What tool do I need (cassette and chainring and chain removal)?

Our Community Forums Bikes & Equipment Maintenance What tool do I need (cassette and chainring and chain removal)?

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 40 total)
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  • #1040869
    dkel
    Participant

    @Vicegrip 127626 wrote:

    I just looked at the images of your cassett and RD without squinting and peeking through fingers over my eyes. 😮 We can tear the drive train down and give it a bath in the heated ultrasonic cleaner while cleansing a couple of bike motors with a beer based solvent flush.

    Not getting invited to this party must be the unanticipated downside to keeping my drivetrain sparkling clean. :( :rolleyes:

    #1040874
    vvill
    Participant

    @dkel 127636 wrote:

    Not getting invited to this party must be the unanticipated downside to keeping my drivetrain sparkling clean. :( :rolleyes:

    You can’t use a chain whip on a belt drive sprocket anyway. ;)

    #1040884
    dkel
    Participant

    @vvill 127641 wrote:

    You can’t use a chain whip on a belt drive sprocket anyway. ;)

    There is a belt whip tool that does the same job! (I don’t have one, though.)

    #1040891
    Vicegrip
    Participant

    @vvill 127641 wrote:

    You can’t use a chain whip on a belt drive sprocket anyway. ;)

    Sure you can but only if it likes it.

    #1040892
    Vicegrip
    Participant

    @dkel 127636 wrote:

    Not getting invited to this party must be the unanticipated downside to keeping my drivetrain sparkling clean. :( :rolleyes:

    still need to flush the motor with the proper solvents.

    #1040898
    americancyclo
    Participant

    @Subby 127613 wrote:

    I want to remove the cassette … (and evaluate for replacement).

    You need to get out of your granny cassette gear more, it’s wearing fast!

    #1040899
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @americancyclo 127667 wrote:

    You need to get out of your granny cassette gear more, it’s wearing fast!

    Disagree. High levels of wear on the low-end of your cassette indicates that you stick to the Big Ring, which is PRO.

    #1040901
    americancyclo
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 127668 wrote:

    Disagree. High levels of wear on the low-end of your cassette indicates that you stick to the Big Ring, which is PRO.

    That would indicate cross-chaining which is NOPRO.

    #1040902
    ShawnoftheDread
    Participant

    I’m not sure there’s anything pro about that cassette. Greasier than a diner meatloaf.

    #1040903
    vvill
    Participant

    Looking at those pictures, I’m not sure there’s much point cleaning that stuff. I’d probably just get a new chain/cassette/rings and toss the oldies.

    Either that, or just keeping riding as is until it starts skipping (or is it doing that already?)

    #1040904
    dbb
    Participant

    @ShawnoftheDread 127671 wrote:

    I’m not sure there’s anything pro about that cassette. Greasier than a diner meatloaf.

    Or as some would say, “You could grow tomatoes on that.”

    #1040907
    Subby
    Participant

    Cassette just needs to be cleaned, no? The teeth look like they are in good shape. Chainrings are old.

    How do I know if I have an 11 or 10 speed?

    #1040917
    ShawnoftheDread
    Participant

    @Subby 127676 wrote:

    Cassette just needs to be cleaned, no? The teeth look like they are in good shape. Chainrings are old.

    How do I know if I have an 11 or 10 speed?

    Dude, count the sprockets in the back.

    #1040919
    hozn
    Participant

    @Subby 127676 wrote:

    How do I know if I have an 11 or 10 speed?

    Count the number of cogs/sprockets (gears in back).

    Don’t try to fix what ain’t broken. E.g. the best way to make your BB start creaking is to take it apart to clean it. Cartridge BBs are effectively unserviceable, as once you pry off those seals they will never be the same.

    If your chain skips on the cogs, throw everything into the trash and buy all new. If there isn’t any skipping then just use the edge of a rag between the cogs if you want it to look pretty; this act likely won’t do anything to help it ride better, but it is fun to get dirty in an effort to make things clean.

    #1040924
    Vicegrip
    Participant

    Big cog looks shot in the picture. Cassette and chain, check and unbend the RD hanger*, clean and lube the RD and wheels, Remove the brake pads, remove the brakes and pedals. ultrasonic tank the brakes and pedals if needed, blow them clean and dry with compressed air and re-lube while still hot from the tank. Pull the brake and shift cables, blow the housings out or replace and install new cables. Blow out the brifters and lube if able and needed. Feel the bottom bracket with everything else off and service if needed. Clean up the chain rings. Feel the headset and service as needed. Reassemble everything. Tune up the shifting and set the limits. Adjust the brakes. Easy peasy, two to three hours tops working in happy hobby mode.

    *evidence of a couple of good hits on the RD pivot.

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 40 total)
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