EasyRider

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  • in reply to: Cracked crank? #1070244
    EasyRider
    Participant

    Update: I was able to sand and polish out the flaw, so I’m going with casting line, not crack. The creaking appears to have been an issue with the drive side of the BB. After trying everything else, I backed it out a half turn, retorqued it, then left a sip of beer on the workbench for the gremlin that got stuck in there when I first installed the BB two weeks ago. All quiet on the morning commute.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]14706[/ATTACH]

    in reply to: Cracked crank? #1070226
    EasyRider
    Participant

    @Vicegrip 159416 wrote:

    I might not condem that crank arm only on the image. The line has no black oxide and does not extend to a corner of the BB socket. It might be a casting line. The crank has some other similar casting lines. Install it back on the BB at full proper torque and check if the crack line changes.

    Vicegrip, I’ll try sanding and polishing it to see if the “crack” remains. The outside of the crank has a better finish than side pictured. Understandable for the side that no one would see on a mid-grade part. Here’s another view:[ATTACH=CONFIG]14698[/ATTACH]

    in reply to: Cracked crank? #1070212
    EasyRider
    Participant

    @bobco85 159400 wrote:

    Speaking as someone who has broken left cranks before after hearing creaking noises, you’re definitely going to need a new one.

    Proof that I know what I’m talking about :p

    Yoiks. I’ll take your word for it.

    in reply to: Cracked crank? #1070211
    EasyRider
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 159401 wrote:

    Sounds like the perfect opportunity to switch to an external bearing bottom bracket and a two piece crank!

    An upcoming build will be external BB/2 piece for sure. For now, I think a $20 replacement arm will do.

    EasyRider
    Participant

    The plan renderings are nice. I wonder if there is the political will to allow this kind of development for non-Boomers. Those under 55 can in theory just buy the older, larger homes their elders are leaving. But not for $600,000 …

    EasyRider
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 159319 wrote:

    Median list price in that corner of FC is $788,000. Just across Broad to the east, it’s over $1 million. So $600k is actually pretty “affordable” for that area of Falls Church. I’m also guessing that the seniors that are the target audience will be relatively wealthy and looking to “downsize” from larger homes further out.

    I guess everyone missed the part where I wrote, “At $600K a pop, it doesn’t really seem “affordable” to me, but I guess everything is relative.”.

    in reply to: What is this thing? #1070129
    EasyRider
    Participant

    Mine is permanent.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]14686[/ATTACH]

    I’ve never used it to “portage” my bike so I might try sewing a triangular tool bag for that spot. Probably someone in Portland sells one already.

    EasyRider
    Participant

    @Birru 159298 wrote:

    I’m not sure why some folks are opposed to a plan that actually builds relatively affordable single family housing in Falls Church. Especially since large swaths of older, modest homes have been and continue to be torn down to build large, $1 million+ houses around here.

    Not sure one could call it affordable or family housing. It’s an age-restricted development, for those 55 and older. Not sure if it’s also a “no-kids” development or if that’s just a a softer way of advertising the same. At $600K a pop, it doesn’t really seem “affordable” to me, but I guess everything is relative. For better or worse, I think a community of well to do retired people living steps from the path will exert A LOT influence on the future of the W&OD in Falls Church.

    EasyRider
    Participant

    Pardon my ignorance … is chainline on 2-piece cranks adjustable, or does having an integrated spindle mean that it is what it is? Do 2-piece cranks typically have fairly wide tread/q-factor to accomodate a range of bikes, or are they pretty narrow/ergonomic?

    Agree with drevil, the argument for 3-piece cranksets, including square taper, is versatility/adjustability. Almost any square taper crank can be used on almost any bike because BB spindle length and chainrings can be changed out.

    Gonna do a 2 piece on my next build.

    EasyRider
    Participant

    @drevil 159005 wrote:

    The reasons I can think of:

    1. Cost – have a cheap bike, townie or fixie you don’t want to spend a lot of money on? You can get set up with a square taper crank and BB for <$60 with a square taper setup.
    2. Custom(ization) – Six years ago, I had my custom fat bike designed to have the shortest chainstays up until then (415mm, but be able to clear a 4″ tire). This required a custom BB (it was the widest Phil Wood made :D). ShRAManoFace* had no 2-piece cranks that would even be close to fitting at the time, and they still don’t AFAIK.
    3. Need a crankarm length that isn’t 170mm-180mm – I use 165mm crankarms on most of my good bikes. I have never seen that length from ShRAMano in a configuration I wanted (I usually put on bash guards, which needs to be able to be mounted in the outer position).

    All that said, if I ever have a custom bike made again, it will use a 2-piece crank and be off the shelf. For reasons already mentioned (bigger bearings, more durability, easier installation and removal), I will always choose 2-piece cranks.

    *- Shimano, SRAM, RaceFace

    Since drevil is my ask-questions-guy, does that mean that chainline on two-piece cranks/external BB is not at all adjustable? I do like that about square taper cartridge spindles … you can use them on all sorts of bikes. If the chainstays are wide or narrow, you just get a wide or narrow cartridge so they don’t hit the chainstay. Varying spindle length is also useful for fixed gear conversions.

    EasyRider
    Participant

    @vvill 158974 wrote:

    After switching one of my bikes from square taper to external BB I ended up switching all of them (even the beater bikes). I much prefer them!

    What is it that you prefer about them? I am curious about going external BB for an upcoming build but don’t yet have a rationale, except that despite having the tools and experience to install and remove square taper cranks, doing it still makes me a bit apprehensive.

    EasyRider
    Participant

    Yeah, I get the compatibility with modern parts, and figured with larger bearings, durability should be better. But in practice, doesn’t having the bearings outside the frame expose them to grit and grime, especially off-pavement, and make them go kaput sooner? Kaput meaning rough and unpleasant feeling, not necessarily failure like the above picture?

    EasyRider
    Participant

    @hozn 158961 wrote:

    Upgrading to external-cup BB is probably worth putting on the list. Probably makes sense to decide if you like 1x and then, if so, just get one of the SRAM 1 cranksets. Looks like Apex 1 cranksets are around $100 (when you include the BB). Looks like they also use a new chainring BCD “standard”, though !?? Maybe SRAM didn’t like Shimano having all the fun making up new standards.

    Upgrading to external BB — for performance gains/compatibility with more advanced cranksets, not durability, right?

    EasyRider
    Participant

    Dang. I don’t think that’s supposed to happen. (BB explosion)

    EasyRider
    Participant

    I hope they will revisit this decision in a year or two. I don’t live in Westover but would if I could afford to, and for me, the bigger picture is that bailouts from 66 eastbound and the success of places like Ayers, Italian Store, Westover Market = more and more cars. I would think that additional bike and pedestrian infrastructure would improve the quality of life for neighborhood residents.

Viewing 15 posts - 196 through 210 (of 362 total)