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@vvill 50594 wrote:

I feel like if you know you are going to be riding your bike a lot then just a little more money really shouldn’t be *as* a big deal – especially if your commutes save you money, and help keep you healthy. I know it’s not easy to convince others of that, but if you compare it to the most expensive options (e.g. owning/running/maintaining a car) and get people to treat a bicycle seriously as a transportation vehicle (and fitness equipment), as well as a sport/hobby purchase (how they are often commonly viewed) you might be able to squeeze out a bit more. Although, since this is an upgrade from a decent commuter bike, I understand it may be a tougher sell. You could always wait until sale season (usually after summer I think) to see if any bikes you’re after get a bit cheaper, and you might have more in the kitty to splurge then too.

Cyclocross is generally a good choice for all-round speed although as touched on in other threads most touring style road bikes could also serve similar purposes.

Also: I imagine (I have never sold a bike) that when you add things to your bike it can be a tough sell to really get the value you added from the selling price. You might better off keeping your upgraded parts and putting the stock items back on, esp. easily removable items like a rack etc. so you can keep them for your new bike.

Finally – if you’re a WABA member you may be able to get a discount at many LBSs. On a new bike + accessories it might even save you money just to become a member.

All great points. Especially about selling a bike with “add ons”. I see a ton of bikes on CL etcetera with aerobars, cheapie seat/bar bags, bento boxes, pumps ad infinitum. Unfortunately a lot of people think this adds to the value of the bike overall. More often than not the bike ends up at the shop getting a bunch of stuff removed. If you have a bunch of “extras” offer them alongside the bike as opposed to with the bike.

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@vvill 50597 wrote:

Wait, what? You need to go post here (again)!

I like the look of the Macho Man disc but kind of want a Nature Boy disc Zona to be created.

Still on the fence about discs, but I know exactly what you mean. NB Zonas are naughty

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1986 ish Basso Pista project

1996 Tiemeyer built GT Edge Aero road…

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1994 Eddy Merckx Pista

All City Def Wish FGFS. Basically my fixed beach cruiser that does barspins

All City Big Block. Now hers and being built for the velodrome.

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So, the SO was on the computer last night and was checking out all the pics posted up and she suggested I post up some more pics. So here goes

All City Nature Boy- Now her daily driver

1989 Schwinn Prologue TT

R.I.P.

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The good thing about going for a CX bike to commute on is that the “entry level” models typically have rack/fender mounts. And with the “relaxed” CX geo, tends to be a bit more stable at lower speeds or on crappy terrain.

One model no one has mentioned- All City Macho Man. A bit pricier at $1600 but you do get a ton of bike for the money. I used to work at a shop and we sold tons of the A/C bikes. They have a cool attitude, great dealer service and a very good product. They really do their homework when it comes to well sorted bikes that can do it all (slight exaggeration, but you know what I mean). I own 4 A/C bikes currently, and have my sights set on two more.

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@mstone 50495 wrote:

It would be fairly hard to convert for less than the cost of a used bike.

That’s going to be one expensive commuter. The biggest issue is disc/rim brakes. This frame was designed as a balloon tire cruiser with a coaster brake. The frame itself wasn’t designed for discs/cantis/rim brakes. If you could find someone to fabricate and weld disc mounts, the sheer cost would probably be in the hundreds. Then add on the cost of front/rear disc systems, new hubs, wheel builds…. well you get my drift.

I think your best option is to get a couple of your dedicated commuter pals to go with you to a LBS that either specializes in or does a lot of commuter bikes. Ask lots of questions, discuss your current goals along with your future goals for commuting. Use your friends as soundboards and take everyone’s advice with a grain of salt. The type of commuter bike I ride and would recommend will be very different from what you have in mind.

Do a bunch of research on bike styles/makes/models. Make a list of features you must have, want, and don’t care about. Look at materials- steel, aluminum, titanium, etc.

Ride a bunch of different ones, borrow your friends’ bikes, see what works and doesn’t.

If you like the upright riding position, there are dozens of makes and models to choose from.

Good luck

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Dickie makes all valid points, but I have to respectfully disagree with the advice on warranty. I don’t think Dickie’s 100% wrong, just vague on some important points.

The full manufacturers warranty against manufacturing defects is still in place. So if your new crabon Cracknfail does, The dealer you purchased it from can warranty it.

If you decide to tighten the BB to a million ft/lbs and strip the threads, you are the proud owner of wall art. If your LBS does this they get you a new frame and the junior mechanic probably gets fired.

If I purchase a crank to install on my bike, I still have the full manufacturer’s warranty against defects, just not against poor install skills.

That having been said, if your new bike is pieced together from used/off-brand/suspect ebay components, then good luck to ya.

I know we are all guilty of jumping on the screaming ebay deal, and 99.9% of us have never had an issue. But I enjoy building the relationships that come from bopping into my LBS once a week or so to pick up my next part/shoot the breeze etc.

Also remember bike shops run on beer. Bring the crew who hooked you up something nice.

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Number 1- What’s your budget?
You don’t have to actually say what it is. Is X amount of dollars enough to cover frame/group/everything else, along with labor to slap everything together? If you’re mechanically inclined enough to assemble it yourself, you’ve just save a Benjamin or two.
Custom builds ALWAYS cost more than buying a complete. Unless you’ve got some sort of pro-deal ebay-fu.

Number 2- Test rides
I’m sure you have an idea of what bikes are flipping your switches right now. And I’m sure 99% of them are available as a complete. These you can test ride to see if you like the way the crabon/aluminininininium/steel rides. Unfortunately most (big) manufacturers don’t offer a frameset only option on most of their models. They typically will only offer framesets for their halo/high dollar models.

Now that you’ve dismissed all that as TL;DR, my .02:

Custom builds are wonderful things. you get to poke your nose into every aspect of your build. It allows you the freedom to put what you want on a bike, not what the factory thinks is “cost effective”. Buy as much bike as you can afford. Then see if it’s okay with the SO to spend a little more. Remember- you get what you pay for. Just make sure the frame fits you. RESEARCH! Look at the geometry specs. Check the materials. Get all bike nerdy. Can the frame fit those bad ass Zipp Firecrests you’re gonna buy? Is there a LBS near (within 50 miles) you that is a dealer for Brand X? Do they have any in stock? Go look at the frames close up. touch them inappropriately. Do the frames on your list have BB30/PF30/BB96 blah blah blah?

I spent 9 months looking at frames before I decided on my Cinelli. I wanted a frame with similar geo/dimensions to a frame I used to have and loved. But I also wanted it to be a solid crit bike, group ride bike, and barhopper on occasion.
I got a killer deal on 2012 Force right after SRAM intro’d the “new” Red and all the distros were discounting SRAM groups. I got my wheels from an extremely rich u17 racer who’s daddy just bought him some Zipps and wanted to unload my wheels. They had maybe 100 miles on them and one crit race.

Take your time, do your homework, skip the $2 coffees (except for FCC), and build YOUR bike.

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Ice bath!!

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@83(b) 49990 wrote:

To the guy on a blacked out fixie who (1) shoaled me on Penn at 14th and then couldn’t muster the torque to accelerate through the light, crowding me in the intersection, and then (2) split the lane on the 15th cycletrack and unnerved at least six riders with unsafe passes, I hope you were as uncomfortable as you seemed when you had to wait with me at the next light. I meant what I said, I’m wishing flat tires and thrown chains on you, [anatomy].

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Damn Brendan- That is a serious tool kit. But if I was riding a loaded cargo/touring bike every day, I’d more than likely carry one too.

One question for you though- If you’ve got a lockring tool for cassette removal, and can remove broken spokes on the side of the road, why not carry replacement spokes instead of the fiber fix ones? There is a large touring/rando population where I am and they all seem to carry a couple extra spokes.

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@americancyclo 50288 wrote:

Does the frame obligate you to ALWAYS use SRAM Rival? :p

I love the raw look.

God, I hope not… lol.
Seriously though, Sram has a pretty good grassroots racing program and seems to support the racers pretty well. Although I just got an email from Ritchey about their grassroots frame program….

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@DismalScientist 50281 wrote:

Niagara cycle has Paselas for about $20 each. With TourGuard: about $25. RibMo: about $30.
I typically ride Paselas w/ TG.

well there ya go. All hail the interweb discount!

I paid $25 each for my non tg paselas from my LBS. Still a killer deal

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Panaracer RiBMo PT. 700×32 or 35. Run you around $50 per. Hands down the best urban tire I’ve ever ridden. Folding bead, sticky in the wet, and super long lasting. They will also allow you to run a higher psi than most other “commuter” tires.

Panaracer Paselas (non TG) are typically $25-30 each if you can find them. These are my favorite “do everything” tire. Alleycats, crits, gravel grinding, barhopping… Plus tan sidewalls are Classy!

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