Rear Hubs, what are they good for?

[sethpo]

Alright, Elite Wheel Experts, I have rear hub issues and need some help here.

On Wheel #1 (Alexis Rims, generic (?) hub) that came stock w/ my Nashbar bike the hub is audibly grinding and no long rolls smoothly. FWIW, I had previously exchanged this wheelset once and Nashbar replaced the wheels with the same cheap model. I’m already having the same bearings (?) issue with the replacement. Needless to say, they put the least expensive wheels on this bike so I’m not all the surprised given how much use I’ve gotten out of them.

On Wheel #2 (Bontrager R1 that came stock on my 2012 Trek road bike) have a ton of miles (7k-8k) and is showing lateral play no matter how much I tighten the skewer. I suspect the hub on this wheel is going as well (and given its heavy use am not surprised or disappointed).

Question: Is it possible and practical to repair or even replace either of these hubs? I think I can get a decent enough replacement wheel for about $100. I’ve done a lot of research on hubs and still can’t figure out if these are something fixable or if it’s just time to replace. And if I replace them, do I just scrap the old wheels? Does anyone refurbish these for some karmic purpose? The rims are still good.

Topic

[Raymo853]

Many hubs can be taken apart, the bearings replaced and re-greased. It is a good skill to learn, however, you hubs may not be worth the trouble, well… they are perfect for hands on lesson. Even if they are not great afterwards you will not loose a lot.

My round about answer? Buy a NEW rear wheel. Try to get a hub like a Shimano105. Then rebuild the hub on the Bonti one to learn how it is done.

[Dirt]

I don’t know the specifics of those hubs, but if they use cup and cone bearings, they are easily serviced. We charge about $40 for a full hub service. If they have cartridge bearings, we can replace those. Sometimes cartridge bearings can be cleaned and re-greased so that they work well. Sometimes the bearings need to be replaced.

I do this kind of thing every week. I’d much rather service a hub than replace the wheel. Often times, the cost of an inexpensive, machine-built wheel is lower than the cost of rebuilding a wheel. The disposable nature of that bothers me… except that we send wheels that have been replaced to Bikes for the World and they most often go to people in need in the Third World. It is some consolation.

We’re not the only shop that does this kind of work, obviously… most good bike shops will do this kind of work.

If you can’t find a shop close to you to do this kind of work, stop by Bikenetic in Falls Church. We’re happy to work with them.

Thanks!

Pete

[hozn]

It is probably worth spending a bit more on your wheels. A wheel only lasting 7-8k miles seems way too short. My last set of disc-brake commuter wheels were still just fine at around 12k miles before I replaced them when switching axle standards. These were just BHS hubs (Taiwanese hubs, Enduro stainless cartridge bearings). I would expect 20k miles on those before any attention was needed. Apparently replacing the bearings on those hubs is also easy with a socket wrench, just never had to do anything with hub bearings yet.

[jabberwocky]

For both wheels, sounds like the bearings need servicing. As others have noted, there are a few different ways hubs do bearings. Cup and cone is the old school method (I think most Shimano hubs still use them, for example). They can be tightened to remove play, and opened and serviced to be cleaned. Or, many hubs these days use cartridge bearings (think skate/rollerblade bearings). These are a pre-manufactured assemblies. They generally can’t be adjusted for play; once they develop play its time to replace them. Note that for the most part hub manufacturers are not using some weird size. They are sourcing standard bearings from somewhere and popping them into an aluminum body, so they shouldn’t be expensive to replace.

A crunchy bearing can be cleaned and regreased. If the race or balls have corrosion or pitting they will need replacement.

Note that bearings are a wear item. No bearing lasts forever. Regular service will greatly extend the life of any bearing.

[Crickey7]

I’d vote for tossing the first hub. If the bearings are corroded, chipped or broken, they’ve probably already scored the cup walls, and in short order these will destroy the new bearings. I concur with the others that 7k is a pretty short lifespan. My hubs typically last twice that, even not very good ones. And I’m hard on my equipment. Did you do a lot of riding in the rain? It’s possible that a cheap hub might let more water in, which washed out the original grease.

[sethpo]

Thanks, folks.

I was able to tighten the bolts on the Bontrager hub which eliminated the lateral play so I think I’m good there…for now.

On the Alexis wheel w/ the grinding noise, I don’t think I have the tools to even take it apart so that becomes part of the cost equation as well.

I did bring it into a shop one morning and of course the grinding noise didn’t happen while on the stand (but has since gotten worse and now I’m not running that wheel). The guy said all they really could do was a $15 “adjustment service” on it anyway.

I guess I need to decide if I want to invest in the tools and dig into this or spend $100 on a replacement spare wheel for my wider treaded tires. I do agree with Pete’s aversion disposable bike parts…

[jabberwocky]

@sethpo 96883 wrote:

I guess I need to decide if I want to invest in the tools and dig into this or spend $100 on a replacement spare wheel for my wider treaded tires. I do agree with Pete’s aversion disposable bike parts…

I don’t like disposable parts either (hell, I have 5 pairs of Chris King hubs between my bikes), but its often simply not cost effective to put a lot of labor into a cheap parts unless you’re doing it yourself. Especially since an older cheap wheel is likely to develop other issues sooner rather than later. My solution is often to post it up for sale cheap/giveaway and let someone take it on as a project. I’ve gotten rid of a number of cheap wheels that way over the years.

Money spent on tools, however, is always money well spent.

[DismalScientist]

I’ve noticed on the Nashbar bike that I bought that they may be stingy on the original grease in the hubs. There is nothing you can do if the races are bad from running without grease.

[sethpo]

@jabberwocky 96888 wrote:

My solution is often to post it up for sale cheap/giveaway and let someone take it on as a project. I’ve gotten rid of a number of cheap wheels that way over the years.

Money spent on tools, however, is always money well spent.

Anyone want a cheap wheel w/ bad bearings

And yes, generally agree on the tools which is why I now own…many tools. And now I will soon own a set of cone wrenches. 13/15mm are the most common size, yes?

[Dirt]

A few more ideas.

If the grinding is truly intermittent, then it might be possible to have the hub rebuilt. Cleaning out the bearings and puting in fresh grease might give it another year or so of decent service. It will at least make it quieter, if not smoother and make it an acceptable beater wheel to use for Freezing saddles.

An inexpensive replacement wheel — No name hub, DT Spokes, Alex rim — goes for $48. That is for a quick release, cassette hub and a silver rim. Threaded hubs for freewheels are similarly priced. Other options exist for reasonably-priced, new wheels. There are other options for reasonably priced wheels that go up to about $80. There are wheels designed for “more robust” riders (as Assos calls them) that have more spokes and a little more durable rims. These are nothing special, but they work pretty well for us. Cost to move your cassette, tire and tube over runs about $20. It makes sense to replace the rim strip. That’s another $5. That puts total out of pocket for a new rear wheel starting at about $72 + tax. If you’re a WABA member, it would be 10% off that.

Generally we do between 2 and 5 of these kinds of wheel replacements per week. Of the 4 people who wrench at the shop, I’m the most likely to open up a hub to see if I can rescue it. I would much rather not create waste. Some hubs can’t be saved! Some people are not willing to put up with a hub that doesn’t run 100% smooth for the sake of reducing waste. I’m pretty realistic about what I can and cannot save.

Bikenetic is a donation center for Bikes For The World. Your old wheel would be donated to them, where it would go to serve someone who didn’t mind it grinding a bit or was willing to fix it themselves. During the main cycling season, our customers donate between 2 and 10 bikes per week, dozens of tires and tubes that still have some life in them with the help of some creative patching and many other things that go to the third world to hopefully make life a little better.

[sethpo]

Update: Thanks to everyone for the input. I ended up taking the hub apart, cleaning and repacking the bearings. The grease that was there was very thin and watery. I replaced that with some good thick goop and put it all back together and it seems fine. Like most other things, watching few videos and giving it a try worked.

[Author]

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