What Does A R. Herse Crankset Give The Buyer?

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 41 total)
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  • #1057355
    Raymo853
    Participant

    @hozn 146104 wrote:

    I am also curious about problems with larger than a 32t rear; I haven’t had any problems with a 36t rear cog, but that is the largest I have used. (Planning on 40/42, so should probably rethink if there are some significant drawbacks.)

    I’ll stop at five but bet I can think of more:

    • If you are in a rural location and break the rear derailleur, there are many more replacements available that can handle the biggest cog if it is 32 or less. And even more if it is 27 or less.
    • If you cross chain your drivetrain into the big-big, a bigger big rear cog increases the chance for damage.
    • Big rear cogs require longer chains. Not so concerned about weight but if the chain stays are touring bike long, normal replacement chains may not be long enough.
    • The longer chain required by a big rear cog makes it harder to use small-smaller gear combos as the derailleur may not be able to take up the slake.
    • The big cog cassettes are less common and often crazy expensive

    BTW, I am a big advocate to have your bike set up so big-big combos do not damage anything. I know the list of reasons you should never shift into that combo, but it happens.

    #1056863
    hozn
    Participant

    @Raymo853 146126 wrote:

    I’ll stop at five but bet I can think of more:

    • If you are in a rural location and break the rear derailleur, there are many more replacements available that can handle the biggest cog if it is 32 or less. And even more if it is 27 or less.
    • If you cross chain your drivetrain into the big-big, a bigger big rear cog increases the chance for damage.
    • Big rear cogs require longer chains. Not so concerned about weight but if the chain stays are touring bike long, normal replacement chains may not be long enough.
    • The longer chain required by a big rear cog makes it harder to use small-smaller gear combos as the derailleur may not be able to take up the slake.
    • The big cog cassettes are less common and often crazy expensive

    BTW, I am a big advocate to have your bike set up so big-big combos do not damage anything. I know the list of reasons you should never shift into that combo, but it happens.

    Yeah, I glossed over that you were describing a touring setup. In that case I’d agree that you probably want to stick with more standard equipment for serviceability.

    Obviously for 1x drivetrains “cross-chaining” is not something that can be avoided. I haven’t noticed any problems with my 46:36, but I don’t use it that often. Interesting point about chain length; I guess I’ll find out if a standard 114-116 link chain fits a 50:42 combo with a long-cage RD. (As for the penultimate point about small-small combos being less possible, this should be fine if you have a derailleur that wraps enough chain.) I don’t remember how many links I trimmed off the 116-link chain last time for the 46:36 (short-cage RD) setup; at least 4 but maybe not much more than that.

    Anyway, these aren’t worrisome for a dedicated 1x setup, but I’m sure I’d choose differently if building a touring machine.

    #1056827
    vvill
    Participant

    Ah, okay. Yeah for touring maybe not the best but I also would choose differently for touring. And if I were going with a wide range cassette I’d also go 1x – to me that’s half the point of having one. Otherwise a FD with 16-18T or so difference in the chainrings and a more normal cassette would be fine.

    I haven’t really had the urge to try 1x / wide cassette yet, although I do have older 1×9 and 1×10 set-ups, they both use more regular cassette spacings. I made my own chain retention device out of some hardware store parts.

    #1056795
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    @Raymo853 146126 wrote:

    • Big rear cogs require longer chains. Not so concerned about weight but if the chain stays are touring bike long, normal replacement chains may not be long enough.

    This would only be a concern if you’re trying to run a 52T outer and >40T cog.

    Although the idea of a touring bike is fun to fart around with on paper, I just don’t see the point of trying to keep gear inches near 53×11. Go with low gears. Being spun-out cadence-wise at 40+ mph is no big deal on a touring bike. Just coast and enjoy the scenery!!! At those speeds, I’d be more worried about adequate brakes than whether I need to turn 100+ rpms so I can make 42mph rather than 39mph…

    And let’s be honest, too – the last time I felt 34T x 30T (which, btw, is the biggest cog you can fit on “normal,” “new,” road derailleurs with some b-tension screw fiddling) was insufficient was at Hilly Billy Roubaix. 50-34 plus 11-32 should be plenty for loaded touring unless you plan on riding 20% grades all day long.

    #1056768
    vvill
    Participant

    @Harry Meatmotor 146201 wrote:

    Although the idea of a touring bike is fun to fart around with on paper, I just don’t see the point of trying to keep gear inches near 53×11. Go with low gears. Being spun-out cadence-wise at 40+ mph is no big deal on a touring bike. Just coast and enjoy the scenery!!! At those speeds, I’d be more worried about adequate brakes than whether I need to turn 100+ rpms so I can make 42mph rather than 39mph…

    And let’s be honest, too – the last time I felt 34T x 30T (which, btw, is the biggest cog you can fit on “normal,” “new,” road derailleurs with some b-tension screw fiddling) was insufficient was at Hilly Billy Roubaix. 50-34 plus 11-32 should be plenty for loaded touring unless you plan on riding 20% grades all day long.

    Agreed on not needing a top end like that.

    I also ran 34-30 at HBR (and Mountains of Misery actually). In both cases it was sufficient, but not ideal. 32 in the back would’ve been nicer.

    #1056771
    ian74
    Participant

    @vvill 146030 wrote:

    There is certainly a segment of the cycling community that loves the classic look/function of things like full metal fenders, handlebar mounted canvas bags, tan sidewalls, sprung leather saddles and matching bar tape, shiny chrome/silver parts, etc. as opposed to light aggressive racing carbon frames, deep dish wheels, etc.

    I don’t know when, how or why this happened but this is me now. I still am looking for the perfect canvas handlebar bag, and have my eyes on some new Compass Barlow Pass gumwalls for the Marrakesh.

    I also want a pair of Berthoud panniers but can absolutely no way in hell justify the price. BUT LOOK AT THEM https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/bags/berthoud-classic-panniers/

    I’m big on style points.

    #1056773
    huskerdont
    Participant

    Those do look nice, but yeah, that price is ridiculous. I’d like a more stylish backpack, perhaps (I’ve never had panniers), but it looks like they don’t do backpacks, and the Banjo Brothers $85 price point is more my “style” anyway.

    #1056753
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    @ian74 146231 wrote:

    I don’t know when, how or why this happened but this is me now. I still am looking for the perfect canvas handlebar bag, and have my eyes on some new Compass Barlow Pass gumwalls for the Marrakesh.

    I also want a pair of Berthoud panniers but can absolutely no way in hell justify the price. BUT LOOK AT THEM https://www.compasscycle.com/shop/components/bags/berthoud-classic-panniers/

    I’m big on style points.

    seriously, that site is the Fairwheel Bikes of retrogrouchiness.

    The least expensive bottle cage is SIXTY-FREAKING-DOLLARS.

    #1056733
    ian74
    Participant

    @Harry Meatmotor 146248 wrote:

    seriously, that site is the Fairwheel Bikes of retrogrouchiness.

    The least expensive bottle cage is SIXTY-FREAKING-DOLLARS.

    Yeah, but you DID see the description right?

    The best bottle cage in the world: It grips securely and rattle-free on all roads, yet your bottle is easy to retrieve and insert. Light weight and beauty are an added bonus. They last forever, too.”

    It’s the best bottle cage in the world. IN THE WORLD. Lasting forever is just an added bonus.

    #1056734
    bentbike33
    Participant

    @ian74 146261 wrote:

    Yeah, but you DID see the description right?

    The best bottle cage in the world: It grips securely and rattle-free on all roads, yet your bottle is easy to retrieve and insert. Light weight and beauty are an added bonus. They last forever, too.”

    It’s the best bottle cage in the world. IN THE WORLD. Lasting forever is just an added bonus.

    It’s got to be the TRUMP Bottle Cage.*

    #1056742
    hozn
    Participant

    @Harry Meatmotor 146248 wrote:

    seriously, that site is the Fairwheel Bikes of retrogrouchiness.

    The least expensive bottle cage is SIXTY-FREAKING-DOLLARS.

    And it is steel and weighs 52g !? That is more than my Performance Bike stainless steel cages.

    Now a King cage has at least a little more justification charging that sort of price. (Titanium)

    #1056702
    BobCochran
    Participant


    Cost to retailer of actual bottle cage: USD $1.00
    Estimated unitized cost of advertising of bottle cage: USD $0.25
    Estimated unitized cost of storing bottle cage inventory: USD $0.75
    Estimated net profit, per bottle cage sold: USD $58.00

    And who looks closely at bottle cages, anyhow?

    Bob

    #1056706
    vvill
    Participant

    @ian74 146261 wrote:

    Yeah, but you DID see the description right?

    The best bottle cage in the world: It grips securely and rattle-free on all roads, yet your bottle is easy to retrieve and insert. Light weight and beauty are an added bonus. They last forever, too.”

    It’s the best bottle cage in the world. IN THE WORLD. Lasting forever is just an added bonus.

    HIGH-PERFORMANCE PARTS for REAL-WORLD RIDING

    we’re all riding in the fake world. with lo-fi parts.

    #1056707
    peterw_diy
    Participant

    Real-world riding: second place on a 360mi self supported race on unpaved roads, with a 2×5 freewheel setup and, yes, that crankset:

    https://www.cxmagazine.com/gravel-grinder-bike-jan-heine-oregon-outback-360-2014

    Keep that in mind when you read his “all roads” description. :-)

    #1056715
    vvill
    Participant

    @peterw_diy 146280 wrote:

    Real-world riding: second place on a 360mi self supported race on unpaved roads, with a 2×5 freewheel setup and, yes, that crankset:

    https://www.cxmagazine.com/gravel-grinder-bike-jan-heine-oregon-outback-360-2014

    Keep that in mind when you read his “all roads” description. :-)

    I have a lot of respect for Jan Heine and enjoy reading his stuff (and Bicycle Quarterly in general). I would love to try some Compass tires – only partly for the ride quality (I almost always take a photo of them when I see them on a fellow rider’s bike).

    Just think the marketing is laying it on a bit thick, although that can be true for the whole cycling industry.

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