Tubeless Blowout Overnight?

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Viewing 10 posts - 16 through 25 (of 25 total)
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  • #1076949
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @bentbike33 166721 wrote:

    These things have worked really well for me on holes in tubeless tires (in my case, Schwalbe Pro-1 28mm) that are too big for the sealant to handle. I carry this kit on rides along with a small bottle of sealant in case of a really bad puncture.

    Same, although I use a Dynaplug Racer. I used it with my two big tubeless punctures, but both were pretty big and awkwardly shaped. The more circular one plugged okay, but still leaked enough air that I didn’t feel comfortable relying on it for long rides (I maybe could’ve solved this by adding sealant, which was mostly lost when the tire punctured, but ultimately I just decided to replace the tire). The other puncture was big and triangle shaped and I just couldn’t get it to hold air above about 35psi, even with two plugs. Fine for getting home, but not as a long-term fix.

    #1076952
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    My point being for commuting is more that I don’t feel like bringing more stuff (plug kit, more sealant) that isn’t nearly guaranteed to work. The other reason I’m not sold for commuting is in the odd case that the bead becomes unseated, I’m potentially looking at a pile of wasted CO2 cartridges on the side of the trail when the bead won’t seat. Or do I bring a charge-style pump now, too?

    Setting/resetting up tubeless is pretty painless in a shop; is mildly messy at home; isn’t something I want to futz with on the side of a trail in the dark.

    As for CX – burping is pretty common, judging by my and my teammates’ experiences over the last couple seasons. Losing 5psi isn’t a huge problem. It’s losing 5psi after that because the tire is already low. At Hub Labels this year I was practically riding the rim on the front wheel by the time I finished. At Bikenetic Dirt Crit I burped almost all the air in the rear and I had to drop out of top 5. If I race CX next season, I think I’ll be making the jump to tubs.

    #1076953
    hozn
    Participant

    @Harry Meatmotor 166727 wrote:

    My point being for commuting is more that I don’t feel like bringing more stuff (plug kit, more sealant) that isn’t nearly guaranteed to work. The other reason I’m not sold for commuting is in the odd case that the bead becomes unseated, I’m potentially looking at a pile of wasted CO2 cartridges on the side of the trail when the bead won’t seat. Or do I bring a charge-style pump now, too?

    Setting/resetting up tubeless is pretty painless in a shop; is mildly messy at home; isn’t something I want to futz with on the side of a trail in the dark.

    Oh, yeah, I don’t think anyone would bother carrying sealant and re-seating a tubeless tire on the side of the road (or the mtb trail, for that matter). If putting a plug in it doesn’t fix the problem and let you just add some more air and continue the ride, then you put in a tube. A set of plugs is tiny and usually lasts for years and if that means not having to take a tire off on the side of the trail, then it’s more than worth it for me. (And so far the only time I’ve had to put in a tube on the “commuter” bike was that weird too-large-to-be-plugged puncture riding through Pimmit Run Stream Valley the other week.)

    #1076958
    dplasters
    Participant

    @hozn 166703 wrote:

    You sure you pumped it up hard enough? Some tires, especially with tubes on tubeless rims, will not snap their beads out of the center channel until pressure gets quite high. (You can then lower it down to something sane after they snap in.) Also try spraying the beads with soapy water or furniture polish.

    I took it above the pressure that caused it to fail before. Stopped at 85psi after inflating/deflating 3 times and gave up on it.

    For those running tubeless on commuters – what is your schedule for topping up sealant?

    #1076961
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    @dplasters 166733 wrote:

    I took it above the pressure that caused it to fail before. Stopped at 85psi after inflating/deflating 3 times and gave up on it.

    For those running tubeless on commuters – what is your schedule for topping up sealant?

    Most sealant manufacturers recommend replacing/scrubbing out old sealant every 6 months or twice a season-ish. Yearly is what I would recommend at a minimum.

    #1076963
    Vicegrip
    Participant

    @huskerdont 166708 wrote:

    You people are seriously not helping in my long, slow process of considering switching to tubeless. Or maybe you are, and I’ll stick with tubes.

    Here too. I want to try tubeless. 1/2 out of basic gadget geek and 1/2 out of people going on and on about the ride and flat protection. OTOH the needs mandated by tubeless don’t fit my cycling maintenance format* well. I would not bother to change the sealant and the like. A spare tube, a couple of patches, levers and a little rocket pump will get me out of 99% of tire failures in short order and no goo. Like Hozn I too hate winter flats and tend to run only full tread tires in the sloppy season.

    *Clean fresh chains often and a new rear tire when it starts to square off and clean the pads now and then. The rest? Feh, it will tell me when.

    #1076964
    TwoWheelsDC
    Participant

    @Vicegrip 166738 wrote:

    Here too. I want to try tubeless. 1/2 out of basic gadget geek and 1/2 out of people going on and on about the ride and flat protection. .

    The geek factor is big for me. And maybe this is just my imagination, but my tubeless tires/wheels give off kind of a gentle road noise hum when rolling that my tubed wheels/tires never had and that I find soothing, and is a reminder that there’s just that much less rubber between me and the road.

    #1076966
    Harry Meatmotor
    Participant

    @TwoWheelsDC 166739 wrote:

    The geek factor is big for me. And maybe this is just my imagination, but my tubeless tires/wheels give off kind of a gentle road noise hum when rolling that my tubed wheels/tires never had and that I find soothing, and is a reminder that there’s just that much less rubber between me and the road.

    Oh! If that’s your thing, let me try to convince you to run open tubular clinchers with latex tubes. You will feel the magic carpet ride and hear beautiful noises.

    #1076967
    hozn
    Participant

    @Harry Meatmotor 166741 wrote:

    Oh! If that’s your thing, let me try to convince you to run open tubular clinchers with latex tubes. You will feel the magic carpet ride and hear beautiful noises.

    I think it’s true that latex + open tubs will probably be as good — or better — a ride than a Schwalbe Pro One tubeless. (I wonder about the ride of a tire like the S-Works turbo tubeless; IIRC those roll faster than the open tubulars tested?) I briefly rode Vittora Open Corsa CX tires, which felt fantastic, but I wanted a more durable tire for my rides, so switched back to GP4000S tires.

    I haven’t ridden them back to back in any sort of scientific way, but I don’t think I can feel the difference between a 25mm Schwalbe Pro One and 25mm Conti GP4000S II w/ latex tubes. But the tubeless Schwalbes last a lot longer and flat less, so I’ll keep using them. Now when Conti finally offers a RT option, I’ll be first among the first in line to try it.

    #1076969
    hozn
    Participant

    Oooh, I missed this 28mm S-Works being released https://www.specialized.com/us/en/equipment/components/sworks-turbo-2bliss-ready/130701 ! — That looks like the next tire I’ll try on my road bike.

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