what does your cockpit look like? (Wireless computer/headlight interference)

[Geoff]

I have had similar problems with my Lumina 650 and wireless computer (don’t recall the brand without checking). They seem to get along with about 4″ separation.

[TwoWheelsDC]

Wrap your light in aluminum foil and see if that’s enough to help. Probably not, but it’s a cheap and easy experiment.

[hozn]

@TwoWheelsDC 78105 wrote:

Wrap your light in aluminum foil and see if that’s enough to help. Probably not, but it’s a cheap and easy experiment.

I’m not sure if that’s a good idea. These lights can get pretty hot and it seems like wrapping the light would prevent the heat sink fins from doing their job and dissipating the heat. I don’t know what the consequences of overheating are; I imagine in extreme cases you’ll kill the unit. I’ve also read that [hot] temperature affects LED brightness, but not sure if that applies here.

One thing that may be worth testing is whether moving the computer head unit in the Y plane (e.g. as if it were mounted to stem or off the front using a barfly) addresses the issue. That may solve the problem without requiring any adjustment to bar tape.

Otherwise, maybe pull the tape back half an inch; it looks like you are wrapping pretty close to the stem. I typically stop where the bar logos start (at least on the Ritchey bars I use), but I could see wanting a bit extra if you actually hold the bar up there.

[vvill]

I use “out-front” bar extenders on my main bikes as I do use the tops of dropbars quite a bit in my commutes. So my GPS/computer is mounted in front of the stem in those cases (it’s on my stem on my other bikes).

(I angle mine straight out, not on top like this.)

If you google “carbon handlebar extender” or similar you’ll see they’re fairly inexpensive on fleabay, etc. I have an aluminium one too, but this is the sort of thing where I imagine there is almost no risk to getting carbon, unless you want to clamp a really heavy light. You can get them in various lengths too.

I can fit two lights and my GPS mount on the longer of the bars I have, which I use on my CX bike in commuter mode. It also makes it easier to swap over stuff from bike to bike – less cable entanglement etc. I do keep my bell on my bar tops but that’s it.

[OneEighth]

@TwoWheelsDC 78105 wrote:

Wrap your light in aluminum foil and see if that’s enough to help. Probably not, but it’s a cheap and easy experiment.

Or just line the inside of your helmet with it.

[jabberwocky]

I have no issues with two lights flanking within an inch or so of my Garmin.

[hozn]

@jabberwocky 78125 wrote:

I have no issues with two lights flanking within an inch or so of my Garmin.

Yeah, no issues w/ Garmin. There must be something about the wireless frequencies that the Cateye uses (it’s not Ant+ for those [still], I don’t think.)

A quick google confirms that cateye wireless computers have EMI issues w/ lights (and not just NightRider lights).

[americancyclo]

@jabberwocky 78125 wrote:

I have no issues with two lights flanking within an inch or so of my Garmin.

Same here. No issues with my NiteRider 250 and my Garmin.

[vvill]

Yeah just to clarify I don’t have issues with my NiteRider + Garmin either, I was just suggesting a possible solution to give the OP some more space between devices.

[Geoff]

Concerning “no issues with Garmin”:
Some sensors / cycle computers use encoding to prevent interference from nearby riders. I suspect that Garmin does this, and is able to simply ignore the noise emitted by the light.

Or – doesn’t Garmin work off GPS signals rather than a sensor on the fork? In that case interference from the light is probably a completely different radio frequency from what the GPS uses and shouldn’t be expected to be a factor.

[paulg]

Hey thanks for posting this! I have Niterider Lumina 650 and cateye wireless computer and it’s been driving me nuts that the computer hasn’t been working recently. I even assumed the cold weather was responsible, or that the wheel mounted magnet had lost some oomph. I just didn’t think about the light.

Thanks for solving the mystery.

I just did a quick test and it seems the light in low and medium mode has to be 4.5″ away from the computer. But here’s a strange thing: When running at full light output there is no impact to the computer when placed side by side!

So solution: Run your light in full 650 (other trail users be dammned!) and your computer will work.

[mstone]

The interference comes from RF noise generated when the LED is rapidly cycled on and off to simulate a dimmer bulb. Older wireless cycling computers had a simple analog signal that got lost in that noise. Newer devices use a digital encoding that degrades in the presence of noise but typically doesn’t completely flake out. I think the cateye speed + cadence models have a digital transmitter, I don’t know if any of their speed-only ones do.

[americancyclo]

@Geoff 78146 wrote:

doesn’t Garmin work off GPS signals rather than a sensor on the fork? .

Garmin will pair via ANT+ with wireless sensors anywhere on the bike if they exist, and prefer those for speed. if they are not available, garmin will estimate speed based on GPS.

[brendan]

Light on helmet. Done.

[Author]

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