[peterw_diy]

Maybe you should try. I don’t ride this very often, but once again there is exactly one sign, Spanish only. This is starting to look very deliberate (and still racially condescending).

[peterw_diy]

Why not try adjusting the limit screws and cable tension so your brifter can’t drop to the granny? If it works you can then decide whether to go full weight weenie and remove the small ring.

[peterw_diy]

Speaking of coasting downhill, here’s something Tim might post: how does your descending technique compare to this?

https://twitter.com/camilzf/status/828480836857188358

[peterw_diy]

@hozn 154346 wrote:

Hmm, I am pretty sure we filter private rides, but not sure if privacy zones are respected by the strava ride streams. (We are not attributing the lines on the map to riders, though.) I will confirm we are excluding private data.

Thanks! Bummer about privacy zones – ISTM Strava should make that easy to identify.

[peterw_diy]

@hozn 154320 wrote:

Assuming same system as last year, the FS app exposes some geojson API endpoints. (We save the map streams from the Strava activities, yes.)

It looks like BAFS is not filtering out private location data. I haven’t bothered looking at the JSON yet to see how the data is bundled but it makes me uneasy to see heat clusters that are both inside my defined home privacy zone and from rides flagged as private.

(I understand BAFS needs the data for scoring, I just don’t want it making “private” data available.)

[peterw_diy]

@BobCochran 154213 wrote:

Electrical tape (the high quality kind, anyhow) has to withstand fairly high temperatures

I am under the impression that high temperatures in your electrical wiring indicate you’re pushing too much current. Tape used for vent ductwork, sure, that stuff is designed to laugh at scalding heat. But electrical tape?

[peterw_diy]

Team 8: https://www.strava.com/clubs/250612

[peterw_diy]

@vvill 151623 wrote:

If I was going to replace a square tapered crankset + BB I’d just spring for a Hollowtech MTB crankset (you’ll want spacers for the 73mm MTB cranks in a 68mm BB) or the SRAM GXP equivalent

But he’s starting with a 7 speed setup. Most Hollowtech II are 9+ speed, which means the chainrings are closer together, which means he might need a narrower chain to avoid rub, and that’s how you call down the upgrade rabbit hole…

I haven’t run Hollowtech II long enough to have an informed opinion, but I’ve sure seen enough complaints about outboard bearings like HT II uses, and had great experience with standard Shimano square taper cartridge BBs. 0

[peterw_diy]

Why would you replace the cranks? What’s wrong with the old ones?

[peterw_diy]

@hozn 151341 wrote:

I couldn’t agree more. Any language that needs a library to check whether a value is an array (https://www.npmjs.com/package/is-array) really should probably not be used for anything.

The existence of a npm package/project is not evidence of its necessity. Don’t forget the left-pad debacle! http://www.theregister.co.uk/2016/03/23/npm_left_pad_chaos/

[peterw_diy]

@hozn 151334 wrote:

There is definitely a freezing saddles software issue. I have been ignoring emails all day. Apparently the (MySQL) database crashed and one of the tables needs to be repaired. It is unfortunate having to use such a horrible database

I know you despise MySQL but the Strava app and widget misbehaving today suggests to me that the problem likely stems from them.

[peterw_diy]

Great! Do you see a last name for me? It seems wrong that the team leaderboard calls me simply Peter instead of something like Peter DI to better distinguish me from Peter DeNitto.

[peterw_diy]

For touring (which I’ve done) or rando (which I haven’t) I think the most important thing is you need to gain skills to make basic adjustments – at least gears & brakes – yourself. Don’t go for maximum reliability hoping you will never need to wrench.

Adjustable housing stops that allow you to tweak gear cable tension mid ride are great for letting you address minor shifting trouble without stopping. Downtube mounted ones (that go on shifter bosses) are far easier to use than ones that are not fixed to the frame but go inline with the gear housing.

IMO the current generation Campy Ergopower levers are the most comfortable brake levers around, much nicer in the hand than Shimano brifters or most dedicated brake-only levers. I can’t speak to how well full Campy drivetrains work though as brifters are my only Campy parts.

I do like the idea of the better cable pull ratios for SRAM and Campy, and find that my SRAM equipped cargo bike has less trouble – even with much longer cables and lower end components – than my Shimano bikes.

[peterw_diy]

Thanks. I hadn’t really reauthorized – I confused a one time website login with the authorization. I think I’ve done it right now, using the “authorize our leaderboard” link. Crossing my fingers!

[peterw_diy]

@KLizotte 150893 wrote:

Competitor or the same folks?

Does it matter?

Also while rain is annoying, so is all this cold. I wish somebody would invent hand sweaters. Or head socks.

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