Your latest bike purchase?
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mstone.
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November 8, 2016 at 8:40 pm #1060180
Emm
Participant@huskerdont 148710 wrote:
When I had a front derailleur cage that rubbed the chain (despite whatever adjustments could be done), I put a washer next to the bolt, which opened the cage up a bit more. Problem solved.
Hmm…where did the washer go? I may need to explore this option.
@Judd 148708 wrote:
Why would a manufacturer rivet a part that might have to be replaced?
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That’s a very good question for Felt
This is probably why they offered the discounted replacement bike. The derailleur can come off and be replaced (replacing it is in fact how this issue was discovered), just not the part that mounts to the frame.
November 8, 2016 at 8:46 pm #1060181huskerdont
ParticipantAt the bottom of the derailleur cage there is usually a bolt or rivet. If there’s a bolt, you can add a washer. Obviously if there’s a rivet, that won’t work.
November 8, 2016 at 8:52 pm #1060182Vicegrip
Participant@Judd 148708 wrote:
Why would a manufacturer rivet a part that might have to be replaced?
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They are quick, require little skill and are inexpensive.
With fair skill and proper tools they can be drilled out and replaced. Getting the inside bit out can be a bother if the rivet is in a sealed tube section. I had one that would have been a mind breaking rattle if left loose in the closed section of a carbon frame. I ended up injecting a small about of liquid epoxy into the open rivet hole and then moved the frame around until the trapped rivet bits became mired in the glue. Installed a new hanger and done with no rattle.
November 8, 2016 at 8:58 pm #1060183EasyRider
ParticipantBecause carbon frames are themselves disposable/replaceable components?
November 9, 2016 at 12:18 am #1060187Vicegrip
Participant@EasyRider 148714 wrote:
Because carbon frames are themselves disposable/replaceable components?
Quite the opposite.
November 9, 2016 at 2:22 pm #1060193Harry Meatmotor
Participant@huskerdont 148705 wrote:
Details please? I mean, I can’t be the only one wondering why. Water ingress leading to rust? Goes into self-destruct mode countdown with no way to turn it off?
I could easily see a “simple” job of drilling out two rivets turning into a munged-up seat tube for a novice mechanic. And what @Vicegrip mentioned. Leftovers rattling around in inescapable places.
December 4, 2016 at 11:43 am #1061205dplasters
ParticipantEat your heart out BAFS, I’m coming for you. For those following my bike follies, threaded bottom bracket, internal cable routing, room for bigger (greater than 30mm) tires and added bonuses of: thru-axles, hydraulic brakes and SRAM 1x. I’m rather excited. Going to swap in some Schwalbe 30mm tubless and eventually change to a 50 or 48t x 11-36t. It didn’t hurt that my employer gives a big fat discount on Raleigh bikes.
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December 4, 2016 at 1:25 pm #1061209hozn
Participant@dplasters 149807 wrote:
Eat your heart out BAFS, I’m coming for you. For those following my bike follies, threaded bottom bracket, internal cable routing, room for bigger (greater than 30mm) tires and added bonuses of: thru-axles, hydraulic brakes and SRAM 1x. I’m rather excited. Going to swap in some Schwalbe 30mm tubless and eventually change to a 50 or 48t x 11-36t. It didn’t hurt that my employer gives a big fat discount on Raleigh bikes.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]12885[/ATTACH]
That is a perfect set of specs! Nice bike! You should be able to also fit the 45NRTH Xerxes studded tires, which have to be the nicest rolling studded tires out there.
Schwalbe S-One?
I am debating trying some S-One tires for the commuter, though the 28mm Pro One are working fine.
Only thing I want to mention is that if you stick with SRAM X-Sync rings, you could run into frame clearance issues if the frame was only designed to clear a 50t. The X-Sync rings are (all?) offset inboard by 2mm (and the teeth are chunkier); my commuter works fine with a 50t compact, but cannot clear the 46t X-Sync, so I switched to Wolf Tooth 44t. For me the 46 with an 11-36 was about perfect. I could also see switching to 11-40 with a 48t on that bike to move my normal riding gears to slightly bigger cogs. SRAM 1x is pretty awesome.
December 4, 2016 at 5:56 pm #1061231KWL
Participant@dplasters 149807 wrote:
Eat your heart out BAFS, I’m coming for you. For those following my bike follies, threaded bottom bracket, internal cable routing, room for bigger (greater than 30mm) tires and added bonuses of: thru-axles, hydraulic brakes and SRAM 1x. I’m rather excited. Going to swap in some Schwalbe 30mm tubless and eventually change to a 50 or 48t x 11-36t. It didn’t hurt that my employer gives a big fat discount on Raleigh bikes.
It’s plugged in! It must be an e-bike.
December 4, 2016 at 6:51 pm #1061236TwoWheelsDC
ParticipantA few weeks ago the BB on my Cervelo started clicking. This was after the original FSA BB was replaced under warranty, so there was no way I was going to try and salvage this or put in yet another shitty BB, so I upgraded to a Wheels Mfg BB. However, when I started pulling the crank off, the cap for the self-extracting bolt stripped out (apparently the crank was on TIGHT), so I had to take it to Freshbikes. Even they couldn’t get the crank off, so they had to saw through the spindle.
So while the bike was in the shop, I ordered a Rotor 3D+ crank (no way I was going back to FSA) and went from compact to standard gearing with Rotor 53/39 chain rings, because I just felt like it.
I was actually surprised by how easy it all went together. The BB replacement on my Fuji was actually a much bigger pain. The only really challenging thing was having to move my front derailleur up to make room for the bigger chainring, but I think I’m finally getting the hang of FD adjustments, so it wasn’t that bad.
December 4, 2016 at 10:30 pm #1061245hozn
Participant@TwoWheelsDC 149838 wrote:
A few weeks ago the BB on my Cervelo started clicking. This was after the original FSA BB was replaced under warranty, so there was no way I was going to try and salvage this or put in yet another shitty BB, so I upgraded to a Wheels Mfg BB. However, when I started pulling the crank off, the cap for the self-extracting bolt stripped out (apparently the crank was on TIGHT), so I had to take it to Freshbikes. Even they couldn’t get the crank off, so they had to saw through the spindle.
So while the bike was in the shop, I ordered a Rotor 3D+ crank (no way I was going back to FSA) and went from compact to standard gearing with Rotor 53/39 chain rings, because I just felt like it.
I was actually surprised by how easy it all went together. The BB replacement on my Fuji was actually a much bigger pain. The only really challenging thing was having to move my front derailleur up to make room for the bigger chainring, but I think I’m finally getting the hang of FD adjustments, so it wasn’t that bad.
Nice crank! I have always wanted a Rotor.
I don’t want to be the bearer of bad news, but it looks like your big ring needs to be rotated so that the little chain catcher nub is under the crank arm (so chain won’t get stuck in there and/or scratch up your crank if it goes off the outside).
While you’re in there, you might want to double check that the little ring and big ring are aligned,i f you didn’t already do that. Usually there is an indicator on the little ring for how it should line up with the big ring. It won’t make a big difference, but that is for lining up the shift ramps.
December 4, 2016 at 11:12 pm #1061247TwoWheelsDC
Participant@hozn 149847 wrote:
Nice crank! I have always wanted a Rotor.
I don’t want to be the bearer of bad news, but it looks like your big ring needs to be rotated so that the little chain catcher nub is under the crank arm (so chain won’t get stuck in there and/or scratch up your crank if it goes off the outside).
While you’re in there, you might want to double check that the little ring and big ring are aligned,i f you didn’t already do that. Usually there is an indicator on the little ring for how it should line up with the big ring. It won’t make a big difference, but that is for lining up the shift ramps.
Nah, not bad news. I noticed it while I was getting all the spacers ready pre-assembly, but then got distracted by some other task and then completely forgot to fix it before I put everything together. Took like 5 minutes to fix.
December 5, 2016 at 2:39 pm #1061254dplasters
Participant@hozn 149811 wrote:
That is a perfect set of specs! Nice bike! You should be able to also fit the 45NRTH Xerxes studded tires, which have to be the nicest rolling studded tires out there.
Schwalbe S-One?
I am debating trying some S-One tires for the commuter, though the 28mm Pro One are working fine.
Only thing I want to mention is that if you stick with SRAM X-Sync rings, you could run into frame clearance issues if the frame was only designed to clear a 50t. The X-Sync rings are (all?) offset inboard by 2mm (and the teeth are chunkier); my commuter works fine with a 50t compact, but cannot clear the 46t X-Sync, so I switched to Wolf Tooth 44t. For me the 46 with an 11-36 was about perfect. I could also see switching to 11-40 with a 48t on that bike to move my normal riding gears to slightly bigger cogs. SRAM 1x is pretty awesome.
Yep the S-Ones or like G-One Speed or something? they are changing the name this year? Doing the commute this week on the Clement PDX tires feels like I’m pushing monster truck tires. Additionally, hydro disc brakes are amazing. Setting them up so they don’t rub can be a true test of patience.
I believe the clearance for 50t is there, but yes, I’ll have a bit of angst until its actually on.
Oh and SRAM doubletap is blowing my mind… my ability to downshift is just… like rolling dice.. could go down 1 gear.. maybe two… maybe 1.5. I currently suck at doubletap.
December 5, 2016 at 3:17 pm #1061257hozn
Participant@dplasters 149866 wrote:
Yep the S-Ones or like G-One Speed or something? they are changing the name this year? Doing the commute this week on the Clement PDX tires feels like I’m pushing monster truck tires. Additionally, hydro disc brakes are amazing. Setting them up so they don’t rub can be a true test of patience.
I believe the clearance for 50t is there, but yes, I’ll have a bit of angst until its actually on.
Yeah, that’s right; they did rename that tire. I am sure it is a great option — a lot lighter than the Spec Roubaix Pro 2BR too.
For the SRAM brakes I have found that they do self-adjust (to stop rubbing), though they do have o be generally aligned first. Maybe I have just been lucky with my couple of data points, but so far haven’t had issues with rubbing (that didn’t disappear after a few minutes).
December 5, 2016 at 4:57 pm #1061270Powerful Pete
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