Your latest bike project?

[Harry Meatmotor]

@chris_s 142684 wrote:

2 Weeks at UBI: Aluminum Frame Building ($1100) or Titanium Frame Building ($3500)

1 month of TechShop membership ($150) + 2 or 3 welding classes (~$250): $400 total

You get a lot more instruction with the UBI course, but let’s put “expensive” in perspective.

I think the UBI course includes all materials, too. Tech Shop is BYOM. Again, for what you get, Tech Shop is expensive. If we’re comparing apples to apples, you’ll also need a handful of machining and metal working classes (likely another $500+) if you want to walk out of there with a complete bike frame, ready to ride.

[hozn]

@chris_s 142684 wrote:

2 Weeks at UBI: Aluminum Frame Building ($1100) or Titanium Frame Building ($3500)

1 month of TechShop membership ($150) + 2 or 3 welding classes (~$250): $400 total

You get a lot more instruction with the UBI course, but let’s put “expensive” in perspective.

Thanks for the info! For a midlife crisis, I don’t think the UBI courses are overly expensive!

[chris_s]

@hozn 142695 wrote:

Thanks for the info! For a midlife crisis, I don’t think the UBI courses are overly expensive!

Plus, bonus vacation to Portland.

[Vicegrip]

@chris_s 142684 wrote:

2 Weeks at UBI: Aluminum Frame Building ($1100) or Titanium Frame Building ($3500)

1 month of TechShop membership ($150) + 2 or 3 welding classes (~$250): $400 total

You get a lot more instruction with the UBI course, but let’s put “expensive” in perspective.

I have to say that considering the skills used to design rough out fit up and weld up a Ti frame that looks cheap.

A good inverter based Tig process machine will set you back a bit too. http://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/miller-dynasty-210-dx-cps-complete-w-wireless-foot-control-951669?gclid=CO_OsruJ4s0CFYwfhgodh1gM0w

I might be inclined to learn the art of frame building on steel first before moving on to less cooperative metals.
Gas brazing of steel is inexpensive, not hard to learn and you can make truly good looking frames. This is a right purty example. [ATTACH=CONFIG]12072[/ATTACH]

[hozn]

@Vicegrip 142728 wrote:

I have to say that considering the skills used to design rough out fit up and weld up a Ti frame that looks cheap.

A good inverter based Tig process machine will set you back a bit too. http://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/miller-dynasty-210-dx-cps-complete-w-wireless-foot-control-951669?gclid=CO_OsruJ4s0CFYwfhgodh1gM0w

I might be inclined to learn the art of frame building on steel first before moving on to less cooperative metals.

Yeah, I would just focus on steel. (Maybe ti eventually, but as I have no workspace to actually do any of this in real life, this is purely because I think it’d be fun to learn and less about any actual ambitions to ever make anything on my own.)

[ian74]

@hozn 142729 wrote:

Yeah, I would just focus on steel. (Maybe ti eventually, but as I have no workspace to actually do any of this in real life, this is purely because I think it’d be fun to learn and less about any actual ambitions to ever make anything on my own.)

Steel? Aren’t you worried it would rust?

[hozn]

@ian74 142730 wrote:

Steel? Aren’t you worried it would rust?

Oh, I’m certain it would rust; I wouldn’t actually ride this bike!

[hozn]

I think this is the final version of drawing. Decreased tire clearance a bit and lengthened the chainstays to a still-pretty-sporty 415mm in order to straighten the chainstays.

Main faetures:
– 142×12 thru axle dropouts
– Flat mount disc brake mount
– Internal cable routing in front triangle, external routing on rear triangle
– 44mm head tube with geometry corrected for external lower bearing (Hope headset, 14mm lower stack height).
– 68mm BSA bottom bracket

I saw a Litespeed road disc bike in the window at Green Lizzard this AM that looked pretty similar in spec (except QR for some reason). Looks like a T3-Disc from their website; that is a beautiful bike.

[hozn]

I think this is the final version of drawing. Decreased tire clearance a bit and lengthened the chainstays to a still-pretty-sporty 415mm in order to straighten the chainstays.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zf5LhYFHeE3RFS2kx0vsal4zIyGJZJTGwDACSqZZcL7JAZ_5sK5wl-SkutZy1RnVVJuF0njLp3t8NmSVTxmm2C8HuBOlsN08YB9KdnlmWpbIuUJJR_Amd865Y_5KxCyjbjEHPf8jbhtjuAq4k1mfZgpjZ9q8_cRllV7vhkkEuc7bbBVOVmY9n7txYFreEvYvbQvBSDIOdDivkdAF2CQwu0jlzSkegbcX9IsSfaBtgnR9A7xu1R-AGRgr_xaoGIY66oQx6z1m7g3aJDe4iP6DTouWxQFoIjmlL3EuTbt8jbyq-ybPVWFmOPyYgEmXrwe1G9aToijeE0owQ8-i5G1CdUeM4DJWFfIzOHQ5B3WJ4dxfjTmCTpy7ZUfzCzLn5ndmxslZTxdaE3-_mt4YEmLomh0krSD3tHE6FZt__IOS1mP3IQszc8-SLeWYDt0PxmnbXCQhhgmpj66GAABJBF4ikcnKu6h8P0e9cewwW8S7ihloGUhZiiCseg3GTNnOpbsAF52dhu5vWctTIzXf63OvgpiiuEACpdOHWwTcm9BZbyUEGBYMxM8B81JqP3vrC7P_s55HbF55NRF_2RX4KX2xD89qYcLnmz14=w1619-h1144-no[/IMG]
Main faetures:
– 142×12 thru axle dropouts
– Flat mount disc brake mount
– Internal cable routing in front triangle, external routing on rear triangle
– 44mm head tube with geometry corrected for external lower bearing (Hope headset, 14mm lower stack height).
– 68mm BSA bottom bracket

I saw a Litespeed road disc bike in the window at Green Lizzard this AM that looked pretty similar in spec (except QR for some reason). Looks like a T3-Disc from their website; that is a beautiful bike.

[hozn]

@hozn 142781 wrote:

I think this is the final version of drawing. Decreased tire clearance a bit and lengthened the chainstays to a still-pretty-sporty 415mm in order to straighten the chainstays.
[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zf5LhYFHeE3RFS2kx0vsal4zIyGJZJTGwDACSqZZcL7JAZ_5sK5wl-SkutZy1RnVVJuF0njLp3t8NmSVTxmm2C8HuBOlsN08YB9KdnlmWpbIuUJJR_Amd865Y_5KxCyjbjEHPf8jbhtjuAq4k1mfZgpjZ9q8_cRllV7vhkkEuc7bbBVOVmY9n7txYFreEvYvbQvBSDIOdDivkdAF2CQwu0jlzSkegbcX9IsSfaBtgnR9A7xu1R-AGRgr_xaoGIY66oQx6z1m7g3aJDe4iP6DTouWxQFoIjmlL3EuTbt8jbyq-ybPVWFmOPyYgEmXrwe1G9aToijeE0owQ8-i5G1CdUeM4DJWFfIzOHQ5B3WJ4dxfjTmCTpy7ZUfzCzLn5ndmxslZTxdaE3-_mt4YEmLomh0krSD3tHE6FZt__IOS1mP3IQszc8-SLeWYDt0PxmnbXCQhhgmpj66GAABJBF4ikcnKu6h8P0e9cewwW8S7ihloGUhZiiCseg3GTNnOpbsAF52dhu5vWctTIzXf63OvgpiiuEACpdOHWwTcm9BZbyUEGBYMxM8B81JqP3vrC7P_s55HbF55NRF_2RX4KX2xD89qYcLnmz14=w1619-h1144-no[/IMG]
Main faetures:
– 142×12 thru axle dropouts
– Flat mount disc brake mount
– Internal cable routing in front triangle, external routing on rear triangle
– 44mm head tube with geometry corrected for external lower bearing (Hope headset, 14mm lower stack height).
– 68mm BSA bottom bracket

I saw a Litespeed road disc bike in the window at Green Lizzard this AM that looked pretty similar in spec (except QR for some reason). Looks like a T3-Disc from their website; that is a beautiful bike.

And the frame is done! The photos look nice; we’ll see how it turned out and builds up when it arrives …

The only “mistake” that I didn’t catch in the drawing is that they ran traditional cable stops for the derailleur cable under the DS chainstay, whereas I had asked for zip-tie stops (I’d rather run solid housing). Certainly not a big deal (I caught it too late in the build process). I am not sure if I will drill out the stops or just run interrupted housing for that segment. I suspect the latter, at least for the first set of cables/housing in this frame.

[Vicegrip]

Looks nice. Do you have all the other bits to build it on hand?

BTW Who do you use for your lawn service?

[hozn]

@Vicegrip 144778 wrote:

Looks nice. Do you have all the other bits to build it on hand?

BTW Who do you use for your lawn service?

Ha, yeah, I guess they have this plastic grass for using to stage their frame photos.

I have all the bits, yeah. Everything is just moving over to start; I have the flat-mount-to-post-mount adapter for frame and end caps/axle conversions for my hubs. And the Hope headset. Eventually I want to complete my SRAM 11sp group with a set of (flat-mount) hydro brifters.

[hozn]

@hozn 144788 wrote:

I have all the bits, yeah. Everything is just moving over to start; I have the flat-mount-to-post-mount adapter for frame and end caps/axle conversions for my hubs.

Frame arrived. It looks great (I’ll post some photos of the frame / completed build eventually). I swapped over the parts from my carbon bike, here in 2-second time-lapse:

[video=youtube_share;44XiXdRmh1A]https://youtu.be/44XiXdRmh1A[/video]

My favorite parts of the video are where I’m scrounging through the sedge looking for a c-clip I popped off the frame (I found it) and then when the kids make their entrance. The Virb battery died before I had finished the re-assembly. I have yet to adjust the shifting.

It is a pretty heavy frame, relatively speaking: 1875g (4.1 lbs), compared to the ~1100g carbon frame it replaces. I guess that’s kinda the cost of ordering a big frame with non-butted large-diameter downtube, horizontal TT geometry, and 44mm headtube. It’s ok; I always knew this would be heavier, though I was hoping it would be closer to 1500g.

Everything built up just fine, though (not issues with ovalized head tube or any problems with threaded BB or line up of the flat-mount caliper holes). Frame is straight, dropouts correct width, seatpost seems to be gripped plenty tightly by the seat tube. The derailleur hanger needed to be aligned a bit, but I imagine that could just as well be from shipping. The quality of the frame workmanship seems top-notch, though I’m not really the one to be stipulating what a ti weld should look like.

[dkel]

Nice of you to try to make us all feel better saying it was a time-lapse, but we all know you actually work that fast.

[huskerdont]

@hozn 145289 wrote:

My favorite parts of the video are where I’m scrounging through the sedge looking for a c-clip I popped off the frame (I found it) and then when the kids make their entrance.

I saw it as you being attacked by a munchkin with a lightsaber and still getting the job done, but I didn’t pause it to disabuse myself of that.

I seriously feel seriously unworthy after that. I’ve rebuilt/put a couple of bikes together, but it’s usually taken days or weeks and involved a trip to Papillon or somewhere for them to finish something off I couldn’t quite get right.

[Author]

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