Suggest a fixed gear for me

[TwoWheelsDC]

@jrenaut 91056 wrote:

So, I was thinking of all the parts I’d have to buy if I went frame-only, and then I remembered I have my old Giant. The frame is toast (aluminum frames generally don’t handle being hit by cars very well), but the bike only had about 2100 miles on it. How much could I salvage from that?

Brakes, brake hoods/shifters (you can use “brifters” on a FG, you just don’t run shifter cables), bars, stem, seatpost, saddle, front wheel, tires, tubes. At a minimum, you’d need a SS/FG-specific rear wheel (with a FG/SS hub), crankset, and bottom bracket. Perhaps there’s some way to use a double chainring on a FG/SS frame, but I think it would screw up your chain line. You’d also have to make sure that your carryover parts match the sizing of the frame you choose (1″ vs 1 1/8″ stem or 27.2mm vs 31.6mm seatpost, for example) Going for the cheaper components, rear wheel builds are like $125, cranksets are like $100, and bottom bracket is maybe $25, depending on what you choose, of course.

[jrenaut]

So we’re looking at $300 for various non-frame components even if you go on the cheap side. Sounds like for my first one I’d be better off getting a complete bike, either cheapo online or used locally. If I fall in love with fixed then I can build a new one from parts.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@jrenaut 91063 wrote:

So we’re looking at $300 for various non-frame components even if you go on the cheap side. Sounds like for my first one I’d be better off getting a complete bike, either cheapo online or used locally. If I fall in love with fixed then I can build a new one from parts.

That’s what I did.

[dcv]

this should fit you http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/bik/4585329142.html

[dcv]

this too! http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/bik/4585065019.html

[vvill]

@TwoWheelsDC 91065 wrote:

That’s what I did.

Same, sort of. Actually I started off with just converting a hybrid to SS, which was more or less free since I used the rear derailleur as a chain tensioner. Then I bought a rear eccentric wheel off craigslist for $100 to try fixed (as well as single chainring bolts, and swapped in a single 48t ring – chainline worked fine on the existing triple crankset), then gradually changed it to how it is now. Total costs were <$300.

[jrenaut]

Whoa, DCV, I thought we were looking for cheap ones. Those are almost a new Pista.

[ShawnoftheDread]

@jrenaut 91084 wrote:

Whoa, DCV, I thought we were looking for cheap ones. Those are almost a new Pista.

But much cooler. Especially the Waterford.

[americancyclo]

@dcv 91068 wrote:

this should fit you http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/bik/4585329142.html

This looks similar to the one at Bikenetic. Jan recommended against using this bike as a city bike unless you hate your bones. Track bike is for track.

[Greenbelt]

Not fixed gear, obviously (I’m too old for that I think), but this is by far the funnest bike I’ve been riding lately:

[DismalScientist]

When I first did my conversion of my 70’s Fuji, I just “needed” a rear wheel. I used the inner chainring of the double that came with the bike. Since I had horizontal dropouts, I didn’t need a tensioner. Oh yea… I bought a new chain.

Actually, I bought a wheelset, but had to use the old front axle in the front wheel since the fork wouldn’t take a bolt-on axle.
Later, I put in a sealed bottom bracket and single crankset. I think I paid $17 for the crank from Niagara Cycle.

Since I bought the bike for $75, I think I’ve only put a little over $200 into the rig.

P.S. Old 10 speeds have 120 mm spacing and 12 and 14 speeds have 126 mm spacing.

[vvill]

@americancyclo 91091 wrote:

This looks similar to the one at Bikenetic. Jan recommended against using this bike as a city bike unless you hate your bones. Track bike is for track.

Yeah I have to say, FG riding can be really hard on your… sit areas. Next time I do a bike selfie I’ll make sure I’m not leaning forward approaching any bumps in the road. I’m going to change to a 25mm or wider rear tire soon (23mm came stock), and probably get a carbon seat post. Owwwies.

[vvill]

@Greenbelt 91093 wrote:

Not fixed gear, obviously (I’m too old for that I think), but this is by far the funnest bike I’ve been riding lately:

Love it! I’d probably still want dropbars though, I’m a stickler for those. Maybe some nice flared ones.

And I feel like fixed gear is actually easier than SS in terms of power output. The bike rides itself, in a way – you just have to keep the pedals turning.

[Steve]

I just have two quick FG questions:

1. Why is chainline so important? Is it for the slowing the bike via pedals aspect of FG riding? I mean I understand why it would be optimal to have a straight line, but geared bikes are constantly ridden without a straight chainline, so I just don’t understand why it seems so necessary.
2. Why is tension so important? Same reasons as question 1.

I ask these two questions despite having owned a FG a few years back. Shows what I knew when I bought that! But it was only $200 and loads of fun, and I could use it to run errands without being nearly as afraid of it getting stolen. I had to sell it because apartment living doesn’t always support my n+1 desires, and I wanted a geared bike that took a rack and fenders for commuting. That bike has D/T shifters, so I think it’s a close second .

As an aside, this thread could result in my divorce.

[TwoWheelsDC]

@Steve 91116 wrote:

I just have two quick FG questions:

1. Why is chainline so important? Is it for the slowing the bike via pedals aspect of FG riding? I mean I understand why it would be optimal to have a straight line, but geared bikes are constantly ridden without a straight chainline, so I just don’t understand why it seems so necessary.
2. Why is tension so important? Same reasons as question 1.

I ask these two questions despite having owned a FG a few years back. Shows what I knew when I bought that! But it was only $200 and loads of fun, and I could use it to run errands without being nearly as afraid of it getting stolen. I had to sell it because apartment living doesn’t always support my n+1 desires, and I wanted a geared bike that took a rack and fenders for commuting. That bike has D/T shifters, so I think it’s a close second .

As an aside, this thread could result in my divorce.

I think there are two issues with chain line, although I don’t claim super expertise….first, the straighter the chain line, the more efficient the drivetrain and the less wear on components. I think since FG/SS chainrings and cogs are “straight” (no ramps or funky teeth to aid shifting) they wear faster if the chain line isn’t straight. Second, my understanding is that 1/8″ chains don’t have the lateral flexibility of 3/32″ chains, so they don’t deal well with deviation from a straight line. I assume this would make chain line less of an issue for those running a 3/32″ setup.

Tension is important because you can drop your chain if it’s too loose or bind your drivetrain if it’s too tight. If the chain is too tight, it’ll create drag on your drivetrain and can cause premature wear in your rear hub. I think anywhere between those two extremes is largely a matter of personal preference though. Personally, I like my chain just loose enough to not bind, and tight enough to minimize “flex” in the chain.

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