[Raymo853]

I love the Peter White’s info. Based on his data, I would get one of the newer Shimano units if they were offered with a 15MM option without hesitation.

[Raymo853]

I have these bars on my new bike and adore them. If I needed another set, I would get them. Do not dismiss the isozone pads under tape, it rocks, or actually anti-rocks.

[Raymo853]

@Tim Kelley 123917 wrote:

Want to win a TimBuk2 Commuter Bag?

Maybe if their bags were well made again. Back when the bags were made in the USA they were great, but now they are so poorly made. I have three of their bags, one from the 80’s, one from the 90’s and one post-overseas around 2005. My newest one fell apart quickly and any other newer examples I have seen have not looked well constructed. My two old ones are ugly, but structurally sound, and still used.

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[Raymo853]

I would hope you all do not get rained on, but, we so need the rain.

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[Raymo853]

Another positive thing about L&M’s urban series, the flexible mount allows it to be mounted like this.

One thing, this is the Urban 800. I had it running on low, so 175 lumens this morning. Well at about 6:45 on the Mt Vernon trail near the airport a guy, in a Bike Arlington Jersey, gave me an overly dramatic “I’ve been blinded” reaction and blocked his face with his arm gesture. So for people thinking low mounts will stop that drama, think again.

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[Raymo853]

@hozn 123807 wrote:

Where are you getting this information?

From a engineer that works for Stan’s, who I trust without reservation, and an ex-gf working for Bonti, who I trust a little less.

@hozn 123807 wrote:

If you look at the label on a Stans Arch rim, for example, it says “MAX RIM PRESSURES: 1.0 tires = 55psi, 1.5 tires = 50psi, 2.0 tires = 40psi, 2.2 tires = 38psi”.

Those numbers are regarding the failure of the rim, not the tire.

The 40 PSI threshold has nothing to do with seating or burping of non-tubeless tires. I have have easily seated and ran non-tubleless tires on Stans, Mavic, Shimano, and Bonti rims ranging from 20 to a 70 psi. None have ever burped or failed on me since a Mavic/WTB failure back in 2004. (Why I stayed away from tubeless until 2009) The risk is anything over 40 PSI can cause a tire to stretch enough to blow off the rim without warning. A tube keeps that form happening by locking the tire onto the rim in a way that air pressure without a tube cannot.

[Raymo853]

@sjclaeys 123815 wrote:

OK, but what has that to do with the facts at issue in this thread?

I think Gaby Diaz on SYTYCD is using steroids based on how much neck muscle growth she has shown this season.

[Raymo853]

@hozn 123765 wrote:

Personally I’m a fan of Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs (and Stans rims, obviously), but I doubt the extra cost is comensurate with value (and Hope hubs weigh more too).

Hope hubs are simply wonderful for durability and smoothness, but yes pricey and not super light. About to build one into the it’s third rim.

The older (current) Stan’s hubs are less durable, but once you learn how to change the bearings, convert the axles from one standard to another, and replace the freehubs, you can fall in love with them as well. My oldest pair is in a factor set of White Arch wheels: many years old, third owner, left outside for years. New bearings, new freehub and a few new spokes and I expect them to last at least another two years as CX wheels. (Yes with Bonti CX3 TLR tires) One thing, if you order the kit to convert a 135 rear to a 142 by 12, make sure to ask for the extra spacer. It is not in the kit, or I am hoping by now that is a was. For many of the hubs, if you do not have the extra spacer, the quick release will lock the freehub body and you will end up riding a multi-speed fixed gear.

I know little about the newer (upcoming) Stan’s hubs beyond the marketing copy.

A great source about working on Stan’s hubs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I1E3AI9QH4E

[Raymo853]

@hozn 123736 wrote:

Given that you actually thought it was a good idea to run RT with non-tubeless tires in the first place — when every mention of RT warns in huge letters not to do that, I’ll take your disagreement with a grain of salt

Edit, to be slightly more constructive, here is some helpful reading regarding tubeless cx:
– The classic 3-part series from cxmagazine (you’ll see a number of their recommended tires are non-tubeless):
1- http://www.cxmagazine.com/going-tubeless-cyclocross-racing-intro
2- http://www.cxmagazine.com/trying-tubeless-cyclocross-tires-setup-part-ii
3- http://www.cxmagazine.com/going-tubeless-cyclocross-tires-racing-recommendations
– November just published their findings: http://www.novemberbicycles.com/blog/2015/9/3/tubeless-testing-summary-report.html

I rechecked, the recommendation is no tires above 40 PSI unless they are tubeless-ready, UST, LUST, TNT, UST-lite, 2Bliss, etc…. Plus, kevlar beads are safer than wire beads as Kevlar has a much lower chance to stretch.

[Raymo853]

@hozn 123719 wrote:

DO feel free to run whatever you want at CX or MTB pressures, but YMMV.

I disagree.

[Raymo853]

@mstone 123723 wrote:

And now you know for n+1 to make sure that your new bike can take reasonably wide tires.

Buying more objects, yes even bikes, is not a solution but a problem.

[Raymo853]

@hozn 123092 wrote:

Yeah, those are Grails. In the picture the 42mm Specialized Trigger tires are not setup tubeless; I couldn’t get these non-tubeless-ready & wire-bead tires to seat with a floor pump so I gave up. I just ordered a set of 38mm 2bliss Triggers, though, and will replace these when those arrive. I much prefer running tubeless. To not pinch flat my current tires I have to stay around 40psi, and even then have to be a bit careful. I have had great luck with 32mm Kenda Kommando tubeless (“SCT”) tires, but the Triggers roll so fast on pavement that it doesn’t feel like a slog riding to the dirt.

I can’t recommend the Grails enough; they are really nice rims. I particularly like building with them too — they just build up so easily and build/finish quality of rim is top-notch.

I used to run Crest rims, which also worked great.

Stan’s technical folks warned me strongly & promptly when they saw I had non-tubeless 28c road tires set up tubeless on my Grails. CX and road tires that are not tubeless ready can easily seat up with sealant, but have a high tendency to blow out and deflate immediately. They made me promise to not even ride the 12 miles home before putting in tubes.

[Raymo853]

I can see no way that tires could effect the shifting, unless, the tire is interfering with the front derailleur. This usually only occurs on mountainb bikes when people switch to way too large tires, say like 2.4″ aka 61 mm tires, on frames deisgned around 2.1, aka 53 mm tires. I suspect when the rear wheel was placed into the rear dropouts slightly off, and that is causing the shifting issue. Try making sure the rear wheel is in there straight and fully. It may also be totally unrelated and just an unfortunate correlation.

Regarding putting the front wheel in dropouts slightly oddly, DO NOT DO THAT. Do not ride the bike that way. That is a easy way to crash very badly. Yes, you need to go back to 23 or narrow tires at least on the front.

[Raymo853]

If you are in a DIY mood, you could also try this. Assume it will end up costing more the ordering the ready made part.

http://www.ikeahackers.net/2012/03/grundtal-fork-light-mount.html

[Raymo853]

I wish I remembered where I got these platform pedals. They are simply wonderful and were not a lot of money. I bought them after forgetting my shoes one too many times on trips. I keep them in my car for when that happens again. They have saved one trip so far to the woods near Harrisonburg. They worked great. Took hits on orthoquartzite and I never slipped off using a pair of running shoes.

When building up this bike and another, I have ridden them a lot in different shoes. Dress shoes, running shoes, and fancy, and non fancey bike shoes. Gotten to the point of re-learning how to bunny hop and move the back end around without relying on the clipless assist.

I am completely aware a slip off of these pedals may result in a lot of skin, flesh and pants damage on my lower legs.

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[Author]

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