FSA self-extracting crank bolt

[EasyRider]

Hi all,

I could use some experience and advice here. I managed to shear the extractor washer (or whatever the proper name for it is) while attempting removal of my FSA Omega’s NDS crank.

This model uses a self-extracting crank bolt; as you loosen the bolt holding the arm to the spindle, the bolt head’s flange pushes against a retaining washer screwed into the crank, thereby backing it off the spindle. Using a plain old ratchet and not much force, I managed to shear the retaining washer in two while backing out the bolt.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/en/type/bolts-spares/qr-18-m12-nbd-crank-bolt

I didn’t install the cranks myself, but I don’t have reason to suspect it was done incorrectly. Rather, the washer seems way to flimsy for the application. That, or perhaps, the arm/spindle interface didn’t get greased? The bolt came out just fine, but that arm is on GOOD.

I doubt just riding around would loosen it. I’m kinda skeptical that trying a new extractor washer will work out any better, though I have one on hand. So assuming the threads are OK, I’m going to buy a flywheel puller off Amazon with the same threading as the washer (27mm x 1, left threaded). It looks like a bigger version of the Park tool extractor for square taper cranks. (A standard crank puller is 22mm x 1 right hand threaded).

What’s the crowd think of this idea?

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Flywheel-Puller-Removal-Kawasaki/dp/B073QWV451

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[bentbike33]

No advice to help, but given the extremely high torque spec FSA gives for that bolt, if the installer actually cranked it in that hard (I’ve never taken mine up to 38Nm), I’m not surprised it was damaged.

[EasyRider]

@bentbike33 180522 wrote:

No advice to help, but given the extremely high torque spec FSA gives for that bolt, if the installer actually cranked it in that hard (I’ve never taken mine up to 38Nm), I’m not surprised it was damaged.

Yah, gadzooks that’s high. I don’t know if the installer took it that high, since the bolt itself loosened pretty easily, and I was only using a ratchet, not breaker bar.

You should see the extractor. It doesn’t seem any more substantial than a old fancy screw-in dust cap, works the same way.

[n18]

Please see the video at the top of this page, which includes FSA Crankset: Crank Removal and Installation: Self-Extracting

I am not sure if you need 27mm x 1 crank puller, but the Amazon page you linked to is for a product that ships from China. This one ships from the US, and has same day delivery option.

More YouTube videos about FSA Crankset removal.

[TwoWheelsDC]

This happened to me…here was my solution (after having two bike shops try removing it “normally”):

[EasyRider]

@n18 180526 wrote:

Please see the video at the top of this page, which includes FSA Crankset: Crank Removal and Installation: Self-Extracting

I am not sure if you need 27mm x 1 crank puller, but the Amazon page you linked to is for a product that ships from China. This one ships from the US, and has same day delivery option.

More YouTube videos about FSA Crankset removal.

Thanks for the better puller option

Actually, I watched that video before I started. I wish my retaining ring was as beefy as the one in the cutaway shot!

[EasyRider]

@TwoWheelsDC 180528 wrote:

This happened to me…here was my solution (after having two bike shops try removing it “normally”):

That looks like the way to go if this motorcycle tool doesn’t work. You squeezed a hacksaw blade in there, yes? Mine looked a little too tight to get a sawzall in there, it’d probably bind.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@EasyRider 180530 wrote:

@TwoWheelsDC 180528 wrote:

This happened to me…here was my solution (after having two bike shops try removing it “normally”):

That looks like the way to go if this motorcycle tool doesn’t work. You squeezed a hacksaw blade in there, yes? Mine looked a little too tight to get a sawzall in there, it’d probably bind.

I actually let FreshBikes handle it, since it’s a carbon frame and they sold it to me. I assume they used a hacksaw. They charged me like $20, which was less than BicycleSpace charged me for their aborted attempt.

[dkel]

@TwoWheelsDC 180531 wrote:

I actually let FreshBikes handle it, since it’s a carbon frame and they sold it to me. I assume they used a hacksaw. They charged me like $20, which was less than BicycleSpace charged me for their aborted attempt.

I’m surprised you were charged for work not able to be completed. Is that typical?

[huskerdont]

@dkel 180532 wrote:

I’m surprised you were charged for work not able to be completed. Is that typical?

I’m no expert, but that looks pretty much completed to me. That crank is done and dusted.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@dkel 180532 wrote:

I’m surprised you were charged for work not able to be completed. Is that typical?

I think it was probably charge-worthy, because they spent several hours trying to tap the threads of the self-extracting bolt and such. The amount struck me as a little high, but not outrageous. I was actually surprised at how little FB charged me.

[EasyRider]

@EasyRider 180529 wrote:

Thanks for the better puller option

Actually, I watched that video before I started. I wish my retaining ring was as beefy as the one in the cutaway shot!

The puller arrives tonight and I’ll report on how that goes, but in the meantime, I had ordered a replacement bolt assembly and it just arrived. Identical to the original, with one exception. There’s a concave washer that goes between the bolt and the retaining ring. The original bolt assembly used a stiff metal one. The replacement has one made of pliable black plastic. Perhaps the steel washer scored the inside of the retaining ring as the bolt was removed, and that helps account for why the retaining ring broke in half on removal.

[EasyRider]

@EasyRider 180587 wrote:

The puller arrives tonight and I’ll report on how that goes, but in the meantime, I had ordered a replacement bolt assembly and it just arrived. Identical to the original, with one exception. There’s a concave washer that goes between the bolt and the retaining ring. The original bolt assembly used a stiff metal one. The replacement has one made of pliable black plastic. Perhaps the steel washer scored the inside of the retaining ring as the bolt was removed, and that helps account for why the retaining ring broke in half on removal.

Sadly the puller tool didn’t quite work. It was the correct one to use, but when the retaining ring broke it damaged the threads. The tool couldn’t fully engage, and even trying to crank it in there with a big wrench didn’t help much. Threads were quite fine and simply shredded when I tried extracting. I ended up cutting the spindle with a hacksaw. Took two blades and a solid 20 minutes of sawing.

I think the problem here was bad luck, plus the fact that the crank was an OEM cheapie. It’s an FSA Adventure Omega with 46/30 chainrings, in a strange, proprietary 120/90 bcd. FSA doesn’t sell this crank aftermarket, or any replacement chainrings. So I’m happy to give these lightly used rings away to anyone who may need them. The bottom bracket (Truvativ GXP) has a few saw marks on it but I think it’s salvageable too.

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