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I ordered the Euro 44-45 version for Shimano size 45. Perfect fit.

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Glad to hear they are working for you. After going through this winter with winter specific cycling shoes, I am converted. I will never waste money on shoe covers I will destroy. In winter shoes, the 45NRTH insoles just make them that much warmer.

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The shoes were a gift but Campmor carries them at a good price. The insole I found at Jenson USA I think.

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For Christmas I got some Shimano MW81 winter cycling shoes and replaced the cheap insoles with 45NRTH Jaztronaut insoles. My feet are very warm and happy now.

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If you use the TCX file on a Edge 200 and 500, you also get turn-by-turn on your breadcrumb trail. It actually beeps and puts up a little left/right turn arrow like a road sign to warning you of the approaching turn which is really nice. When I have the option I always go for the TCX file on my Edge 200.

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That Marshall’s often has great deals on bike clothing. I have been top of the line Pearl Izumi jersey’s and bibs there in the past. Also great deals on merino cycling socks.

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I use the GoPro White Edition on a K-Edge Pro mount. I am very happy with it. It’s very reliable and lots of memory with a 64GB card. I love the K-Edge mount. In my opinion, it the only way to go. I have two additional 3rd part batteries at I just swap out on longer rides.

I also like the time lapse photo setting. I have it take a picture every 30 seconds. Sometimes you get really cool photos. The White Edition only takes 5MP still photos so if this is a priority, go with the Silver or Black. They will take better pictures. For video, the White does everything I need.

Shot at 30fps in 1080p

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Parts are slowly being sold but the Thomson posts are still here.

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The Urban 550 I have is nice and very reliable. If you think the 350 has enough power for you, go for it.

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Additional parts

6.) Problem Solvers seat post clamp – 31.8 size. Mint condition. $15

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@JeremyCannon 91790 wrote:

Thanks, this has been very helpful. I still haven’t decided on the frame yet, but it is most likely going to be the felt or trek because of my EPs. Here are some other questions if someone is willing to answer them:

Shoes?
Does anyone have preferences of shoes for cross? (Again, I’m looking at PIs, Bontragers, Shimanos or Sidis because of my EPs)

Pedals?
Anyone have preferences? Would Speedplay Frogs work for racing? Opinions of Egg Beaters? It seems like people love to ride them, but hate to maintain them.

Shimano vs SRAM?
You’ve been saying weight is key for cross bikes. I’ve been leaning towards sram since they would shave some weight, while being less expensive compared to the equivalent shimano groupo, but would Shimano be a little better from a durability?

Shoes: I like Giro shoes a lot especially the higher end one. The adjusted insole is nice. Personally, I use the Gauge MTN shoes on my cross and tour setup.

Pedals: I have been an Eggbeater guy for over a decade. They need maintenance but rebuilding them is cheap and easy. I love riding them. However, I have been tempted lately to try Time ATACs.

Shimano vs SRAM: I like SRAM but ride both in pick which one you like. Generally, I think Shimano cuts too many corners on the lower end stuff so unless you are considering Ultegra or Dura Ace I would go with SRAM and buy what you can afford.

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@hozn 91577 wrote:

I will do a little more research on that, but think I will give this a shot …. I was also a little nervous about hydro in freezing temps, but hopefully not an issue (?).

If we meet up somewhere, you are welcome to test ride mine to see what you think.

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@hozn 91574 wrote:

Nice. Do you know offhand whether the pads will “re-center” themselves if you switch wheels and the rotors were off my a fraction of a mm (or more)? I have been wondering this. Not having to ensure all (both) my wheelsets use same hubs [for adjustment-free changes] would be really nice …

Yes, I believe they will. There is literally no pad adjustment options. It just happens. That being said, I don’t switch wheels so I can’t directly vouch for that.

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@hozn 91539 wrote:

+1 for the TRP Hy/Rd (“high road”). I did not end up getting these for my disc road build; there was a supply issue when I was sourcing my brakes. I got the TRP Spyre brakes instead, which are also an awesome pure mechanical option. Dual caliper design is really nice (BB7 are single caliper); so far it seems to keep the rotors true, but may be luck/coincidence. I find these need less adjustment (just turn the barrel) than the BB7s, but you do have to loosen the bolt and pull the cable once or twice over then life of the pads.

Stopping power is about the same as BB7. (They claim it is better, maybe a little bit). I will say that using them in combination with Avid HSX rotors yields much better stopping power than the stock TRP rotors. I have both setups (otherwise same lever mechanics, cables, housing, pads) and the difference is quite noticeable. Both setups are more than adequate, but I might switch to 160/160 rotors on the commuter since I am often pulling (and stopping) a trailer. I am currently running 160/140 rotors (F/R) on both my road bike and CX/commuter.

Of course you can’t go wrong with BB7s either.

I don’t really want to deal with the hassle or expense of full hydros, but others will tell you it is much better. The Hy/Rd is a pretty sweet comprise / best-of-both-worlds solution.

I wanted to add that after 1,200 miles on my Vaya since February I have not had to touch the TRP Hy/Rds with the exception of a couple of cable adjustments after the cables stretched a bit. The hydro section of the caliper automatically adjusts the pads for wear over time. So far, the Hy/Rds have been pretty much a bolt-on and forget about it item. These brakes remind me of how inadequate the Avid Ultimate Cantis are on my Norcross EX.

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@JeremyCannon 91521 wrote:

Thanks, and then my next question is Mechanical vs Hydraulic Disc brakes? i’m currently leaning towards BB7s.

I will chip in for the TRP Hy/Rd. I used some during my Vaya build. The hybrid cable and hydro brakes is a nice compromise in power and simplicity.

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