[ronwalf]

@TwoWheelsDC 21106 wrote:

Most of the local segments I do are on my steel cross bike with a full pannier, so I’m embarrassed by my slow times! Maybe I’ll join once I’ve been able to get out more on my skinny-tired bike…

I’ve got a segment or two where I had Tim on the bike seat…. then we stopped for a snack. Go go 1.7mph average.

[ronwalf]

@jabberwocky 20609 wrote:

Outside my townhouse (actual elevation ~400 feet above sea level), it will calibrate to anything from -50 to 550 at the start of a ride.

You can save a number of known elevation points (~10 IIRC). I just have two locations set (home and work). The downside is that it only calibrates against the new location at the start of an activity (you have to start within 30 meters or so of a saved location).

[ronwalf]

My ride would be better if jammed my front fork back into alignment.
…
…
Oh, you meant that ride.

[ronwalf]

The most disheartening part of riding in the rain is seeing the cake of aluminum dust form on my brakes and wheel (wet weather really seems to grind down the rim quickly). Otherwise, I kinda liked it.

[ronwalf]

Morning commutes are always faster for me.
What was your route? I live in Greenbelt, so I’m always curious about the roads and trails people choose.

[ronwalf]

@jrenaut 19148 wrote:

Would towing a trailer full of children regularly make a difference?

Follow the torque! The torque you apply to the chain (and thus the teeth on the cassette) is from:

1. Your pressure on the pedal
2. Crank length
3. Size (teeth) of the chain ring

That’s it! So other than a tendency towards the smallest chain ring, you’re not likely to be putting outrageous pressure on the chain and cassette. You might be shaving a few miles off the rear tire and brakes, though.

[ronwalf]

You can measure the chain yourself with a measuring tape:
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#wear
Scroll down to the section on “Measuring Chain Wear”.

[ronwalf]

For the briefest of periods, I’m leading the team (yay for zoo trips!).

How does consularrider have 12 points? That should be impossible! (Maybe a ride that started before midnight?)

[ronwalf]

@elcee 18950 wrote:

I, too, had lost the skill, but I was able to relearn. Here’s how I did it:

Here’s how I learned (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)

1. Ride in summer near a gnat-infested creek.
2. Swat with left hand
3. Swat with right hand
4. Swat with left and right hands
5. Notice that you have no hands on the bars
6. Panic

[ronwalf]

@creadinger 17880 wrote:

They sell gatorskins, but not armadillos. When you throw in the convenience of a gift card, the difference between these reptile skins won’t make THAT much of a difference right?

Get what you want, but it’s hard to claim those armadillos will lay an egg on you!

[ronwalf]

@CCrew 17286 wrote:

One of those hack jobs from some unknown manufacturer

“Due to regulatory requirements, there are many markets, including the USA, where the Turbo is simply too fast to be legal.”

I’m wondering about Specialized’s market here? It’s not legal in the US, UK, and much of Europe. I guess they plan to make up for the limited market with its $8500 price tag!

[ronwalf]

@eminva 16954 wrote:

I also signed up. Does anyone know how the points are calculated?

From the prize page:

Challenge Points accumulate based upon miles ridden with an additional 20 bonus points for each day that you ride.
Scoring: 1 mile = 1 challenge point
20 bonus points for each day that you ride

The warmup period started Feb 1st, and points will reset at the start of the challenge. Prizes are by drawing, so all you need to do is ride enough miles to qualify:

As you accumulate Challenge Points, you will achieve prize levels. This will automatically enter you in the
prize drawing at that level.

Prize Level, Challenge Points to Achieve Level, Prize Drawing to be held
Bronze, 50, At end of each month
Silver, 150, At end of each month
Gold, 500, At end of each month
Platinum, 1500, At end of Challenge

So, if you want to optimize your chances for winning the prizes with almost no miles, all you need to do is to bike 25 days in May (25*20 = 500), then bike 50 days in the remaining three months. If, instead you bike 10 miles a day, you need 17 days of riding in May and 33 in the remaining three months.

[ronwalf]

@jrenaut 16931 wrote:

Can you enter stuff manually.

Yes, you enter your commute distance when you register which lets you quickly log your commute.

[ronwalf]

@americancyclo 16927 wrote:

I don’t suppose there is any way to import data automatically from Strava or Garmin?

It picks up on your Endomondo workouts, and you can import those from your Garmin. It’s a clunky website, though. Everything seems slow and it takes several clicks to finish any task (importing, editing, etc).

[ronwalf]

I run with both dynamo lights (IQ Cyo-R, would get the regular Cyo next time) and some AA battery lights. They’re always available, I don’t hesitate to use them on cloudy days, ***blahblalbah standard dynamo pitch***.

But… the best part of the lights has nothing to do with the power source. Since they are german lights, they have the same type of vertical cut off system that car lights do, putting most of the light on the trail and not in the eyes of on-coming traffic. I still keep a low power blinky on the handlebars just to identify myself as a bike, and a AA flashlight tied to my helmet so I can look around bends on the trail.

As for the brightness wars… you want enough light to see and be seen. At some point, if they’re not seeing you, it’s because they’re not looking, and no light is going to fix that unless it burns a hole through their heads. But the more light you’re throwing, the less you’re able to see outside your headlights, making you less safe, not more.

Oh, and here’s me biking around a well-lit parking lot with my lights:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ronwalf/4032883269/in/set-72157606834391959

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