[Raymo853]

@hozn 135822 wrote:

It is just superficial. There is some scoring of at top when I rode it without lower bearings (I hadn’t realized they had fallen out when I was installing headset — very embarrassing.) The folks at Whisky said it was fine because it is aluminum up there. And a couple of rock nicks, as pictured. Just paint. Yes to islets.

Perfect. I’ll take the for your price of 40.

[Raymo853]

@DismalScientist 135826 wrote:

Does this mean I get more points by taking the wheels off before selling an entire bike to the same person?

I may need to adjust the values.

[Raymo853]

@JonRobot 135831 wrote:

oh sweet! i sold my krampus on january 31st. unfortunately, it was to some rando, not a bafs person, though.

are the points from the sale undone in some way if the funds were immediately (30 minutes later) used to buy a new bike? i’m… asking for a friend.

No penalties for buying more.

[Raymo853]

@hozn 135814 wrote:

I have a Whisky No 7 (straight 1 1/8 alloy steerer) that is heavily used and a bit nicked up, but was gonna put it up for sale for $50 on DCUBM; you can have it for $40 if you want. — Or someone else on forum can if by “good” you meant something actually nice/new

I may be interested. I assume disc and carbon lower part, correct? How nicked is nicked? Like concern one might be structural and start a failure?

Oh, and does it have fender mount eyelets?

[Raymo853]

@Raymo853 135808 wrote:

Got another to give me a score of 8. My 2003 Indy Fab Club Racer is back up and running, this time as single speed cx thing. https://www.strava.com/activities/503922657.

This IF is not going to stay this way. The chainline is just off a bit, causing a lot of popping. The front brake performance a (Shimano R450) is so bad. The rear ENO hub is cool, but lead to the tire rubbing on the brake caliper, necessitating it’s removal. Plus I forgot how easy it is to get the wheel off center with this thing. (See photo below)

I am just going to hold to my original plan for this: light commuter and touring/randonneur bike. The parts sitting around for this build: R700 cranks with 34/46 rings, XTR M965 rear derailleur, ultegra 6600 front, a 11-34 XT 9 speed cassette, a R600 rear caliper, 9 speed Ultegra shifters, Haynes CX Pro front disc caliper, Shimano 3N72 front generator disc hub based wheel.

I am missing a good disc fork and generator lights. Have an older steel Salsa disc CX fork that is ok, but plan to buy a Lynskey https://lynskeyperformance.com/lynskey-endurance-disc/

An no, once I rebuild and ride this I will not submit it for another +1. Nor for the old blue bike that will be redone as a SS CX bike.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]11090[/ATTACH]

[Raymo853]

Got another to give me a score of 8. My 2003 Indy Fab Club Racer is back up and running, this time as single speed cx thing. https://www.strava.com/activities/503922657.

[Raymo853]

I need another healing day, so I will miss you folks.

[Raymo853]

@davidq 135737 wrote:

Let’s gather at Hains Point Citi bike station @9:30 Feb 27th if no one objects. Any place you guys lead to I will be happy to follow

Any FS riders are welcome to join us and any suggestion is appreciated.

I am a might for sat at 9:30 am at HP

[Raymo853]

@Raymo853 135533 wrote:

Looks like Civia is out of business and no one has their products in stock. Shame those look way cool.

Having your fender break off is great for saftey, but then you are faced with how to get the parts home. Yea you could just toss it, but I carted mine home for hours since I wanted to repair it.

My repair was to cut it much shorter and install it on my commuter.

[Raymo853]

@romandc 135513 wrote:

On my commuter bike I busted a pair of plastic fenders. I’ve upgraded to flat metal from Civia:

Looks like Civia is out of business and no one has their products in stock. Shame those look way cool.

[Raymo853]

@hozn 135414 wrote:

so I use SKS Urban Velo removable fenders, which actually have been fantastic; could maybe use a little more coverage down near BB but otherwise keep me essentially as dry as my previous SKS with added mudguards .

I am glad you brough these up and then added the photos. I really though about trying those a while ago and forgot about them. That may make the most sense. It is nice to take them off when doing really long rides or windy dry rides. Fenders on windy days simply break my spirit with how they act like sails and unwelcomed rudders.

[Raymo853]

@TwoWheelsDC 135445 wrote:

Ah yes, another issue I remember having…if your bike has any amount of toe overlap with the front wheel, the VO’s can be problematic in tight cornering, since they don’t “give” like a plastic fender would. Not so much a negative, just something to think about.

The bike frame & fork I am using does have toe overlap. I broke the last fender, a PB Longboard, by tapping it into the tire. That is why I want tougher fenders that can handle that. Of course, knocking a metal fender into the tire may have a lot of other risks associated with it beyond the fender breaking.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]11049[/ATTACH]

[Raymo853]

I am very bad at being consistent on pressures. I typically check and pump them up every so often, to about 60. Too hard, I think 50 is perfect on my wide Grails.

[Raymo853]

I checked this afteroon, it is swampy swampy. Going to have to cancel the ride.

[Raymo853]

Trails were frozen this morning, going to check them this afternoon. Assume they will be swamps, it just has been too cold and damp for much drying to occur.

[Author]

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