Your latest bike purchase?

[hozn]

@vvill 146918 wrote:

Yeah I noticed the RD is heavier, and the saving on the left shifter, cable and FD may not offset the big cassettes. I guess it’s more that if I was going to upgrade the crankset I would first consider 1x as an upgrade to do at the same time. Also, it would be nice to have no visible cables going under the bike (the hydro line can be run internally in place of the FD cable).

Yeah, that’s exactly what I plan to do with my hydro cable when I drop the [internally routed] FD cable for my new frame:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]12528[/ATTACH]

@vvill 146918 wrote:

Part of my reluctance to jump on the 1x thing is needing more specialized equipment – big cassette, longer chain, narrow-wide chainring, clutched RD, etc. and losing the security of a FD for the chain. The gear jumps aren’t really too much a concern for me, although I’d imagine in a race situation with a peloton it could be an issue.

I would say that the specialized equipment is a very good argument against 1x. It is specialized and generally expensive. I think that security of FD is maybe debatable; I’ve dropped my chain a lot more on the road bike w/ FD (and a chain catcher!) than I have on my CX bike w/ the N/W ring (and clutch RD) riding off-road, etc. Avoiding chain drops is an argument favoring 1x for me. The gaps will be noticeable in group rides, I’m sure, but obviously people have survived with much larger gaps in the past, so I don’t think it’ll have any practical impact.

[vvill]

@hozn 146920 wrote:

Yeah, that’s exactly what I plan to do with my hydro cable when I drop the [internally routed] FD cable for my new frame:

I would say that the specialized equipment is a very good argument against 1x. It is specialized and generally expensive. I think that security of FD is maybe debatable; I’ve dropped my chain a lot more on the road bike w/ FD (and a chain catcher!) than I have on my CX bike w/ the N/W ring (and clutch RD) riding off-road, etc. Avoiding chain drops is an argument favoring 1x for me. The gaps will be noticeable in group rides, I’m sure, but obviously people have survived with much larger gaps in the past, so I don’t think it’ll have any practical impact.

It’s funny how much more pleasing it is to have one less cable!

That’s good to hear positive feedback – I haven’t used a narrow-wide set up yet, and I’ve had two bikes on 1x, one 1×9 using some hardware store parts for chain retention (used to hop off easily on Custis bumps, bridge joints, etc.), and a 1×10 using an old FD that only previously hopped off offroad. I am planning to convert my old flat-bar road bike (the one that now has the Ritchey CX fork) back to a geared road bike with a proper narrow-wide chainring and clutched RD as a sort of test. (Getting sick of the eccentric eno road wheel on a “CX” bike – can’t run tubeless or more than a 30mm tire on that frame.)

[hozn]

@vvill 146924 wrote:

It’s funny how much more pleasing it is to have one less cable!

That’s good to hear positive feedback – I haven’t used a narrow-wide set up yet, and I’ve had two bikes on 1x, one 1×9 using some hardware store parts for chain retention (used to hop off easily on Custis bumps, bridge joints, etc.), and a 1×10 using an old FD that only previously hopped off offroad. I am planning to convert my old flat-bar road bike (the one that now has the Ritchey CX fork) back to a geared road bike with a proper narrow-wide chainring and clutched RD as a sort of test. (Getting sick of the eccentric eno road wheel on a “CX” bike – can’t run tubeless or more than a 30mm tire on that frame.)

Nice! — Yeah, dropping the cable and FD (and clamp on this new frame) is so nice.

If you want to try this on the cheap(er), consider using a 10sp MTB derailleur (e.g. X7/X9/GX/NX), since that is same for road 10sp *and* road 11sp. (SRAM MTB 11sp is different [and not compatible with road 11sp]!) And ebay is a good place to find N/W rings; I just picked up a new (take-off) 50t for $65, which doesn’t sound super cheap but is at least less than buying a set of new rings. I haven’t found N/W rings to wear out any faster than normal rings; I preemptively replaced my 46t N/W after 2 cassettes — or ~10k miles — but I assume I could have probably gotten more life out of it.

[vvill]

@hozn 146925 wrote:

If you want to try this on the cheap(er), consider using a 10sp MTB derailleur (e.g. X7/X9/GX/NX), since that is same for road 10sp *and* road 11sp. (SRAM MTB 11sp is different [and not compatible with road 11sp]!) And ebay is a good place to find N/W rings; I just picked up a new (take-off) 50t for $65, which doesn’t sound super cheap but is at least less than buying a set of new rings. I haven’t found N/W rings to wear out any faster than normal rings; I preemptively replaced my 46t N/W after 2 cassettes — or ~10k miles — but I assume I could have probably gotten more life out of it.

Thanks! Plan is to just do a Shimano 10 speed MTB Shadow+ RD with a MTB shifter. As it’ll be a spare geared bike I don’t feel like I’ll need drop bars, and I never quite fit right on this bike with the drop bars (I guess because when I got it, I was sized with flat bars on). If I want to go with Shimano STI later I could keep the RD and use the Wolftooth Tanpan (it looks dumb, but I assume it would work well). At this point I’m not used to SRAM dropbar controls so don’t want to go further down that road (yet)!

[hozn]

@vvill 146929 wrote:

Thanks! Plan is to just do a Shimano 10 speed MTB Shadow+ RD with a MTB shifter. As it’ll be a spare geared bike I don’t feel like I’ll need drop bars, and I never quite fit right on this bike with the drop bars (I guess because when I got it, I was sized with flat bars on). If I want to go with Shimano STI later I could keep the RD and use the Wolftooth Tanpan (it looks dumb, but I assume it would work well). At this point I’m not used to SRAM dropbar controls so don’t want to go further down that road (yet)!

Rgr – yes, that sounds like a good setup. There’s also JTek Shiftmate for converting between the shifter mfrs/models – http://www.jtekengineering.com/shiftmate/ (but sounds like the Wolftooth will do what you need).

It took me a little while to get used to SRAM shifting, but I like it a lot (prefer it) now.
– I like pulling the shift lever to the bar with index finger for “sprint shifting” in the drops.
– I like being able to down shift while braking (maybe one can also do that w/ Shimano? I hadn’t discovered that when I was using Shimano)
– I like being able to up shift by just twisting my gripping hand clockwise (works best with gloves). Kinda hard to explain.
– I do *not* like that when you run out of low gears the shifter will drop you into the harder gear — i.e. since there was no ability to engage the second ratchet for shifting down, it engages the first one to shift up. (I think this varies a bit by model, since this does not seem to happen on my Force 10sp shifters but does happen on my S700 hydro 10sp shifter.)

[vvill]

@hozn 146934 wrote:

Rgr – yes, that sounds like a good setup. There’s also JTek Shiftmate for converting between the shifter mfrs/models – http://www.jtekengineering.com/shiftmate/ (but sounds like the Wolftooth will do what you need).

It took me a little while to get used to SRAM shifting, but I like it a lot (prefer it) now.
– I like pulling the shift lever to the bar with index finger for “sprint shifting” in the drops.
– I like being able to down shift while braking (maybe one can also do that w/ Shimano? I hadn’t discovered that when I was using Shimano)
– I like being able to up shift by just twisting my gripping hand clockwise (works best with gloves). Kinda hard to explain.
– I do *not* like that when you run out of low gears the shifter will drop you into the harder gear — i.e. since there was no ability to engage the second ratchet for shifting down, it engages the first one to shift up. (I think this varies a bit by model, since this does not seem to happen on my Force 10sp shifters but does happen on my S700 hydro 10sp shifter.)

Thanks for the info! I haven’t seen that shiftmate before but it looks more compact than the Wolftooth (should I choose to go down that route).

I mostly have trouble shifting down (to an easier gear), and figuring out how many gears I’m going when I do manage to shift down. But also the shift lever feels somewhat flimsy and I keep feeling like I’m going to break it, since it seems like it requires greater force to move (cf. Shimano) to begin with. I’m sure I’ll get the hang of it eventually. Haven’t noticed the behaviour in the lowest gear, yet, but yeah still having trouble shifting down anyway!

[dkel]

Things for my Wolverine rebuild:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]12539[/ATTACH]

New wheel with H Plus rim and Alfine 8 IGH, Spyre brake, Jtek bar end shifter, centerlock to 6-bolt converter, new cables and housing (including brake housing with built in reflective stripe! :cool:), and rim tape.

I was comped the rim tape. :p

[dkel]

This thingy:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]12683[/ATTACH]

More than once I’ve had to go to the shop to order up a minuscule part for this IGH build. You’d think all these required bits would actually come in the box with the hub! I’m sincerely hoping this is the last thing I need, and I’ll be able to finish the build today, because it’s added weeks having to order all these little pieces one by one.

[vern]

I sort of converted my road bike to a 1x. I was installing new cables and housing for brakes and shifters, and as I was getting ready to run the new cable for the front derailleur, I reminded myself that I haven’t used the small ring on the front in months so, I just didn’t replace that cable. I then decided to remove the front derailleur. I still have the 2x cranks which I’ll keep until I replace them, probably after BAFS2017. The bracket for the front derailleur looks like it’s attached to the frame with rivets. I don’t know yet how I’m going to remove that.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@vern 148584 wrote:

The bracket for the front derailleur looks like it’s attached to the frame with rivets. I don’t know yet how I’m going to remove that.

Don’t remove that.

[vvill]

@vern 148584 wrote:

I sort of converted my road bike to a 1x. I was installing new cables and housing for brakes and shifters, and as I was getting ready to run the new cable for the front derailleur, I reminded myself that I haven’t used the small ring on the front in months so, I just didn’t replace that cable. I then decided to remove the front derailleur. I still have the 2x cranks which I’ll keep until I replace them, probably after BAFS2017. The bracket for the front derailleur looks like it’s attached to the frame with rivets. I don’t know yet how I’m going to remove that.

I did that with my beater MTB last(?) year. It was a triple but no longer shifted (years of being stored outside and being a snow/salt-road bike) – I just cut the cable. Later on I swapped out the integrated shifter/lever for just a brake lever and took off the rusty FD. This year I spent some $ on converting it from 1×7 to 1×10 although not with a clutched RD or anything and threw on a spare FD as a chain keeper. Works great even with kid towing!

[huskerdont]

@Harry Meatmotor 148697 wrote:

Don’t remove that.

Details please? I mean, I can’t be the only one wondering why. Water ingress leading to rust? Goes into self-destruct mode countdown with no way to turn it off?

[Emm]

@huskerdont 148705 wrote:

Details please? I mean, I can’t be the only one wondering why. Water ingress leading to rust? Goes into self-destruct mode countdown with no way to turn it off?

Frame damage.

I had a similar issue when I wanted to adjust my front derailleur and realized the problem was because of the way it was attached to the bike– when I went to the shop they told me there was a very high risk of damaging the frame if they attempted to remove the screws/bolts/attachment thingys that held it onto the bike. Granted I have the issue on a carbon frame so that might be part of the problem, but they made it very clear they would not remove it. I got a second opinion from a different shop and they agreed frame damage was a likely scenario so no one would touch it. I just have to live with some chain rubbing on the lowest gear

The bike’s manufacturer offered me ~50% off a new bike since they agreed there was no fix. I haven’t taken them up on it, but maybe one day will.

[Judd]

Why would a manufacturer rivet a part that might have to be replaced?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[huskerdont]

@Emm 148706 wrote:

Frame damage.

I had a similar issue when I wanted to adjust my front derailleur and realized the problem was because of the way it was attached to the bike– when I went to the shop they told me there was a very high risk of damaging the frame if they attempted to remove the screws/bolts/attachment thingys that held it onto the bike. Granted I have the issue on a carbon frame so that might be part of the problem, but they made it very clear they would not remove it. I got a second opinion from a different shop and they agreed frame damage was a likely scenario so no one would touch it. I just have to live with some chain rubbing on the lowest gear

The bike’s manufacturer offered me ~50% off a new bike since they agreed there was no fix. I haven’t taken them up on it, but maybe one day will.

When I had a front derailleur cage that rubbed the chain (despite whatever adjustments could be done), I put a washer next to the bolt, which opened the cage up a bit more. Problem solved.

[Author]

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