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Not sure what your budget is but Trek Travel is probably the biggest one out there. It is pricey but a lot of people say it’s worth it if you’re really into the Euro Cycling scene. I would suggest to bring your own bike computer and pedals. They’ll take care of the rest.

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As a kid, I rode my bike around our hood. Got into motorcycles as I got older then eventually learned how to drive a car then that became my primary mode of transportation. Around 1993, I got myself a racing license and raced like a madman on weekends. Every weekend I was out racing. I’d load up the car with my rollers, blended my drinks the night before, slept early and pinned my number the next day to race. Most racers will say when you greet them on race day “eh same faces, different course”. I guess that’s true in any competitive event. I have a current racing license but I’m not really into packing my gear and driving off to race anymore. I’m lazy like that now. I just don’t feel like driving just to race!!! Ughh. I still have the fight in me but driving is not my thing. So I just ride my bike. It’s my drug of choice. My races happen while I’m commuting on the trail. hey, it’s good clean fun and free!!!

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Awesome. Most bike stores mount the tire logo above the valve for cosmetic purposes and for locating punctures.

@ShawnoftheDread 24960 wrote:

Thanks. I always mount the valve stem in the center of the tire logo so I know where to check the closest for sharps.

With all three flats I found the puncture pretty easily-they weren’t slow.

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I’ve met a few reps from Michelin and Dunlop through the years and they have never said NOT to put tire shine on the side walls. I’m not sure where you get your info from but on that note, I’ve also seen severe dry rotting from tires that never had the conditioner put on it. Car tires are tougher than you think. Bike tires on the other hand are not as tough. That’s why your local LBS uses the mildest cleaner to scrub them clean.

@GuyContinental 24847 wrote:

FWIW- don’t ever sand or apply chemicals to a car tire either (including any petroleum or silicone-based “tire shine”) Really. Don’t do it.

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If you get another flat, before you remove the tube, mark the tube in relation to the wheel and tire. Tank it if you have to to verify if it’s a slow leak then go from there. A magnifying glass might help.

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I’d go for the Cannondale Super Six or EVO for everyday riding. Shimano Dura Ace groupset would be my first choice, (wait for the 11 speed DA version) Campy 11 Record 2nd then Sram 4th.

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I was gonna say…the only way to get rid of the reflective strip is to get rid of those tires. Sanding and chemicals is not the way to go since bike tires are not as durable as car tires. They don’t have to be. What about fenders that say “Back off” with an image of Yosemite Sam toting 2 handguns? Those are trick.

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Bike Club in Falls Church sells used bikes and spare parts. (703) 532-4116. (How do I know their number? I have the water bottle here in front of me) That place is cramped with bikes and parts. Watch your step. There’s another store that just opened in Annandale. They are on Little River Turnpike. I think they’ve only been open a few days so I guess just Google it. Best of luck.

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In an emergency (like I had to do a few days ago) I removed my helmet and glasses to make sure this bee or wasp was out of my helmet while going 18 mph. Not a good feeling when that buzzing sound doesn’t go away while riding. Try that. Just like playing Wii, “MAKE SURE YOUR IMMEDIATE AREA IS CLEAR OF OBSTACLES.”

@mrkenny83 20198 wrote:

I felt the need to post an update. I have OFFICIALLY learned to bike with no hands!

What should my next goal be?!

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Awesome!!!

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Are those the same wheels that I sold you from before?

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Turtles for me on my AM ride. Then a bee or wasp entering my helmet vents then exiting out the exhaust ports. Whew!!! Bunnies on the PM ride. No casualties though.

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Disconnect the cable from the caliper and squeeze the caliper by hand to see if releases normally. If that’s good, visually check your cable and housing for kinks, corrosion, abnormal stuff. If that’s good, operate the brake lever while you’re pulling on the end of the cable. It should bottom out easily as you’re pulling on the cable end. If there’s more give as you’re pulling then it’s probably housing and cable. So if that’s the case, you might as well replace the front too. Good luck.

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Since the pressure was at max, there was no room for expansion. It’s a rating they put on there. Yes, get the Armadillo’s for everyday/all weather riding. They haven’t failed me yet. It’s been 2 years or so with no flats on my daily commute. If you’re in DC today, swing by. We have those tires. I’ll even put them on for ya.

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Right on K. I’ve seen a few blowouts in the shop due to over inflation. Actually, they didn’t over inflate it. The heat expanded the tire then the tube found a weak spot then BOOM!!! Always look at the TPI (threads per inch) rating. It’s like buying comforters…the higher the TPI, the more $$$ it is but it sure is more durable. I’ve also seen road bike tires that are porous. Whassup with that? I forgot what brand they were but I will NOT be buying them that’s for sure.

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