[GuyContinental]

@TwoWheelsDC 48492 wrote:

I don’t even ride off road and my feeling is that my cross bike would be sub-optimal for real MTB-type trails given the geometry and what not…but I freely admit that that feeling stems from me being a big chicken and mediocre bike handler. One thing to seriously consider though, is that cross bikes generally have road components, so you can’t get the same low gearing that you’d find on a real MTB.

Sure you can- both SRAM and Shimano groups have triple FDs and you just use a long cage RD to put on a 12-34 cassette. But most folks that need more range just go with the MTB RD and a smaller inner ring (32T)

[GuyContinental]

@Bilsko 48467 wrote:

Wikipedia and Google inform me that the buoyant mass for 4100 cu inches of Helium should be around 2.45lbs. I think that would negate the weight of my handlebars.

Seal and fill the frame tubing too! That should give you another 5-6oz of lift…

Add 4-5K Heilum balloons and you’ll be approaching road bike weight.

[GuyContinental]

@jabberwocky 48463 wrote:

People will think you’re trendy and cool.

Three weeks ago in Davis WV, I saw a fatbike with studded tires bust out of the singletrack in fully 18″ of snow and head downhill at 20+ mph (in a blizzard). That was pretty awesome. There is also a local guy who took his on a off-road, off-trail 45-day crazy adventure in Alaska and some crazy people who do sand racing out in AZ. Beyond that…

[GuyContinental]

How do your kids feel about you crushing their Thomas trains like a bike-messenger Godzilla? Muahaha!

[GuyContinental]

@Jason B 48432 wrote:

Too often when we stranded on the side, too many people BS-ly call out, “You Ok?” as they cruise by. It is refreshing to hear about somebody who actually meant it and helped out.

I have to take some exception to that too- I always mean it when I say it and if someone looks like they are just being proud, I’ll stop anyway.

In this case I actually saw you guys and offered to help but things looked well in hand (I didn’t see the blood)- it clicked later that it was Dickie (sorry, I didn’t know that you were of the hairless tribe- used to helmets)

[GuyContinental]

@jabberwocky 48416 wrote:

Probably true of some of the easier stuff, but I wouldn’t take a CX bike on any of the intermediate trail in the area, and wouldn’t even consider it on the more advanced stuff. Most of wakefield would be alright, for example (though the rocky stuff on phase 4 would suck on a cross bike). I wouldn’t ride Accotink on a cross bike though.

To me, its a question of enjoyment. Sure, you can ride a CX bike on singletrack. I’ve done it many times. Its not very fun though. The geometry is unpleasant on actual trail, the ride is harsh, drop bars suck off road, ground clearance is bad, cross tires lack traction on steep climbs/descents and cornering etc.

I’m kind of sick that way- I actually find the difficulty and discomfort part of the fun (I also telemark ski, unicycle, play underwater hockey and C-1 whitewater paddle so I’m definitely into masochism). BUT to the original point, she wasn’t looking to ride intermediate trails, she was looking for a do-it-all ride that could also do some of the beginner trails. A CX is much better than a MTB for 90% or more of those.

[GuyContinental]

@eminva 48385 wrote:

Would we be crazy to not even have one MTB in the house? Do people do that?

And, you can ride the CCT on a cross bike, right?

Thanks.

Liz

I’ll echo what Hozn said (I attempt to keep up with him on my CX in LFP often well before dawn) and add that there isn’t a single commonly-ridden MTB trail in the immediate DC area that can’t be ridden well on a CX. There might be times where a MTB would make it easier or more comfortable but you *can* get anywhere on a CX (not saying that you won’t sometimes walk). For generic use as well as the C&O or CCT the speed of a CX will make up for it’s handling and braking shortcomings.

I love MTB and would without thought classify myself as a MTB’er, yet in 2012 I rode ~4600 miles… all of 52 of it on a SS MTB (pretty much all racing), 38 on my FS MTB and 1700 on the CX (probably 1000 on CX tires).

Also, as others have said, keeping two sets of wheels/tires for the CX makes it super easy to swap out.

[GuyContinental]

@jrenaut 48401 wrote:

My daughter has a birthday party to go to in Crystal City at 1030am this Saturday. I was thinking of biking. I’d probably go across the 14th St Bridge then take the MVT to where we had the Freezing Saddles happy hour, then take the streets for a few blocks.

I’ll be pulling a two-person Burley trailer. Is this completely insane on a Saturday morning when people are coming for the cherry blossoms and it’s supposed to be warmish and sunny?

My wife and I will each be out with a trailer along with half of the be-trailered in DC and probably every CaBi- it will be crowded and slow. As long as you aren’t in a hurry it’ll be fine.

I’ll also have my stink-eye ready for any pathlete who gets tense over their “training” on such a day

[GuyContinental]

@rcannon100 48313 wrote:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2652[/ATTACH]

The guy in the brown jacket looks like he’d very much like you all to go away (and take your stinky gear with you…)

Java Shack is very cycle friendly- I know of at least three w/e group rides that start or end there and they are a jersey sponsor of the awesomely named Lantern Rouge “team”

[GuyContinental]

So, I went through my OCD cleaning cycle on Tuesday night and admit that a) it’s definitely been more than a month (probably 3) and it definitely took more than 10 minutes. My drive train is also tapped out at 3500 miles so I thought that I’d post some images of what that means.

On the chain- I use a Park CC-3 which measures stretch in terms of percent- it’s a “go/no-go” gauge in that it will only tell you when the chain is done not it’s progress. In the CC-3 it’s either 0.75% or 1.0%. I try to replace at 0.75 but clearly went beyond that point on this unit. Some folks swear by the Park CC-2 which measures a range of 0.25% to 1.0% (or the new CC-3.2 which is a go/no go at 0.50 and 0.75) and replace at 0.50- this is part of why you’ll hear a big range in chain life- I get as much as 5k miles because I measure to the greater stretch. If I replaced at 0.50 I would only get about 2K. BUT I wouldn’t have killed my cassette… which I did.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2651[/ATTACH]

On the cassette- the extra stretch in the chain changes the contact point of the rollers on the cassette teeth- over time this will wallow out and “hook” the gear- it’s a bit hard to see because I unhelpfully left the chain on a worn cog for the photo but look at the gear below the chain- some of the teeth are hooked almost to sharp points. You can also see how worn the outside body of the chain links have become.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2650[/ATTACH]

Why is this important?
1. Play in the chain kills your cassette
2. Hooked cassette teeth kill your chain (the chain stretches to hit the contact point)
3. A stretched chain will also kill your front rings which can be expensive to replace
4. Eventually the play is such that the shifting ramps will mis-align and the chain will skip, shift unintentionally and refuse to index. If you’ve gotten to this point it’s waaay too late- your cassette is likely fried. For context- this Ultegra drivetrain is dead but shifts perfectly and silently. I’ll replace it to save the shwanky FSA big ring up front

So-
A. Buy a CC-3.2 for $10 (LINK) or a CC-2 for a less palatable $24 (LINK) OR just use a tape measure with a baseline of 12″ pin to pin.
B. Measure monthly
C. Replace chain after 0.50 but before 0.75
D. Replace cassette every other (or third if you lube and clean a lot) chain
E. Save lots of money

[GuyContinental]

@Tim Kelley 48155 wrote:

So it was originally proposed as FCC2, and then changed to TCC because we didn’t want to steal people away from the already occurring FCC1, but now we are changing it back to FCC2 because we don’t care about stealing people from FCC1?

No need to over think this- there are lots of us who will rarely or never make a FCC downtown, making it a “thing” in Arlington, Herndon and other locations (Bethesda? Silver Spring?) might pull the occasional FCC downtown regular but will increase the overall participation.

[GuyContinental]

@hozn 48124 wrote:

Hey, happy birthday! yeah, my Rothera winter cap is by far my favorite piece of winter clothing. Fantastic in the rain too.

Honestly, I have you to thank- I said somehting along the lines of “But Hannnnsss hassss one and he rides when it’s really unpleasant outside… pleease???” Seeing an opportunity for a no-brainer and not terribly expensive gift, she pounced.

[GuyContinental]

Had to toss this one in here even though it’s definitely not seasonal- my wife gave me one of THESE Rothera Winter Caps for my birthday and I was delighted to get to use it today, perhaps for the only time until fall. It worked great keeping my ears and head warm without getting too warm on top

[GuyContinental]

@jopamora 48082 wrote:

His Holiness can park in the bike lane without repercussions, but you should probably take the photo anyways.

Nope he takes the bus LINK

Maybe THAT’S why the buses sit there!

[GuyContinental]

@oldbikechick 47978 wrote:

I have no idea how to do this. My pedals don’t look anything like the ones in the howto videos on Youtube. I’ve had my clipless pedals for almost 2 years, through rain, mud and grit and have never done anything to them. What happens if you don’t grease them?

Eventually the bearings will wear out and if you are super-duper lucky (and using Speedplays) they’ll seize. In mid stroke. I can attest, that’s less than fun. If you are using common MTB pedals (eg Time or SPD) you have to pull the spindle to grease them (honestly, I wouldn’t bother unless you ride a lot in the rain or are hearing squeaking).
LINK to SPD instructions

Eggbeaters have a plastic slotted cover and a grease attachment (the strange “extra” part in the box that looks like a threaded plastic dial). Speedplays have a Phillips #1 screw. On either, the easiest/cheapest grease tool that I’ve found is a medication syringe with the top trimmed to size. Fill with polylube (or your choice) and push the old nasty grease out the spindle.

Not sure how single-sided road pedals are serviced.

[Author]

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