[jabberwocky]

BB5s are pretty mediocre. BB7s are much better brakes. Though they do still need a lot of adjustment. Get hydraulics if you want set-and-forget.

[jabberwocky]

Last year they did eventually plow after the big snowstorms. I think it was close to a month later, but some sections of the trail still had deep rutted ice and snow on it when they did. They ran the plow down the trail held an inch or two above the pavement (presumably so as not to rip up the surface of the trail). That worked fine; shallow snow and ice isn’t difficult to ride, and once its down that low it melts off pretty quickly.

[jabberwocky]

Man, they would wait until I’m no longer commuting on it.

Good news for sure. Even with studs, the rutted icy mess that was the W&OD after any snow was never fun to ride.

[jabberwocky]

@DaveK 11466 wrote:

Not a posted one.

Is there an unposted one? I’ve never heard anything about speed limits on the Custis.

[jabberwocky]

Is there a speed limit on the Custis?

[jabberwocky]

*Hugs his 400L taillight*

[jabberwocky]

For some reason, your post makes me sympathetic with the protesters.

[jabberwocky]

I think it depends on how much you use them. Mine tend to last a long time (years), but I admit that I don’t use them much. :p

Its also the pad material. An aftermarket pad (kool-stop etc) might last longer.

[jabberwocky]

@americancyclo 10621 wrote:

in regards to Bikinetic does anyone know this Jan Feuchtner fella?

Jan has been active in the local MTB community for a long time. He’s a good guy.

[jabberwocky]

Am I the only one who now wants to try and one-up Pete? I’m thinking of trying to juggle chainsaws while riding.

[jabberwocky]

Wiggle has the Marathon Winters for 46.82 apiece at the moment, with free shipping to the US (they are UK based). Studs are worth the money IMO; they allow you to ride confidently in conditions where you’d otherwise have to hang the bike up and stay at home.

[jabberwocky]

I have multiple bikes, so I leave the studs on one of them all winter long. Riding the studs on clear pavement doesn’t seem to wear them much, but they are considerably slower.

[jabberwocky]

@Usern Ame 10460 wrote:

Ever notice that when driving a car people turn off their high beams for each other?

Its worth noting that car high beams aren’t necessarily brighter, they’re just aimed higher. Light aim counts more than lumens; a relatively dim light can be blinding if its aimed directly into your eyes (an extreme example is a laser pointer, which can blind you if shone directly into your eye, but you certainly wouldn’t navigate with one at night).

Car headlights are typically in the 1000-3000 lumen range, a number that very few bike lights approach.

[jabberwocky]

Pete, you are a dangerous individual. And thats why I love you.

[jabberwocky]

I’m not a fan of helmet mounted lights on the trail. Not only because of the blinding issue, but also because they make it confusing to discern direction from a distance (its natural to assume a vehicle is going the direction the light is going when its all you can see).

But any light is better than no light.

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