Your latest bike project?

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Viewing 15 posts - 226 through 240 (of 287 total)
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  • #1073020
    Vicegrip
    Participant

    A small price to pay for good memories of a cool adventure.

    #1073024
    hozn
    Participant

    @Vicegrip 162456 wrote:

    A small price to pay for good memories of a cool adventure.

    I chickened out and let out the air :-) it wasn’t the risk of sealant everywhere as much as the risk it was incurring to my brake hoods (reservoirs), pushing them against the top of case.

    I can run with tubes until I am able to swing by the bike shop and borrow their floor pump.

    #1073027
    Vicegrip
    Participant

    Forgot about the hydro brakes. Are they the no air type reservoirs? Any air will expand by about 50% volume with air pressure at a bit over 6 rather than 14.7.

    #1073029
    hozn
    Participant

    @Vicegrip 162463 wrote:

    Forgot about the hydro brakes. Are they the no air type reservoirs? Any air will expand by about 50% volume with air pressure at a bit over 6 rather than 14.7.

    Yeah, hopefully they are still well bled [so there’s no air in them] and I won’t have any issues with those. On the whole, I would say that if I were going to travel frequently and cared that I be able to pack and setup quickly, I would strongly consider a rim-brake bike. But I will really enjoy having my hydro brakes and this bike is my commuter*, so I’m happy to spend the extra time removing the calipers, etc.

    Things that make packing this bike a little more involved:
    – 6-bolt rotors slow to remove. I was going to do CL rotors; however, doing that means I have to carry a BB tool and a cassette lockring tool, which are both pretty big/heavy tools.
    – Remove the calipers and hoses, though the zip-tie stops worked perfectly and made hose removal a 30second process.
    – The 135/142 OLD for rear hub is obviously more than a standard 130 road hub; every mm does matter a little.
    – Big-range cassette (11-40) definitely leaves less flexibility for frame part placement.
    – Hydro levers have tall hoods.

    But I have done it a few times now so I have a system. *Love* the Copilot case.

    Without air in the tires fitting things in the case almost felt too easy. Even with a few kits, shoes, pump, greases & lubes & sealant, lights, etc. still comfortably under 50lbs. Heck, I could have probably put my fenders in there. I might leave the fork on next time, as that might work (the front triangle fits fine; the only issue was that with fork on the downtube passed right over the center point of the case, which is really where I’d like the cassette to be for the rear wheel (face down against the bottom).

    * The coupler frame is my commuter frame currently, though I’ve decided that I’m going to get a second identical frame w/o couplers. The way I ride/abuse my bikes, I think that makes sense. So switching to use the coupler frame will just mean taking the crankset off the one bike (everything else has to be taken off anyway). If I end up traveling more, I’ll just get a second crankset for the travel bike so I won’t even have that to swap.

    #1073693
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    Latest upgrade project became two projects. Most importantly, I’m upgrading my Cervelo to Ultegra Di2 for my birthday. I don’t have the mech yet, but I started the prep work, and upgraded the brakes while I was at it. I already have Ultegra wheels, so I’ll be full Ultegra (excepting the Rotor crank) when it’s all done.

    71adbc3837b2af81ce6293b192c02337.jpg

    The second project is taking all the 105 stuff from the Cervelo and putting it on my old Cannondale that my wife sometimes rides. This bike is a great frame, but came with a Sora triple groupset in 2003. I had to buy a new crank and BB, but the shifters, FD, RD, cassette, and chain are all getting transplanted, so it was a relatively cheap upgrade. The only complication is that my existing 105 FD is a braze on, while the frame requires a clamp, so I had to order an adapter. At this point, I’m just waiting for the clamp and new shifter cables and then the Cannondale will be ready to ride.

    The pics suck, but the bikes aren’t done so it doesn’t matter.

    e41e89a3d360e00ad1b5b3d857bcead0.jpg

    The new mech for the Cervelo will go on on Wednesday, but the wires and junction boxes are shipping from Germany, so hard to say if they’ll be here by then.

    #1073830
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    Thx Cannondale is done! Still waiting on parts to finish the Cervelo.

    0596607c80a26a17f89e637274a276f1.jpg

    Found a photo of how the bike looked when I bought it (except the wheels). This upgrade has been multi-stage, replacing the silver parts with black/new stuff. Only thing left is the headset and I’m in no rush to do that.

    d26af707ad8238a110324c09a05d5dcf.jpg

    #1073860
    Sunyata
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 163344 wrote:

    Thx Cannondale is done! Still waiting on parts to finish the Cervelo.

    Does this mean your wife will start coming on fun bike rides with us now?! :D

    #1073863
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @Sunyata 163376 wrote:

    Does this mean your wife will start coming on fun bike rides with us now?! :D

    Hopefully! Near-term goal is just to get her cardio back up to snuff…After a couple years worth of major surgeries, she’s kinda starting from the ground floor.

    #1074357
    hozn
    Participant

    @hozn 162460 wrote:

    I chickened out and let out the air :-) it wasn’t the risk of sealant everywhere as much as the risk it was incurring to my brake hoods (reservoirs), pushing them against the top of case.

    I can run with tubes until I am able to swing by the bike shop and borrow their floor pump.

    As it turned out, I was able to re-seat my tubeless tires with my little Lezyne hand pump. I have to say that while the DT Swiss R460db rims are pretty nondescript (18mm internal width, not especially deep), they are probably the easiest-to-seat tubeless rims I have ever used.

    And I guess my brakes were well-bled since they worked just fine after the flight.

    My shoes are still creaking a bit, but the frame couplers have been great. I do get a creak in my bike when my rear axle comes a quarter turn loose. I wonder if this needs a bit of grease between axle/hub; I will try that out as it shouldn’t be loosening.

    I did decide to have Waltly build me a twin frame w/o couplers, though. Probably a little over-impulsive/excessive, but I think on balance it is worth having the coupler frame as a spare; I’ll just leave it packed. I’ll get an extra BB and headset and then moving parts between one frame and the other should be a sub-hour affair.

    I did actually increase the downtube to 38mm (from 35mm, which was a restriction of their available coupler sizes); that wasn’t considered a significant design change so it didn’t affect the discounted price.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]15337[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]15338[/ATTACH]

    Edit: I also have almost decided that my road bike can be replaced with a set of spare wheels for my gravel bike.

    #1074431
    trailrunner
    Participant

    I bought a Lemond Zurich in July of 2001 when my first road bike, an entry-level Cannondale, was stolen. The Zurich that year was a popular bike, and I saw a lot of yellow-and-blue Zurichs out on the roads. I raced that bike and did some triathlons on it. The top photo was taken in November 2002 before or after a ride in southern MD (I still have that same car, too).

    A couple years after I bought the Lemond, I bought a carbon bike. I still rode the Lemond, but the paint wasn’t in good condition, so I decided to get it painted. At this point, it was a commuter bike, so I only wanted a utilitarian finish — so black it was. I put a lot of miles commuting on that bike, and I would often ride it on Fridays. After a week of riding my heavy, fat-tired commuter bikes, it felt great to ride a road bike with only my messenger bag on my back. In the meantime, I overhauled my Chris King hubs and headsets, and they’re still going strong. The middle picture shows it in this configuration, complete with reflective tape.

    The utilitarian paint job was also cheap, and it came to get it painted again. I found a guy in Richmond who builds and paints frames. I took it down to him in June, and he dropped it off today. I wasn’t particular about the color, and more or less let him talk me into whatever he wanted. The bottom picture shows the coppery-orange color. I’m going to build it back up, but I’m starting to think that now it’s a bit too nice to be a knock-around commuter, and may save it for nice days when I’m feeling a bit retro.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]15356[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]15357[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]15358[/ATTACH]

    #1074800
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 163194 wrote:

    Latest upgrade project became two projects. Most importantly, I’m upgrading my Cervelo to Ultegra Di2 for my birthday. I don’t have the mech yet, but I started the prep work, and upgraded the brakes while I was at it. I already have Ultegra wheels, so I’ll be full Ultegra (excepting the Rotor crank) when it’s all done.

    71adbc3837b2af81ce6293b192c02337.jpg

    The new mech for the Cervelo will go on on Wednesday, but the wires and junction boxes are shipping from Germany, so hard to say if they’ll be here by then.

    After a few weeks of waiting, my package never came from Germany, so I went ahead and bought from the US and will just return the German parts if they ever come. Once I had everything, setting up Di2 was pretty easy. Thankfully my frame has cable stops that are riveted through the carbon fiber, and in spots that were perfect for running the wires internally. So I just drilled out the rivets (as opposed to drilling fresh holes in the carbon fiber, eek) and was good to go. After updating the firmware for everything and adjusting the limits on the front derailleur, everything was buttery smooth. Took it for a short ride today and it works awesome. Now I just have to take some time to set up the synchro-shift features and I’ll be all set.

    3d73f58106234be283af3bb39cfbda14.jpg

    #1075308
    hozn
    Participant

    Well, the new frame arrived, and as expected it is exactly like the coupler frame (the only difference — besides lack of couplers — is the larger 38mm down tube). I love this frame; Waltly did another fantastic job. 1809g for the frame, for those that are curious about such things (coupler frame weighs 1980g, so couplers don’t add a lot of weight). … And so now I have a spare frame (and one that’s in a case for next business trip). Rough life.

    2915e84f197cb4338cc189344b30fb03.jpg

    #1075338
    Vicegrip
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 164351 wrote:

    After a few weeks of waiting, my package never came from Germany, so I went ahead and bought from the US and will just return the German parts if they ever come. Once I had everything, setting up Di2 was pretty easy. Thankfully my frame has cable stops that are riveted through the carbon fiber, and in spots that were perfect for running the wires internally. So I just drilled out the rivets (as opposed to drilling fresh holes in the carbon fiber, eek) and was good to go. After updating the firmware for everything and adjusting the limits on the front derailleur, everything was buttery smooth. Took it for a short ride today and it works awesome. Now I just have to take some time to set up the synchro-shift features and I’ll be all set.

    3d73f58106234be283af3bb39cfbda14.jpg

    Syncro is de bomb. I have been riding with DI-2 for a long time and syncro has made it even better. Tap up through the gears and the bike shifts small ring to large ring and down two cogs, oh so smooth and both at almost the same time. No cross chaining and uses the true ratios availble in order. The system times the double just right to maintain calm in the shift action and not have the jerks or skips in the chain line movement. Takes a ride or so to get used to it but it becomes second nature and i don’t even think or hesitate as the double shift is going on. Coming to a stop while in the big ring? Tap the left hand down button to drop to the little ring and you are all set to reset. Restart in the small ring and as you tap your way back up to speed the bike will do the small ring to big ring at the right time.

    Yes, we humans can do just this. DI-2 does it as well as the best and does it just the silky smooth same every single time. And you can shift cleanly while grabbing 2 handfulls of brake.

    #1075347
    anomad
    Participant

    @hozn 164948 wrote:

    Well, the new frame arrived, and as expected it is exactly like the coupler frame (the only difference — besides lack of couplers — is the larger 38mm down tube). I love this frame; Waltly did another fantastic job. 1809g for the frame, for those that are curious about such things (coupler frame weighs 1980g, so couplers don’t add a lot of weight). … And so now I have a spare frame (and one that’s in a case for next business trip). Rough life.

    [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I_-uoqAv23XVnQcF9bTm6TnTjLkA74XnutoTByhjySJF0FboM7tHaUYr5kX7TSVzmvPyQvSOrNixP3hvx-xLKM2BuzeS1VDHSE_5z2bE6DSoIxvqYpBdyknx6PK3IO7ky4g6runzwit_fOzNgpST48wg5M-tL6UwG9xeSm3pmCOK_6NeDrG2lnMQOb62lduxolKtgaBxYUOjxU0uHQvmP1pl4EQt0utEhUMpc7ihOHXjJo-V_2XgOihz8lGDxaRbm6LslJJbfvWU0oAI0mbB7iq0Q2MQjvo7mLBc7YU6qE2OEwD19EIXzFme4Be0wgycS5038D25ifh1m6tWn-11VDLIyINJiViz9IWmL7RDqi37TXlY_OjShL7r1DTaZrLl_oI4Ebo2NAHgYDH_03K_u3TgFvel_S4OIK-OR8MNfF6DyvUiALYtNEHnYr3QARLvpeK5usLjHRPGA5u25sUMwEJJix67nb02Vy2LhLiOdnf6XcyGmizwiY_kgtqts1M6HngnoFlab82Kyt7nS5bDAcDjaPQxqKh02sTu0pjKSSwcGbSOyGwEN-C9b3Twm02QWT6DrUmxYagre2KenMkoItf6OGhJHFeO3q97ZprBHCHrW4zaIOOxMA=w1619-h1214-no

    Picture no workie.[/img]

    #1075309
    hozn
    Participant

    @anomad 164985 wrote:

    Picture no workie.

    Thanks! – replaced with a Tapatalk upload.

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