Gravel Inadequacy
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- This topic has 19 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 11 years ago by
hozn.
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April 21, 2014 at 4:31 pm #999042
mstone
ParticipantSwapping the rear derailleur for MTB one is generally easy (though you can run into problems with 10 speed MTB, I would guess that’s not an issue). You can’t swap the front der, so MTB front crank can cause shifting difficulties. With a 30 small that shouldn’t be an issue either. Probably cheaper to start swapping out the rear components and see if you need to go further, unless you’re in the market for a new crank anyway.
April 21, 2014 at 4:51 pm #999051Phatboing
Participant@JimF22003 82967 wrote:
1) increase rear cassette range to at least 32 and preferably 34 or 36 teeth. I think I’ve seen some people switch to a mountain bike RD for this without having to swap the shift levers.
This might be possible while keeping the Ultegra RD. I’m running a 11-32 on the Fargo, with the Ultegra RD (medium cage, I believe), and it’s totally fine and wonderful. I’ve taken it MTB-ing in Lake Fairfax, and the new gearing eliminated all the issues I had with the wheel spinning out on climbs.
Two minor issues: The jockey gear hits the cog when in the highest (11t) gear, and it also hits the cog in the granny-32 combination (but not in the middle-32 combo). The former isn’t a problem because hey, it’s a Fargo, and I have no need to go that fast, and the latter is similarly not a problem, because hey, it’s a Fargo, and I’m not climbing trees with it.
April 21, 2014 at 6:25 pm #99908583b
ParticipantOn my road/cross bike I’ve got old 9 speed Ultegra (6500 or older). The rear derailleur is a medium cage and I can run a 34 tooth cassette by flipping the b-screw around so that the screw’s head rests on the derailleur hanger. The shift range is somewhat limited; I don’t cross chain within the last two gears, which takes some attention. Basically the same setup and problems as Phatboing above.
With a compact crank that gets me a 1:1 low gear, which is occasionally very useful.
April 21, 2014 at 11:50 pm #999139Kaboose
ParticipantWhat size tooth combination do you have for your crankset?
I’m also in agreement with the previous two posts, if you know for sure that your rear derailleur is a mid-caged length, a bigger cassette is the best and cheapest option. If you have a short cage, then you don’t necessarily have to get a mountain derailleur to get a much bigger gear range, just get one with a longer cage. Depending on the size of the front crankset, you could do a medium cage 11-32 to get a larger range. If you don’t know if you have a short or medium cage, you can either go to a bike shop and ask what size it is, or google the part number on the back of the derailleur.
April 22, 2014 at 7:45 am #999156JimF22003
ParticipantThanks for the advice. I think I could go to a 28 on the back without changing anything else, but I don’t think that would buy me too much. Truthfully I’m looking for an excuse to buy a new bike, but I’m just not sure how much of this kind of riding I’ll actually do. I’m mainly a road person, and will probably always be one.
April 22, 2014 at 4:23 pm #999216Phatboing
Participant@JimF22003 83098 wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I think I could go to a 28 on the back without changing anything else, but I don’t think that would buy me too much. Truthfully I’m looking for an excuse to buy a new bike, but I’m just not sure how much of this kind of riding I’ll actually do. I’m mainly a road person, and will probably always be one.
I must admit, I had me a good larf upon reading this.
Presented for your consideration:
If I hadn’t gotten such a good deal on my Colossal, I’d have gotten this: http://www.ninerbikes.com/RLT9 (the excuse to get one being that it ticks many boxes for both roading and off-roading)
April 22, 2014 at 4:30 pm #99921883b
ParticipantI think that Niner looks amazing!
April 22, 2014 at 5:59 pm #999226JimF22003
ParticipantA lot of the new bikes I’m seeing for sale tend to come with an 11/30 cassette and what I think is called a “mid-compact” crank with 46/36 teeth. I’m wondering if a 36/30 low gear would cut it? I imagine I could put a 34 on the inner ring, since that’s what works on regular compact 50/34 setup.
I may have to see if I can wrangle a bike to try for a couple of hours to see how it works. Maybe I can get away with a little bit more of the He-Man gearing.
April 22, 2014 at 6:20 pm #999232Greenbelt
ParticipantDon’t you just need a triple front chainring (granny gear)?
http://www.bianchiusa.com/bikes/road/steel/volpe/
April 22, 2014 at 6:27 pm #999234mstone
Participant@Greenbelt 83176 wrote:
Don’t you just need a triple front chainring (granny gear)?
That’s an expensive change. (Swapping out the cassette and maybe the rear derailleur doesn’t cost much, putting on a triple basically means replacing the whole drivetrain. You need a new brifter, which really means a new pair of brifters–who wants one new one and one crufty one? So you’re looking at new brifters, new crank, new front derailleur. At that point, might as well upgrade to a larger cassette also. And then do you really want to use the old rear derailleur with new everything else?) Now if you’re looking to buy a new bike, go for it.
April 22, 2014 at 6:35 pm #999236Greenbelt
Participant@mstone 83178 wrote:
That’s an expensive change. (Swapping out the cassette and maybe the rear derailleur doesn’t cost much, putting on a triple basically means replacing the whole drivetrain. You need a new brifter, which really means a new pair of brifters–who wants one new one and one crufty one? So you’re looking at new brifters, new crank, new front derailleur. At that point, might as well upgrade to a larger cassette also. And then do you really want to use the old rear derailleur with new everything else?) Now if you’re looking to buy a new bike, go for it.
I was thinking n+1, of course.
April 22, 2014 at 8:03 pm #999251DismalScientist
Participant@mstone 83178 wrote:
That’s an expensive change. (Swapping out the cassette and maybe the rear derailleur doesn’t cost much, putting on a triple basically means replacing the whole drivetrain.
Bah… You just need a nice new friction bar end (or better yet downtube) shifter.:rolleyes:
April 22, 2014 at 8:12 pm #999254consularrider
Participant@DismalScientist 83197 wrote:
Bah… You just need a nice new friction bar end (or better yet downtube) shifter.:rolleyes:
Worked for me on my old 1985 Raleigh.
April 22, 2014 at 8:41 pm #999260vvill
Participant@JimF22003 83169 wrote:
A lot of the new bikes I’m seeing for sale tend to come with an 11/30 cassette and what I think is called a “mid-compact” crank with 46/36 teeth. I’m wondering if a 36/30 low gear would cut it? I imagine I could put a 34 on the inner ring, since that’s what works on regular compact 50/34 setup.
46/36 is more of a CX specific crankset, where the range of gears is closer together because a CX course doesn’t have long climbs or descents (or long anything really). “Mid-compact” is 52-36 (aka in between 53/39 standard and 50/34 compact).
My gravel bike is a CX bike so it has a taller bottom gear than my road bike with a compact crank but I do still use a 11-28 in the back. I think if I was sure I had low gearing issues I would go with a triple – then the bike could be also used for cargo, light touring, etc. But a 34/30 would be pretty low already at around 30 gear inches with a 700×32, so that may work.
April 23, 2014 at 12:12 am #999274hozn
ParticipantBuy the RLT9!
That is also what I would buy if I didn’t already have a great ti bike. I imagine it fits big tires, since it is targeting gravel, but i will say that discovering i can fit a 42mm tire in my frame (and larger in the fork) has really made this a versatile bike. I run a 34/46 compact crank and 11-28 cassette. That works great for commuting, singletrack, pulling the trailer, etc. I haven’t gotten a chance to do any of the gravel rides, but I am sure that gearing will work fine there too.
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