Small rim cracks

[Harry Meatmotor]

@hozn 91413 wrote:

snip… I typically build the MTB rims to 100kgf but that still is a lot less than I’d like. ..snip

yeah – that’s definitely wet noodle territory imho, but keep in mind that’s what most machine-built wheels are built to, too.

[hozn]

@Harry Meatmotor 91422 wrote:

yeah – that’s definitely wet noodle territory imho, but keep in mind that’s what most machine-built wheels are built to, too.

I just looked over their chart (http://www.notubes.com/literature/ztr_rim_specifications.pdf) and see that if I build with the “EX” Arch or Flow rims (my few sets of wheels have all just been regular Arch or Crest rims), then I can go up to a decent tension. I’ll definitely bear that in mind when I need to build new MTB wheels. I’ll keep beating up the ones I have in the meantime.

[americancyclo]

Looks like I’m in this situation now too. Just noticed a skipping noise on my front wheel, and it seems to have a small crack in the brake track. I’ll be stopping by bikenetic tonight on the way home (and probably riding the beater bike for the next few days). Any recommendations for replacement of a 2009 Ultegra SL wheel? I think the hub is fine, but when Jan rebuilt my rear wheel, he said it was a PITA to relace those hubs.

Should I replace the whole wheel? Trying to minimize cost as it comes out of my N+1 budget.

[Harry Meatmotor]

@americancyclo 93230 wrote:

Looks like I’m in this situation now too. Just noticed a skipping noise on my front wheel, and it seems to have a small crack in the brake track. I’ll be stopping by bikenetic tonight on the way home (and probably riding the beater bike for the next few days). Any recommendations for replacement of a 2009 Ultegra SL wheel? I think the hub is fine, but when Jan rebuilt my rear wheel, he said it was a PITA to relace those hubs.

Should I replace the whole wheel? Trying to minimize cost as it comes out of my N+1 budget.

I agree with the notion that Shimano prebuilt wheels, in general, are difficult to rebuild. They’re not impossible, but definitely more trouble than a typical j-bend spoke wheel. It’d certainly be less headache for a mechanic to just replace the whole wheel, obviously, but you might gain some longevity by buying a wheel that uses more common spokes/spoke nipples/lacing pattern than the prebuilt Shimanos.

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