Your latest bike project?

[ginacico]

@KLizotte 159287 wrote:

You’re not planning on riding her and getting her all messed up are you?!

@Vicegrip 159276 wrote:

It is a guy too. No pomp, no muss no Rules.

Beautiful restoration! That gem begs to be ridden.

[Vicegrip]

@KLizotte 159287 wrote:

^^^Ohhhhh. You’re not planning on riding her and getting her all messed up are you?! I think you should hang her in your living room. Great job!

That might put me over the S-1 limit. This one will get a front row hang space in the shop and be ridden now and then. As a compromise I was planning on it being a sunny day bike.

@ginacico 159289 wrote:

Beautiful restoration! That gem begs to be ridden.

Agree. First ride was W&OD out to Green Lizard for coffee. 30 miles round trip and I found that while you earn every mile on a DL-1 it is still a good ride. Bolt upright in the saddle, great vision all around and it would be the cheater setup in a danger panda comp. Not going to be crushing any Strava KOMs but I suspect you could hop off and run along next to it on a gravel road and not see it get the wobbles. This bike is the counterweight to my Tarmac*. They are polar opp of each other in composition and disposition.

*Actually it would be the counter weight to a couple of Tarmacs and then some.

[dkel]

Making progress on my Holdsworth build, but ran into a problem today: the serrated bracket that compresses against the top of the seatpost has frozen to the seatpost! I can get the single bolt out, and the upper bracket and saddle come right off, but the lower bracket is on there good and firm. I banged on it with a mallet to no avail; the weird thing is that I put plenty of grease on it when I assembled it years ago, and I can still see grease on the surfaces that aren’t pinched against each other. Anyway, it wouldn’t matter except that the STA on the old bike was 72, but on the new bike it’s 74, so the saddle is pitched too far forward. Any suggestions how to get these things apart?

In other news: $8 spent at the hardware store and now I have a bitchin’ headset press that worked like a charm on the new headset!

[anomad]

I’m not exactly sure which two parts you are referring to? Maybe you have a picture?

For two metal pieces you might try freezing it with canned air sprayed upside down. You might have a can around for huffing or cleaning your keyboard. The cooling will contract the metal if you spray the part that needs to be smaller and break it loose. The rubber mallet will come in handy too.

Soaking it with penetrating lubricant might work also, I like NAPA brand.

[dkel]

Heh. I had put the whole thing in the freezer just after I wrote my last post, and when I went downstairs to take a picture of it so as to clarify what parts I was having trouble with, I took it out of the freezer and whacked it with the mallet…ping! It came apart, no fuss. So, problem solved, I guess. :p

[dkel]

Build done! This is the first build I’ve done where I’ve pressed in the headset and cut the steerer myself. I managed to get the star nut in mostly straight, but I’m thinking that’s a tool-worthy job—unless someone has an alternative to getting the actual tool, cuz that biz is like twenty bucks!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14749[/ATTACH]

[hozn]

@dkel 160030 wrote:

Build done! This is the first build I’ve done where I’ve pressed in the headset and cut the steerer myself. I managed to get the star nut in mostly straight, but I’m thinking that’s a tool-worthy job—unless someone has an alternative to getting the actual tool, cuz that biz is like twenty bucks!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14749[/ATTACH]

I have a star nut installer you can borrow if you need. I agree; that job needs a tool. I did it once or twice without but never got it very straight.

Beautiful build!

[dkel]

@hozn 160031 wrote:

I have a star nut installer you can borrow if you need. I agree; that job needs a tool. I did it once or twice without but never got it very straight.

I got it straight enough, but I can tell it’s not perfect. This is the fourth build that I’ve done at least most of the work on myself, and I can say with confidence that I’m not very good at it! The builds all turn out fine, but it takes me a very long time, and I often have to do a job and then redo it because I realize I forgot some detail. This time I set up my brakes and then realized I had left the levers open like I was going to take out the wheel; I had to unclamp the cables, reset the levers correctly, reclamp the cables, and retune the calipers. So stupid…still, it’s fun to do it myself!

[drevil]

@dkel 160030 wrote:

Build done! This is the first build I’ve done where I’ve pressed in the headset and cut the steerer myself. I managed to get the star nut in mostly straight, but I’m thinking that’s a tool-worthy job—unless someone has an alternative to getting the actual tool, cuz that biz is like twenty bucks!

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14749[/ATTACH]

I have the Park tool, but before I got it, I used to install star nuts with a deep socket, like this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]14757[/ATTACH]

(Not my pic, btw.)

[KayakCyndi]

Makeover on the Classique Viaje is done. Converted to SRAM 1x (38 chain ring 11/42 cassette), hydro brakes, Stans 650b Crest S1s, and WTB byway road+ tires in a 47 set up tubeless. Nowhere this bike can’t go now.

[drevil]

Saturday, I traded an old bike for a slightly less old 1997 Kona Hei Hei Titanium (26″ wheel) frame, 2 forks (the SID and a rigid fork), 3 wheelsets, 4 high end v-brakes, and box full of other goodies. I now have my super-duper townie I’ve always wanted to build for cheap

I was up until past midnight building it to be ready for the DC Bike Ride a few hours later. The Rock Shox SID will take a hiatus while the rigid fork does townie duty because it’ll accept a light weight rack.

1997 Kona Hei Hei Titanium by ricky d, on Flickr

Oh, and those grips – although they look awesome – after an hour or two, it feels like you’re clutching a bunch of nails. The white stars are a harder durometer rubber than the red rubber, and the point of each star digs into your palms. They’re going to be swapped for something less flashy but more comfy.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@KayakCyndi 160060 wrote:

Makeover on the Classique Viaje is done. Converted to SRAM 1x (38 chain ring 11/42 cassette), hydro brakes, Stans 650b Crest S1s, and WTB byway road+ tires in a 47 set up tubeless. Nowhere this bike can’t go now.

What is the purpose of moving to 650b? Lowering center of gravity?

[hozn]

@TwoWheelsDC 160064 wrote:

What is the purpose of moving to 650b? Lowering center of gravity?

650b + big tires like that (those are 47mm) is roughly same diameter as 700x28c. So you get similar gearing + standover, etc. as a road bike with a whole lot more traction/off-road-ability and comfort. 650b rims will also weigh a bit less, which helps offset the weight of those bigger tires too.

I’m curious to try this on my frame, but want to find a way to test for the necessary frame clearance before taking the plunge.

[dkel]

@hozn 160072 wrote:

I’m curious to try this on my frame, but want to find a way to test for the necessary frame clearance before taking the plunge.

Put Cyndi’s wheels on your bike.

[KayakCyndi]

@dkel 160075 wrote:

Put Cyndi’s wheels on your bike.

Of course Hans is welcome to do that but he needs thru-axle and specs that I don’t have. But just to test fit, anytime.

[Author]

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