnt based on anything scientific. A lot of equipment looks “cool” and “fast” but other more boring stuff is actually better.
And it is always good to know how to make these adjustments when you are 30 miles out on the C&O canal, or even 3 miles into a 7 mile commute. If you are pounding miles, you will be swapping worn out equipment on your bike on a regular basis, and making repairs and adjustments regularly.
The information on all this is pretty easy to find online.
I watched all of the Cobb cycling videos and read the Park Tool shop manual before asking for any help from the pros (this is after buying our first road bikes). I would love to be able to trust the people at my LBS but we all have to be educated consumers. There are guys who have been doing this forever and are awesome (Ron @ Wheel Nuts) because they are passionate about it. Then there’s the guy who sold my wife her first road bike….fit her to a 56cm when Freshbikes put her on a 48….there was another that all but showed us the door if were not looking to drop $2k, which was a bit much when unsure if this hobby would stick.
@Certifried 23849 wrote:
Clovis felt the 2D fit would suffice, which simply left me more money to purchase parts
I spent what I had budgeted, the 2D fit just gave me an extra $100 for parts. I was impressed that I wasn’t pressured with an up-sell.I bought a new saddle, I think that’s probably inevitable unless you already bought one you know fits or got very lucky. I never knew that saddles had sizes! Clovis measured my ass and put me on a saddle that is amazingly comfortable, simply because my ischial tuberosity was in the right place on the saddle
That was roughly $120ishI also needed a shorter stem because my bike is too large
I’ve always bought 56cm bikes, and was surprised to learn I should really be on a 54cm. I also needed some spacers for my pedals to move them in to the correct position to align my knees.I’ve done a number or rides since, and can not stress how strongly I feel that people need to have properly fitting bikes. The total cost was about $360, including parts I needed either way to make it fit, worth every penny.
That is one thing many people don’t consider when budgeting for a fitting. The FB prices on mid level components is just about on par with online averages (including shipping)and they toss in labor.Things like Specialized BG saddles and stems are harder to find online and seem to be price fixed, most of the shoes are about the same too. The mrs. fitting was about a hundred more than yours but she needed pedals and shoes too, but the saddle and stem made a complete difference in her fit too.
Stems and saddles have so many variables having the ability to swap parts during a fitting (or finding a store with a good return policy)it makes dialing in the saddle width or stem angle much easier.
I find it odd that we are the exact same height, same inseam and everything and I’m riding a 58!.
I was test fit at the same shop as the mrs. but bought on my own online so it is on me….wonder what Clovis would say about that. Ha@Certifried 23850 wrote:
The aggravating thing to me was that I had complained about butt pain to my LBS where I purchased my bike. They looked it over and said it looked fine. The seat was not only at a horrible angle, putting excessive pressure on my pudendal nerve, but 5cm low (even after I’d already moved it up 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.)
That is really odd, the nose being tilted is something you would think would be easy for them to pick up on…I bet we went to the same store.
When you were “fit” originally did they put you in a trainer with a block under the front tire? If the rear wheel was raised and they were trying to level the saddle, I can see getting it wrong if the actual angle is off..still not acceptable.@Tim Kelley 23668 wrote:
With an FTP of 350w, I’d expect you can move a little faster than 18mph. Whats your weight?
I know it drives me nuts. I’m right around 180 right now and cannot loose anymore to save my rear, despite my best efforts to eat more. I’m currently running a compact cassette which I think combined with about 10 extra lbs on me is doing nothing for my AMS. I can manage a slightly more than 30mph sprint on a flat and >40 on an decent but my Garmin averages are almost always in the high teens. I can usually hang with the front of the A group on my weekly group ride on climbs and very rarely leave the 50 ring, still with a stock 12-24 rear.
@TwoWheelsDC 23677 wrote:
The used bike I bought is an older aluminum CAAD. I actually like it a lot…rides super smooth, pretty light, and climbs well, particularly compared to my steel CX commuter. My commuter is a 50/39/30 with a 12-30 cassette, but I can climb way better on the CAAD with a 52/42/30 and a 12-25. Most importantly, I feel like, at this point, it’s a bike that’s well suited to my skill level. Of course, that doesn’t mean that I’m not looking to upgrade though 😎
I like Canondale offers the same frame with different gear sets to everyone from a Tiagra through a full Red setup depending on your budget and needs.
So it looks like mechanically you are in good shape…might as well go back shopping for a new computer
@TwoWheelsDC 23463 wrote:
Son of a…see, this is why I shouldn’t hang around the forums. I’m perfectly satisfied with my Garmin 200, which doesn’t have a HRM, then a simple thread like this pops up and I think “hmmm, it would be interesting to know what my HR is…maybe I should upgrade to a 500.” Argh.
Now I just hope there are no upcoming threads about how carbon is soooooo much better than aluminum. That may push me over the edge.
You know if your adding to the wish list why not bump up to the touchscreen with mapping of the 800. I can’t read a cue sheet to save my life…that’s my justification for keeping one in my Amazon shopping cart for a while.
I have a multisport Garmin FR60 watch that does speed/cadence and running sensors and cannot live without it. It doesn’t export Strava compatible files so I’m stuck with just Garmin Connect, but I got it as a bundle for about $100 and it supports many more things than a stand alone bike computer..if your into that kind of thing.
I’m 28 my average HR is 168, peak of about 192 and my cycling cadence hovers around 80 on hills and about 90 on flats with an AMS of 18mph and I’ve got an FTP around 350. But I cannot compete :*(
@Tim Kelley 23466 wrote:
Just skip the HR and go straight to a power meter!
See now that’s a trap. For those who think HR training is addictive watts is so much worse. I don’t have that (yet…shhh don’t tell the mrs) but I’ve computrained before and watching peak output and training to improve ftp really takes riding (for training and fitness) to another level. I know I dream of adding a Quarq to my next frame. (http://www.quarq.com/store#sram_compact), because after all if your going to invest that much why not go to the crank it is the most accurate. You can get a Quarq Red setup for just a little less than you can get an entire Red groupo on some sites, and it is ANT+ compatible.
@TwoWheelsDC 23470 wrote:
Jeebus, those things cost more than my bike! In fact, a Garmin 500 would make an even trade for my road bike…score one for craigslist, I guess.
I’m glad to see I’m in good company.
Now the delima is…do you dump $$$ into a cheap frame or buy a better frame and wait longer… and at what point are you taking the hobby too far?
I really like the carbon/aluminum debate, they both have strong pros, and a few cons. Carbons light, but twitch (sometimes) but it can make a seriously aero (and pretty) frame.Aluminum can be more resilient and stable but can be harder to climb and heavier with and less efficient if using aerobars. The Canondale CAAD line is what I’m looking at for Aluminum, and the Tarmac from Specialized is my pick for Carbon. They have fair price points for a full bike and decent supply in this area. Although IMO Litespeed makes a downright sexy frame.
Personnally I think there isn’t a too far…my accountant wife on the other hand does not share my same…enthusiasm.
Be careful, someone told me that there are a rash of 500 + models on ebay that do not read in english. It sucks that used they are not really loosing any value (relative to what you would expect for something like a bike computer).
@consularrider 23498 wrote:
No suggestions, just a note of congratulations on the upcoming nuptials.
+1, have fun and congrats.
I have nothing HP related to add, I took a lot from this though, thanks.
I know the Oxon Hill bike club does AA training rides out there weekly. I’m always a little reluctant to join a new fast moving group of strangers.As far as century training within the Beltway go the options are kind of limited, although there are many ways to make due with what we have available.
My tri club has a group ride through the hills of the Bellhaven/Fort Hunt area (cannot currently supply link due to restrictive internet policy @ work) but it leaves from the Bellehaven Marina (on the MVT) at 5:45 on Tuesday, covers 20-25 miles in ~1:30 and have three pace groups with a fair amount of repeating hills. All are welcome to drop in. The ride leader and a few of the top riders there did the Garrett County Gran Fondo last weekend using that as their primary training and got it done. (the Fondo they did had 16k’ of climbing over 125mi).
Ive been riding with them about every other week and going to two or three spin classes (which I have slightly modified for cycling) and got my first century done in 5:40 in Southern MD. IMO an hour of zone 3.5/4 intervals on a spin bike have done more for my overall cardio and climbing ability than anything I can realistically do on a bike during the week outside.I’m thinking of doing the CWC this year, it looks like a great way to about round out the season. What could be better than history and cycling.
I was also looking at doing the Lakes and Grapes century out in Spotsy (http://www.neosyscorp.webspaceforme.net/lakesandgrapescentury.org/index.htm). I’m partial to wine themed rides though.
