Your latest bike project?

[hozn]

Nice! I can’t quite read the geo diagram; is that 73.9° STA?

The color scheme looks great. You planing to set it up 1x or is that just the drawing? Did they have to do any special accommodation for ring size vs. tire clearance?

Someday when I have an influx of cash, I would love to do a custom frame with a local company that takes a more holistic approach. I have enjoyed the process of spec’ing far east frames, but there is little in the way if opinion or guidance, which puts a lot of pressure on the consumer to do all the research and not spec a frame design that won’t work.

Hey, I have a flat-mount fork for you! . J/k I am sure you are getting a painted-to-match fork.

12mm front and rear axles?

Can’t wait to see the finished product.

[ctankcycles]

STA is 73°. HTA is 71.5°. The plan is for a Force 1 group. I’m sort of torn between 1x and double. I’m sold on 1x for cx racing and trail riding but I’m worried that the gaps in gearing and limited range could make it less ideal for long, mixed surface rides where other riders have road doubles. Sometimes I think about running 1x for three months of the year during cx season and swapping to a double for the other 9 months but I’m going to give the 1x a chance and see how it goes. I don’t mind the extra cable stop that won’t be used when it’s set up as a 1x. Will look like this…

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14178[/ATTACH]

Re tire clearance, I’m planning on a 700c wheelset that I’ll run for cx and gravel rides and a 650b so I have the option to run tires like the WTB Horizon or a 2.2 knobby. Chainring max will likely be 42t. This Crema provided some inspiration… http://theradavist.com/2016/08/my-agave-marginata-crema-duo-cross-bike/#1

[TwoWheelsDC]

@ctankcycles 156519 wrote:

Sometimes I think about running 1x for three months of the year during cx season and swapping to a double for the other 9 months but I’m going to give the 1x a chance and see how it goes. I don’t mind the extra cable stop that won’t be used when it’s set up as a 1x.

I’m trying to envision a way this would work that wasn’t a massive pain in the ass. I guess just tie the FD cable off somehow so you wouldn’t have to re-run it and potentially the housing every time? Or maybe invest in an eTap shifter and FD so you wouldn’t need an FD cable to start with…

[drevil]

@TwoWheelsDC 156523 wrote:

I’m trying to envision a way this would work that wasn’t a massive pain in the ass. I guess just tie the FD cable off somehow so you wouldn’t have to re-run it and potentially the housing every time? Or maybe invest in an eTap shifter and FD so you wouldn’t need an FD cable to start with…

I experiment a lot, swapping forks and handlebars on different bikes. One thing that makes it easy is a double-ended cable ferrule, which basically acts like an extender for your housing. So for this instance, you can run the housing right up to the end of the tape, then cut it right there. When you want to run the front derailleur, just put on this ferrule and the rest of the housing, then thread the cable through.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14181[/ATTACH]

http://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/connecting-junction-ferrules

[Harry Meatmotor]

@drevil 156524 wrote:

I experiment a lot, swapping forks and handlebars on different bikes. One thing that makes it easy is a double-ended cable ferrule, which basically acts like an extender for your housing. So for this instance, you can run the housing right up to the end of the tape, then cut it right there. When you want to run the front derailleur, just put on this ferrule and the rest of the housing, then thread the cable through.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14181[/ATTACH]

http://jagwire.com/products/small-parts/connecting-junction-ferrules

The other way I love doing this is to run inline barrel adjusters about .5″ from the end of the bar tape. nice and stealth, and lets you swap between 1x and 2x with only a little bit of fuss.

[vvill]

@ctankcycles 156519 wrote:

STA is 73°. HTA is 71.5°. The plan is for a Force 1 group. I’m sort of torn between 1x and double. I’m sold on 1x for cx racing and trail riding but I’m worried that the gaps in gearing and limited range could make it less ideal for long, mixed surface rides where other riders have road doubles. Sometimes I think about running 1x for three months of the year during cx season and swapping to a double for the other 9 months but I’m going to give the 1x a chance and see how it goes. I don’t mind the extra cable stop that won’t be used when it’s set up as a 1x. Will look like this…

Re tire clearance, I’m planning on a 700c wheelset that I’ll run for cx and gravel rides and a 650b so I have the option to run tires like the WTB Horizon or a 2.2 knobby. Chainring max will likely be 42t. This Crema provided some inspiration… http://theradavist.com/2016/08/my-agave-marginata-crema-duo-cross-bike/#1

Very nice! I want to try 650b on my Warbird, although by eye the rear chainstays bow around the 700c tire diameter clearance and look like they won’t handle 650b 2.2s.

I’m also not sold on 1x probably because I’m using the Warbird as my main geared bike (road as well as gravel/etc.) and wonder if a high gear of say, 42×11 will be too limiting. And on gravel there have been times where I’ve wished for lower than 1:1 and if I try it out on singletrack, etc. I bet that’d happen as well. I always thought I might enjoy having my 34 little ring with a wide range cassette (36T or more).

This winter I did swap my old SSCX pit bike to 1×10 with a 42T narrow-wide to try out and had it spin out in the default resistance setting range of a Computrainer during harder efforts. A very minor example obviously (and the setting chould’ve been changed higher) but I imagine a 46T+ front ring probably would’ve been fine.

[KayakCyndi]

[QUOTE=ctankcycles;156519 …

Re tire clearance, I’m planning on a 700c wheelset that I’ll run for cx and gravel rides and a 650b so I have the option to run tires like the WTB Horizon or a 2.2 knobby. …

I’ve been mulling the 650B option for the Classique as well. That Crema look sweet!

[TwoWheelsDC]

@vvill 156541 wrote:

and wonder if a high gear of say, 42×11 will be too limiting.

42×11 is the highest gear on my 1×11 setup. I definitely wouldn’t want to lose anymore gear inches at the top of the range, but it seems sufficient for this particular bike. I think I’ve hit 42×11 a couple of times going down Chain Bridge hill at about 30mph. Definitely wasn’t close to being spun out…more like a “comfortably high” cadence at that speed. But on a gravel-oriented bike, I’m generally just gonna coast at speeds any higher than that anyway.

[hozn]

@ctankcycles 156519 wrote:

STA is 73°. HTA is 71.5°. The plan is for a Force 1 group. I’m sort of torn between 1x and double. I’m sold on 1x for cx racing and trail riding but I’m worried that the gaps in gearing and limited range could make it less ideal for long, mixed surface rides where other riders have road doubles. Sometimes I think about running 1x for three months of the year during cx season and swapping to a double for the other 9 months but I’m going to give the 1x a chance and see how it goes. I don’t mind the extra cable stop that won’t be used when it’s set up as a 1x.

Nice!

I haven’t ever been tempted to put a double back on my commuter/gravel/cx bike. The simplicity of the 1x is really nice and there’s only one small gap I notice. It really was perfect for Monster Cross, though I did drop the chain once there. (But it’s so quick to put a chain back on a 1x system without a FD or, heaven forbid, a chain catcher [that failed to do its job].)

To be fair, I’m also not really tempted to put 2x back on my road bike either (50t + 11-40), though I think the gaps would be more apparent there in the group rides. We’ll see how I feel at the end of the season.

If you do decide to swap, great suggests from drevil and harry meatmotor on dealing with elegant & quick 1x/2x conversion.

I debated trying to explicitly spec larger 650 clearance, but it was leading down a rabbithole of them wanting to use a chainstay yoke instead of tubes if I wanted 27.5×2.1+” clearance. I’m guessing that the WTB Horizon 49mm would fit in the frame, but may not in the fork. Really 700x40mm give me plenty of versatility for this type of bike.

[TwoWheelsDC]

After switching to SRAM on my gravel bike, I’ve decided to switch my road bike to 11spd SRAM over the next few months. My rear wheel was 10spd, but it was in need of replacement anyway, so it made sense to just grab a new 11spd compatible wheelset that I can keep 10spd for now and the convert once I move on to swapping out the drivetrain. And since I was getting a new wheelset, I figured I might as well go tubeless. And since I was going tubeless, I figured I could risk moving from Gatorskins to a performance oriented tire. So I bought a set of Ultegra (an insanely good deal) tubeless ready wheels and Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tires.

As seems to be the case with all factory built wheels, the Shimanos came without removable core valves, so I had to buy some Stans. But otherwise, the tires went on relatively easily and seated with my normal pump. They also held air without sealant, but I added some anyway just for the puncture protection. Going tubeless is definitely easier if you can start with tubeless ready stuff. Overall weight savings was about 300 grams, which I think was mostly due to the Pro Ones and losing the tubes. I don’t think the new wheels are drastically lighter.

I’ve read the Schwalbes aren’t too durable, but I’m hoping they’ll last me until next winter or so.

[hozn]

Schwalbe have been very durable for me. At least the Pro Ones are as durable – or more – than Conti GP4000S tires, which is how they should be compared. Duranos are probably a closer comparison to Gatorskins, but the Pro Ones are much nicer-rolling tires than either. Not having to fix flats has been nice too.

I have never removed valve cores to put in sealant, though — ok, maybe once, but it was not worth the hassle. Just open up some bead and pour it in. My hand pls thread on so I always red loctite my valve cores else they unthread when removing the pump head.

Edit: I also don’t buy valve stems anymore. No-longer-repairable inner tubes offer a much cheaper solution that works just as well as $12 stans stems.

[anomad]

Having lived in puncture vine (Tribulus terrestris) territory for many years before moving here I really can’t believe its possible to ride without sealant!

[TwoWheelsDC]

@anomad 158066 wrote:

Having lived in puncture vine (Tribulus terrestris) territory for many years before moving here I really can’t believe its possible to ride without sealant!

Both of my tubeless wheelsets work fine without sealant, but I still use it. I guess it adds a little bit of hassle, but it’s so minor compared to the benefits.

[hozn]

@TwoWheelsDC 158067 wrote:

Both of my tubeless wheelsets work fine without sealant, but I still use it. I guess it adds a little bit of hassle, but it’s so minor compared to the benefits.

AFAIK, the Schwalbe “tubeless easy” means they need sealant to properly hold air. Their way of saying “tubeless ready” I guess. (The sidewalks aren’t fully air tight.) Actual UST tires can be run without sealant. Most tires are “tubeless-ready”, though.

To be clear, I wouldn’t run tubeless without sealant; that would defeat the point. I just don’t put it in through the valve stem.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@hozn 158068 wrote:

AFAIK, the Schwalbe “tubeless easy” means they need sealant to properly hold air. Their way of saying “tubeless ready” I guess. (The sidewalks aren’t fully air tight.) Actual UST tires can be run without sealant. Most tires are “tubeless-ready”, though.

To be clear, I wouldn’t run tubeless without sealant; that would defeat the point. I just don’t put it in through the valve stem.

That’s fair. They held air okay without sealant when I was testing, but I didn’t put miles on them without sealant or anything.

[Author]

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